23 replies to this topic

[kells65row]

City 1000 (was running fine) now fitted with a 1275 (will not fire)
City is 1986 - the 1275 is out of a 1979 1275GT (Pedigree unknown)

Prior to dropping in the 1275 - I did check the bore to make sure the 1275 was standard - it appears so, new head gasket, valves were seating fine so left alone, torqued down and re-set roacker to valve clearance 12 thou.
Starter motor transfered from 1000.
Heated inlet (left cold) with HS4, K&N and new needle.
New LCB straight link to single box RC40.

Have substituted the following from the 1000 just to try to get things going -
HS4
Dizzy cap + leads
Coil + lead
Points and condenser.

There is a spark at all four plug leads.

Timing - Static, set the points to just opening (using a lamp between the coil -ve and earth i.e lamp just coming on) at both 13 BTDC and about 8 BTDC i.e flywheel numbers ahead of 0 (on the left).
There is fuel in the carb reservoir.

All suggestions welcome.
Cheers

try spraying easy start into the carb if it starts you then know that it is a fuel problem

Cheers - Down to the car shop tomorrow.

[kells65row]

where are you based?

Somerset, Cheddar.

[kells65row]

Is the dizzy set up correctly? 180 deg out?

I think it is correct. Followed the Haynes instructions, re Cylinder 4 valves rocking then continuing to turn the engine until the timing marks appear in the clutch housing and the notch on the pully on the front of the engine was also visible on the appropriate timing mark on the timing cover. Rotor was pointing to #1 quadrant and I then used a bulb across the points to adjust the dizzy until the light just came on when the timing marks were on 8 degrees. Have also tried it on 13 degrees.
I will however check it yet again tomorrow.
Cheers

[Yoda]

Followed the Haynes instructions, re Cylinder 4 valves rocking

this might be your problem, the timing needs to be set at X degrees (13 on standard 1275) BTDC on number 1 (nearest the fan) not number 4 cylinder.

[dklawson]

Just to clarify this (and it is important), there is a big difference between how some texts reference this and what to look for.

"Valves Rocking" means that both valves are "open" and you can tell this by looking at their rocker arms. One arm will appear to be a little "up" the other a little "down".
"Rocker arms Loose" (my preferred description) is when you can grab both rocker arms and move them a little. This means the valves are fully closed.

For static timing (and dizzy placement determination) you want the piston for cylinder #1 (radiator end) near the top of its stroke (look through the spark plug hole). At this condition you will find:
1) Cylinder #1's valves will NOT be rocking,
2) Cylinder #1's rocker arms will be loose (you can move them by hand),
3) Cylinder #4's valves WILL be rocking,
4) Cylinder #4's rocker arms will be TIGHT (you CANNOT move them).

I generally set the timing to 8 BTDC for a restart condition as it's easy cranking on the starter. Final timing with a light is set later when the engine is up to temperature.

[Yoda]

Excellent description. I actually found a haynes manual and looked it up after seeing this comment. If read fully then it makes perfect sense. Being old school in my way of thinking, maybe i spoke too soon, but if taken as rocking, ie loose then there would definitely be an issue in starting.

I like the idea of starting at 8 degrees static and then getting the timing strobed to the correct setting. At least it would be drivable and shouldn't be an issue driving to the garage or a mate with a strobe..

[kells65row]

Just to clarify this (and it is important), there is a big difference between how some texts reference this and what to look for.

"Valves Rocking" means that both valves are "open" and you can tell this by looking at their rocker arms. One arm will appear to be a little "up" the other a little "down".
"Rocker arms Loose" (my preferred description) is when you can grab both rocker arms and move them a little. This means the valves are fully closed.

For static timing (and dizzy placement determination) you want the piston for cylinder #1 (radiator end) near the top of its stroke (look through the spark plug hole). At this condition you will find:
1) Cylinder #1's valves will NOT be rocking,
2) Cylinder #1's rocker arms will be loose (you can move them by hand),
3) Cylinder #4's valves WILL be rocking,
4) Cylinder #4's rocker arms will be TIGHT (you CANNOT move them).

I generally set the timing to 8 BTDC for a restart condition as it's easy cranking on the starter. Final timing with a light is set later when the engine is up to temperature.

Thank you for an excellent description. Those that went for the timing 180 degrees out were absolutely right. The dizzy's on my 1000 and 1275 were 180 degrees out. Swapping the distributor cap and leads from one to the other just confused things. Have re-plumbed the HT leads, set the static timing to 8 degrees and the 1275 started first time. Hurrah!!

[mk3 Cooper S]

Just to clarify this (and it is important), there is a big difference between how some texts reference this and what to look for.

"Valves Rocking" means that both valves are "open" and you can tell this by looking at their rocker arms. One arm will appear to be a little "up" the other a little "down".
"Rocker arms Loose" (my preferred description) is when you can grab both rocker arms and move them a little. This means the valves are fully closed.

For static timing (and dizzy placement determination) you want the piston for cylinder #1 (radiator end) near the top of its stroke (look through the spark plug hole). At this condition you will find:
1) Cylinder #1's valves will NOT be rocking,
2) Cylinder #1's rocker arms will be loose (you can move them by hand),
3) Cylinder #4's valves WILL be rocking,
4) Cylinder #4's rocker arms will be TIGHT (you CANNOT move them).

I generally set the timing to 8 BTDC for a restart condition as it's easy cranking on the starter. Final timing with a light is set later when the engine is up to temperature.

Thank you for an excellent description. Those that went for the timing 180 degrees out were absolutely right. The dizzy's on my 1000 and 1275 were 180 degrees out. Swapping the distributor cap and leads from one to the other just confused things. Have re-plumbed the HT leads, set the static timing to 8 degrees and the 1275 started first time. Hurrah!!

I knew because I have been there!!! You live and learn!! Glad it is running now

[dklawson]

Excellent news! Congratulations and enjoy your engine transplant!