25 replies to this topic

[micrawavewindow]

hi i have a fli active 1000w 12 inch sub and for some reason it does not sound that good that is with all the setting and gain and stuff setup properly. i wanted the floor to shake and it dont. and the guy at my audio shop said that the sub is to big for the little boot. sound wrong but what can i do

[shorty]

start an ice thread where you can ask all these problems maybe

12 inch isnt to big i would of though, what amp are you using?

[micrawavewindow]

is this not the ice section?
the amp is built in to the sub so not really sure what it is but i think its a good sub and amp setup
i know it win any competions i just really want to rock the floor lol chav style

[shorty]

yeh it is but meant start like an ice project sorry

can you headunit cope with the power needed?
are any of the wires running along side each other as i know with the power wires and some other wires disturbance can be caused.
does it sound bad when boot is open aswell as closed?

[micrawavewindow]

funny thing is it sound really good in the car but when i get out there is not alot of sound (strange) my wires are ran straight from the batterie and the other wires run down the centre of the car. it sounds pretty good inside just not outside . i have had the same sub in another car and it vibrated the floor setting off alarms but this one doesnt and my new head unit is an xplod one with built in amp 4x50 on the front so should be ok i think

i am not really into my ice but just want a really loud system so i cant here the road noise lol

[Rich.]

Sounds good to me!!

You want to keep as much of tthe sound inside the car, otherwise you have less pressure and therefor less volume inside the car.

You say it sounds really good from the inside and you just want it to be louder than the road noise? So two things, why do you care what it sounds like from outside and secondly soundproofing, it will make a hell of a lot more difference than just turning your speakers up!!

If you really don't think its running how it should be there's a few possible causes. Lack of power to the amp, make sure the electrics are up to powering it and the cable is of a thick enough guage. Amp setup, gain and hpf set correctly?? If its loud but no bass then you probably have the hpf set wrong. Finally you might be expecting too much, remember the amp is now in a pretty much sealed boot now as opposed to blasting at the back of your ears. In theory bass isn't directional so it shouldn't matter providing there are some ports in the parcel shelf to let the air move, however in reality its always going to be better sat on your rear seat!!

Rich

[skaterava]

You might be better off buying a smaller sub and mounting it inside the cabin itself.

Edited by skaterava, 08 April 2010 - 12:44 AM.

[Bungle]

how is the noise getting from the boot into the cabin ?

[pbrain]

sorry to burst your bubble, but your 1000w FLI active sub is actually around 100-150w (and that's being optimistic). check out the fuse on the box and times that by 12, this will give you it's max wattage. ie a single 30A fuse X 12v = 360w max before fuse pops. These FLI all-in-1 boxes are OK for lightwork and adding sub frequencies to a HU, but if you want powerful bass then at a budget you'll want a 200wRMS mono amp + 10"+ sub with a similar rating. When you start going over this power range, then things like decent cable, farad caps come into play...if you want extreme then alternator upgrades and extra batteries are essential.

[Rich.]

Im running a 10" Rockford Fosgate punch sub and matching amp with a pair of Rockford punch components of the front channels of the amp. I havnt fired it up yet but my subs in the rear parcel shelf, if it dosnt make enough bass then im just going to stick an enclosure behind it with some bass tubes through the parcel shef and into the box. My subs only 150w RMS, you will find most of the more expensive range are, unless there the competition subs, yet my sub will blow away most of my friends mutent and fli subs and the like with are apparently 1000w.

Rich

[micrawavewindow]

my sub reckons its 300watt rms but anywho there is nothing at the moment in the way of holes coming from the boot into the car as my 6x9s are mounted in the back shelf. shouls i cut some more holes or should i cut some holes behind the seats as noone ever sits in the back and as for sound proofing my car is well sound deadened with dinamat and the foam and then thick foam backed carpet. everywhere that can be deadened is and i am just waitin on my new dash to add more deadening behind that thanks for all the replies.
the reason i bought that sub was because it was very very cheap and i was not really that bothered but now i just want more(always the case i find) but as i have no more money to spend that is hat i will live with cheers again neil

[-scott-]

It is because Fli subs don't have a port on them. Because mini boots are sealed you need a ported one so it uses the mini's boot as a bigger box. The bloke is my local audio shop was telling me about it.

I have a 10" Edge sub with a built in amp and a port. 750w max and 250w rms and it vibrates the hell out of my car. I have had to put cardboard in between the boot floor and the subframe because it vibrates so much!

Edited by -scott-, 08 April 2010 - 09:34 AM.

[wassupcrew]

having the 6*9's in the parcel shelf and a sub in the boot is a big problem. the air being moved by the sub will interfere with t he speakers which will cause problems. move the 6*9's under the back seat and it should sound better

[minimk1cooper850]

Id mount a 8inch sub in tthe back shelf, ORRRRRR one either side at the rear (in the pockets at the rear)
that would make you shake abit!

[skaterava]

Id mount a 8inch sub in tthe back shelf

I'm planning to fit a pair of 8 inch subs (200W RMS each) on my shelf today