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4wd Vtec Conversion....


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#16 jayare

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Posted 25 June 2010 - 10:41 PM

If you want alloy hubs, I'd be looking at the KAD ones rather than the Minisport ones - same price (actually the KAD ones are a couple of quid cheaper!) and I'd much rather be putting something this important in KAD's direction!

They do rears too - clicky which are slightly more than the Minisport ones but not by much,

JR

#17 Saxo-Fiesta-Mini

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 12:39 AM

rwd will call for new rear supension set up so kad wont fit on the back

#18 jayare

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 01:13 AM

And neither will the Minisport ones linked to by the OP....... unless there is a cunning plan!

JR

#19 F1 Mini

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 04:03 PM

Rear will be from a Mazda Miata as it's 4x100 PCD and nice small Disc brake setup to boot......

http://www.tirerack....U...&sort=Brand

Also been looking at these wheels....

#20 F1 Mini

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 04:11 PM

The range of 14" tires I can get are here in Canada are way better than other sizes, and even winter tires can be got for 185/60/14.
There's also some nice 195/55/14 Cut DOT approved slicks same rolling diameter...

Well your all scratching your heads at this point saying "Clive but there 22.7 inches tall way bigger than the 19.7 of a 175/50/13"

Yes I know, and the reason is I need a little more ground clearance for those winter months, and the front uprights will be pushed out further than normal to fit a ET30+ wheel.

The K series Honda is allot wider and if you look at the Minitec suspension for the K series motor the wishbones are effectively shorter to allow for the engine and box.

So I want to get the Wishbone lengths back to something a little longer and more stable.

Edited by F1 Mini, 29 June 2010 - 04:19 PM.


#21 F1 Mini

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 04:30 PM

I've been doing allot of Suspension work on my other project car, an after reading loads of books and doing CAD simulations I'm happy I can keep the Roll Centres way more stable by doing my own front and rear suspension. By using double wishbones on the rear you can alter the Roll Centre heights to what ever you want. The normal has a set RC height at the centre of the wheels, that can not be altered due to the Nature of sing arms suspension setup.
I can Replicate that RC height even with bigger wheels to get back that Mini feel back. I'm presently CAD drawing the Original front suspension from the std Sub-frames I have, so I can work out what the std RC height is. Then I might even keep the RC heights the same front and rear.

Cad modeling is a great way to get things right before you start and I do now have my own CNC miller now so making parts myself not a problem..

#22 F1 Mini

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 04:36 PM

Just got it home at this point, have now retro fitted a New PC control systems to it. It also has a 24 piece tool changer now that my last miller didn't....

Attached Files


Edited by F1 Mini, 29 June 2010 - 04:38 PM.


#23 F1 Mini

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 07:07 PM

The head arrived today, nice condition with all the new Springs and retainers etc...

Been looking at a few vtec conversions and i think a K series Turbo hasn't been done yet?? so will be looking into if I can manipulate the firewall to fit a Turbo... Seems the early B series manifold sticks into the original firewall and people have had to cut out large sections to make it fit... Just got me thinking then is there room to fit a One off Exhaust manifold and a turbo mounted maybe above the gearbox to the side of the motor......

#24 F1 Mini

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Posted 18 July 2010 - 07:07 PM

Bought some Miata rear hubs of EBay got them Friday.
Need new bearings but they be fine for the car. Am using the std Miata rear disc's, (225mm Solid). I already have from my last Mini project the Wilwood 4 pot caliper that have the Hand Brake attachments so will be fitting them....

#25 F1 Mini

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 03:52 PM

The only front hubs that came with car where for drums, even the second front subframe still only had drum units.
Was looking at all the fancy lightweight versions, but in the end I do want to get this car to the finished. So I have ordered new swivel hubs from MiniSprint new EN24 drive flanges and bearings ball joints and outer CV joints. I think the 4kgs I could have saved might not be as relevant if a I end up with 300-400 BHP. Plus the £400 saving would buy me a Turbo charger... so which would i prefer...

#26 F1 Mini

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 03:55 PM

I bought a DTA S80PRO ECU in a bulk buy last year, was going to use it in another project of mine but found a better (More expensive) unit that is better suited to that project. So up shot is I can use it on the Mini now. The S80 is alittle more than I need but nothing wrong with that...

http://www.dtafast.co.uk/S_80_PRO.htm

#27 F1 Mini

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:50 AM

All the new Swivel hubs Bearings Ball joints and new CV's arrived today... So I have measured the up now and will be putting it on Cad soon...

#28 F1 Mini

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 07:54 PM

Right have mapped the Std front suspension and the front roll centres are really low, 46mm to be precise.. That was kind of a surprise due to the fact the rear swing arms Roll Centre heights will be spindle centre line, close to 235mm....
That's quite a difference in heights I can only think that the short 90" wheelbase and lightweight rear must kind of make the rear less important. For example my Midengined car has front and rear RC heights only 50mm difference.

I would like to keep the ride height std or even lower it maybe to 4", but I want this to be a all year round car and winters here can be bad with snow. So I'm going to raise her slightly to about 6" clearance. The bigger wheels (22.7" Dia over the normal 175/50 of 19.9") will kind of hide the taller height and with the CAD simulation I've done seems I could even keep the original Steering rack and mounts, just fit longer Track rods, as the Mazda wheels have a -38mm offset compared to the std +7 of a normal 13x7, So the width of the car will not change but the hub to hub width will be wider and so will the wishbones...

#29 cptkirk

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 11:22 AM

I would be interested in seeing jpegs of CAD work, have you gone full 3D model or 2D working out drawings?

#30 F1 Mini

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Posted 04 August 2010 - 06:06 AM

Only 2D at present just to get a feel of the original RC points, and how much they move under roll and compression. But will do in 3D on final version for my car, as need to move out board the front pickup points due to width of engine and gearbox, and easier to get rid of bump steer in Cad before making new Steering arms etc.




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