33 replies to this topic

[djshongo]

thanks a lot mate!!

is this a difficult job?!

[MiniBonkerz]

more fiddly than anything else i had a quote to get the job done if i supplied that parts and a garage thats resonable wanted £204+vat so needless to say i did it myself and got a great sence of achivement if you get real stuck on anything give me a shout on pm and i will give you my mobile number

[djshongo]

£204+vat thats a rip off!

I'll get the parts ordered 2day i think, gona try the motor factors here, if not i'll go to mini spares.
I'll give it a go myself, never tried balljoints before!

[MiniBonkerz]

its all fun and you learn about your car at the same time i enjoyed it i also had to cut tiebars out that had well and truly seized in but it was fun

[djshongo]

Yea it'll pass some time getting to know how to fix the car i guess lol

so, would i need either of these?

SWIVEL PIN KIT(does not include grease nipples)BALL JOINT

or

mini sport ball joint kit

[MiniBonkerz]

either will be fine you can use the old grease nipples but for the price of them its worth adding the the basket

[IainR]

Order extra shims of varying thicknesses, you only get a few with the kit.

[djshongo]

gona order two of those ball joints later 2nt, with an extra set of grease nipples, and a few extra shims, thanks for the tips!

looking at it again seems like the bolt has snapped in two, and wont come out, may have to get it drilled out!? Half of the bolt looks to be inside the balljoint itself, the other half stuck at the end of the bar which attaches to the balljoint (wishbone?).

Also, removing the balljoint itself, is it held on by a bracket and bolt, cause thats all i see keeping it in place. Attached to the hub.

cheers

[Boycie]

It's not a bolt, it's the pin that makes up half of the balljoint itself.

Because it's broken, you should be able to get it out of the arm by undoing the nut and tapping it out with a hammer.

I must say, they only shear like this for a few reasons- 1) cheap balljoint kit that fractures, 2) worn/ showing excessive play or 3) not greased for ages and seized.

[MiniBonkerz]

theres a metal locking tab that will need to be bent back flat then you can remove the dome nut as for the bolt in the arm use some molegrips and a breaker bar with socket on plenty of wd40 and it should pop out like i said any probs you can call me i can even call you back if you need

[djshongo]

oh so its not really a threaded blot is it, its a thick pin? That prob makes more sense!

Yea good idea, i should be able to use grips and get a hold of the nut, the soak in WD40 and whack that end out! The end thats inside the balljoint makes no diff anyway cause its being replaced right?

I watched that YouTube vid also, very good, and i can see thet locking tab ur on about. didnt see the dom enut tho, altho i'll get a closer look this evening.

Might have to take u up on that offer if i get stuck MiniBonkerz lol Thanks!!

[Boycie]

That youtube video is good, although I like to set them just a little tighter..

because you have disk brakes djshongo, the job is a lot easier, no need to bleed brakes etc when you remove the hub.

On the subject of adjustment (shims) don't be worried if you have to spend ages getting them 'just right'. It's a job that requires patience and you really don't want the new balljoint to be running 'slack' or indeed over tight. Oh, make sure you have a grease gun too

[djshongo]

Damn i have to buy a grease-gun aswell

Is it necessary to remove the hub also?

[Boycie]

I think a seasoned mechanic can do it on the car, but it's not really worth the hassle.. it's much easier to take the hub off the car (as per the video) and easier to torque the balljoint domed nut up. This is especially important as a loose domed nut has the same affect as a balljoint snapping.

Only a few more bolts to undo to be honest, and the whole hub is out.

[djshongo]

ok thanks Boycie, i'll take the hub off too, time to get the old Haynes manual out 2nite lol :8