19 replies to this topic

[topcat]

I'm having a bit of a problem at the moment with my mini cooper (1991 carb). I'm getting a clicking noise from the offside whilst going slowly round corners. The offside CV Joint was replaced about 7 months ago but the clicking came back about a month ago and has been getting worse. Last weekend I put a different hub on with new bearings and swivel joints. The clicking stopped for about 10mins, then
came back. Last night I re-tightened the driveshaft nut really tight which again stopped the clicking for about 15mins but now its back to how it was. The nut has not come loose and still has the split pin in. Does anyone have any ideas? I can produce the clicking noise by wobbling the wheel hard when jacked up but the swivel joints are fine. Would really apprieciate it if anyone has any ideas, Thanks, Ben

[cowboy]

sounds like a drive shaft problem

where in witshire R U maybe i could have a look at it 4 u

[topcat]

Hi, I'm living in Malmesbury (just moved up from Devon) working in Melksham

[topcat]

The clicking sounds like it is from the wheel end, not the gearbox end. cant understand it. Surely a CV joint cant wear out in 7 months?!

[Guess-Works.com]

Just a thought, but it may be the cable tie or boot strap which the CV boot is held on by, clicking against the hub...

Easiest way to look for a click is to get the car up on axle stands and then rotate the wheel while you're under it so you can identify the source.

[topcat]

Yer, good thought. I have jacked it up and rotated the wheel on full lock and without but it doesnt click then. It only clicks with a load on it. It will click if you just push the car backwards whilst on full lock left aswell.

[dklawson]

A common practice in the U.S. is to buy "rebuilt" CV joints as part of a complete half-shaft/drive-shaft assembly. (Not for Minis... God knows there aren't enough of those!) Anyway, the rebuild process (apart from cosmetic restoration) is to disassemble the joints, and "carefully" refit new balls as needed to fit the clearance in the joint. It's not unusual for a shaft rebuilt like this to have problems. However, they're typically warranted for at least a year and most places that sell rebuilt shafts or rebuild them will gladly take them back. It's as if they know they'll go bad. So yes... a "new" CV can go bad quickly, particularly if it's new "rebuilt".

I'd suggest jacking up the suspect corner of the car, block the wheels on the ground, then put the car in neutral. With the steering wheel turned in the offending direction, rotate the road wheel by hand to see if you can reproduce the sound. The clicking sound could also be a wheel bearing... but since you say it's more pronounced while turning I'd continue to focus your attention on the CV.

[philc]

if this is only happening when turning, perhaps its the steering rack?

[Jammy]

When you jacked the car up did you jack the wheel assembley up as well?

Heres my thinking, as GW said it could be something like the cable tie clipping something, now it maybe that when the car is jacked up, and the wheel is lower down, that the cable tie doesn't reach whatever it is that its hitting?

[topcat]

Sorry i should have mentioned, it was clicking yesterday when i was reversing in a straight line. I'm sure its not a cable tie or anything catching because when have tightened the driveshaft nut, the clicking goes away for a while

[topcat]

I phoned the garage that did the CV joint 7 months ago and they said it was a new CV joint, not a re-built one.

[topcat]

Well, I went to a mini specialist last night and he said it could either be the inside of the hub that is worn causing the bearing to spin. Or it could be the surface that the bearings sit on that is worn but i doubt it because that is only 7 months old. The only other he said it could be is wear on the driving flange which pushes the bearings up tight. I think it is the driving flange because the hub is a different hub than before and its not that old so I'm going to try swapping the driving flange at the weekend. I'll let you know what happens!

[dklawson]

OK, I've got an idea but it isn't pleasant.

You said the problem seems to go away for a while when the big nut is tightened. To me this indicates the joint may never have been installed and tightened properly.

The CVs on Minis are secured differently than on any other car I've worked on. The CV stub axle passes through the front bearings (and their fixed spacer/distance-piece) and then through a tapered, spit clamping washer. The clamping washer can cause serious problems if you don't tighten things down in the right order.

What should have been done is to pass fit a HEAVY flat washer to the hub (not the split washer). The CV is then torqued to the specified amount (150 lb-ft? ). The nut is then removed along with the flat washer. The split washer is then installed followed by the nut which is then torqued again. This time, the nut is tightened "more" if necessary to get the cotter pin holes to line up (do not back up to line up the holes). The purpose of using the flat washer first is to make sure the CV is fully seated. If you fit the split washer first, it can BITE on the CV stub BEFORE the CV is fully seated, in effect leaving it loose even though you've torqued it.

If you're lucky, you will be able to extract the slit washer and torque the bearing as I described to make this noise go away. However, it is also possible to damage the split washer and/or the stub of the CV if the car is driven with this assembly improperly torqued. This can make it necessary to replace both parts... again.

EDIT: The situations Topcat is describing in his last post can happen if the assembly isn't torqued properly. Sorry to be so long winded in describing what could cause the situation described by his specialist.

Edited by dklawson, 16 November 2005 - 01:29 PM.

[Sprocket]

OK, I've got an idea but it isn't pleasant.

You said the problem seems to go away for a while when the big nut is tightened. To me this indicates the joint may never have been installed and tightened properly.

The CVs on Minis are secured differently than on any other car I've worked on. The CV stub axle passes through the front bearings (and their fixed spacer/distance-piece) and then through a tapered, spit clamping washer. The clamping washer can cause serious problems if you don't tighten things down in the right order.

What should have been done is to pass fit a HEAVY flat washer to the hub (not the split washer). The CV is then torqued to the specified amount (150 lb-ft? ). The nut is then removed along with the flat washer. The split washer is then installed followed by the nut which is then torqued again. This time, the nut is tightened "more" if necessary to get the cotter pin holes to line up (do not back up to line up the holes). The purpose of using the flat washer first is to make sure the CV is fully seated. If you fit the split washer first, it can BITE on the CV stub BEFORE the CV is fully seated, in effect leaving it loose even though you've torqued it.

If you're lucky, you will be able to extract the slit washer and torque the bearing as I described to make this noise go away. However, it is also possible to damage the split washer and/or the stub of the CV if the car is driven with this assembly improperly torqued. This can make it necessary to replace both parts... again.

EDIT: The situations Topcat is describing in his last post can happen if the assembly isn't torqued properly. Sorry to be so long winded in describing what could cause the situation described by his specialist.

Spot on mate.

Or it could be the inner 'Pot' joint that is now the problem.

Round what corner and which wheel is making the noise

[topcat]

Yer i've heard of this before, the haynes manual tells you to do this. I didnt have a washer so i put the split collar on back to front to push the hub on, then took it off and put it on the correct way round, still no joy. Just got a new driving flange today so will try to find time to do it soon. probably the weekend. Will find a flat washer aswell! Don't think its the inner pot joint, you can really hear the clicking from the hub when out of the car, unless the sound is travvelling down the driveshaft?! Will keep you all updated, thanks for all you ideas and help!