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Diy Cone Compression Tool


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#1 trafficface09

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:07 PM

can anyone tell me the unf thread and size of a cone compresion tool.

can i get a threded bar and weld a leverage handle on-top?

#2 Pigeonto

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 09:11 PM

yours must be the older type if it has unified thread. I am 90% sure it was 1/2 "UNF . Mine is 14mm std pitch. I made a compressor with threaded bar but I dont think you would compress the cone by leverage. I just used a length of steel tube long enough to be up away from the scuttle panel,say 12" and a washer on top, then a nut to suit the threaded bar and just wind down the nut to where you need to compress to, LITTLE AS POSS though. Will need a plate under the tube to spread the load or you'll damage the crossmember

#3 Kam

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 09:28 PM

I am 90% sure it was 1/2 "UNF . Mine is 14mm std pitch


Make that 100%

http://www.minispares.com/Search.aspx

And if you fancy a read

http://savetheminis....one-compressor/

Hth

#4 trafficface09

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 09:42 PM

thanks guys, good read sounds good to me

#5 MRA

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 10:09 PM

However, don't forget your safety equipment, and if you choose to not use the correct process a new set of fingers :) do not look over the puller when it is in tension, if it chooses that particular time to "let go" then it can do a lot of body damage, yours not the car :P

Do not put your fingers anywhere you wouldn't put your............ well hopefully you get my drift here it really can be a dangerous job if not done correctly.... and if you think it won't happen to you ? then go and have a look in the local casualty department.

#6 dklawson

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 12:58 AM

All good advice above.

In addition to which I will add that if you shop around you will find different grades of steel used for the threaded rod. Buy the material with the highest tensile strength, not the cheapest material. Buy several nuts for the rod at the same time. Rather than weld a T handle to the rod, fit two nuts to the "top" of the threaded rod and one mid-length. Jam the two nuts at the top together and turn the lower jam nut with a long wrench. You'll have more leverage than the T handle and you will be more to the side instead of "over" the assembly.

It is unlikely you will want to put the old cones back in so buy a length of the 14mm rod (and nuts) at the same time (along with new cones). When taking the old cones out, make life easier and safer for you. Make sure the threaded rod (and washers) are well lubricated and start compressing the cone while the car is still standing on its wheels. After you have applied a bit of tension, stop and jack the car up. The weight of the car will have assisted you a bit with compressing the old cone.

#7 minidaves

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 05:48 AM

also heard the other day there is a cheapo cone compressor out there and the threads got striped off whilst in use (ouch) to compress the cone is alot of force and if something lets go, it dont half accelerate, as its like a big bouncing ball under 1/4tonne of presure and your fingers aint gonna stop it

dave

#8 robtheplod

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 06:16 AM

Is it worth making one?? Seems to be far more sensible to use the correct tool....... If you're in a mini club you could probably borrow one??

Edited by robtheplod, 14 April 2010 - 06:17 AM.


#9 datsun100a

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 06:24 AM

I would use the correct tool, I would doubt you will be able to locate a threaded bar of the correct tensile strength.

#10 stickycreambun

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 10:30 AM

PM your way!

#11 trafficface09

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 04:03 PM

thanks to sticky cream bun for offering to lend me his tool :thumbsup:

ok so i think i better revise the procedure alot before i start, sounds like the most dangerous thing i will have to do.

i will probably look through the Haynes manual but just so i know, once the cone is compressed is it safe to remove, and how do i put the new high-low trumpet in

anyway thanks all

#12 Ethel

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 04:14 PM

The captive nut on the rubber cone is likely to be the weakest link. The tool's advantages are a clearance groove for grotty threads and a proper thread for doing the compressing.

I'm sure Sticky will give you the low down when you get your hands on his tool, but don't lubricate the end before inserting it!

#13 trafficface09

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 04:26 PM

why does that a bit sexually orientated, oh im so immature

#14 MRA

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 06:31 PM

That's because the statement has conotations within that area :thumbsup:

#15 trafficface09

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Posted 15 April 2010 - 11:10 PM

im sharp as a tac ha ha cheers guys i will let you know how it goes




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