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Hot Running Auto


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#16 GW

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 07:32 AM

already reverse flushed the rad and heater. Surely a 74 stat would just mean it would take longer to warm up, it would still get to the same temp eventually.

#17 MiniJosh92

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 08:41 AM

It's a silly one but just make sure the fan is on the right way round.

#18 GW

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 06:16 PM

yeah its on the right way josh.

drove to Minis on the rec today, on the way there it was sat little above normal after the first 25 miles, and a bit hotter on brighton bypass. on the way home the ambient temp was a lot higher, and it sat halfway between normal and hot the whole way home with the heater on.....

I dont know how other people faired in the hot weather today (over 30deg!) but that was a bit more than I was comfortable with today. Could smell the coolant coming home, and i have very little sense of smell!

Given everything has been replaced now, timing is set and fuelling is adjusted (but needs checking) i think i'll get a smaller fan pulley or 4 blade fan for the hotter weather and switch back over winter.

Nelson, how many miles have you done since running the wynns flush through it? as said I'm pretty wary of putting things into the auto.

Ive used the slick stuff in an engine before on my 190e and it did seem to help it, agin though, not confident putting it in the auto. any one sle used it?

#19 bmcecosse

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 06:27 PM

Don't put 'Slick' in the auto oil!!!!!!!!!!!! Your stat may be an 88 at the moment - great in winter - not so good in summer. At least with a lower 74 stat - when the engine gets a 'break' it can cool down slightly - giving a reserve for the next burst of stick! The smaller pulley helped mine - if all else fails - try just fitting a thermostat blanking sleeve - just for the hot months. I have in the past been known to run without a grille in the hottest weather - or perhaps you could use a grille with every second bar removed. Some Rally cars have the back edge of the bonnet propped open too - although personally I think it's better kept shut - so the forward motion forces all the air out through the rad! And I have seen a row of 2" holes cut in the curved front of the bonnet. But really - these measures should NOT be necessary on a standard auto car!

Edited by bmcecosse, 27 June 2010 - 06:29 PM.


#20 GW

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 06:43 PM

its an 82deg at the moment.

I mentioned the slick as nelson92 said he had used it with good results. Again I'm not keen on using these things and as has been said - the standard system should be up to the job but fact is its all been replaced and its still getting hot. the engine and box are still 22 years old and prob never been taken apart. unleaded may cause it to run a bit hotter?

Any one else out in an auto today have preoblems? Or what temp do they normally run at?

#21 Nelson92

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 09:27 PM

yo guys relax on the slick. :thumbsup: its been in there 4 months or so this time and its not the first time i've used it. before i've even used some cheaper brand. it's just a coating that lowers friction a bit. which i always put in old motors. it also makes it ALOT quieter on the motorway.
i flush the oil every 3rd change. first in march 2008. its had 3 flushes i think so far.
when i got the car the prev owner (very old person) hadn't ever flushed it and rarely serviced it beyond a quick retune & mot.

gw have you taken off the oil recirc pipe and checked it? also in the head there are the oil feeds, it may be time to get the rocker off and start looking down them for gunk.

my temp is just below half way on the gauge, but thats after putting in a better rad. before it was half way or slightly above.
i can recommend the rad upgrade but as people have said, it may not cure the main problem.
but if you solve the problem its a good way of getting the auto to run cooler. same with the leccy fan in summer.

#22 MRA

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 10:14 PM

Slick 50 and the like are designed to lower friction..... auto's and for that matter work on friction, ie clutch and brake bands are a friction device, so how does Slick 50 work so well in your car ;)

THat is the question on most peoples minds .....

#23 Nelson92

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 10:23 PM

Slick 50 and the like are designed to lower friction..... auto's and for that matter work on friction, ie clutch and brake bands are a friction device, so how does Slick 50 work so well in your car ;)

THat is the question on most peoples minds .....


good point. well made :o
honestly i've no idea. maybe the amount it reduces it by is so little in mechanical terms that it only reduces the gearbox friction by say 5%.
(like spraying oil/lube when drilling metal, you lube it, but its still a hell of alot of friction)
BUT because the engine part of my engine has lower friction from the coating, the power gain accounts for the loss?
bit of give and take. the car is alot quieter, but not faster. i've never believed these things give you alot more speed, just help the engine work better and smoother.

[disclaimer: i may be guessing]

Edited by Nelson92, 27 June 2010 - 10:25 PM.


#24 GW

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:02 AM

given the results you have had with the oil flush I shall prob try that on my next change and see what comes out! wil also whip the rocker cover off and check valve clearences at that time. if it still runs hot after that then I'll get a 4 blade fan or smaller pulley. Dont really want to spend out on a new rad when mine is only 2 months old

#25 MRA

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:06 AM

6 blade "hot climate" fan would be better than a 4 blade fan.

http://mra-minis.co....metal-2a998.htm

#26 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:18 AM

A plastic fan would be better than a 4 blade one !

#27 GW

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 08:34 AM

cheers, I'll bear theat one in mind Martin, although it says on your link that 4 blade is better for cooling?

#28 MRA

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:02 PM

I see what you mean...

#29 GW

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Posted 29 June 2010 - 07:30 AM

Found anothe problem last night. I was checking it all over again, points, timing, setting the cab up. it then started to misfire and wouldnt start. spent ages going round the adjustments i made to the carb and undoing them, then checked the spark. Dead.

Luckily i had a set of points and condensor with me (the only spares i had!) fitted these and it fired into life again! condensor must have died. still have to sort the carb properly as I lost track of my settings a bit whilst trying to get it started but already running better this morning once idle was set. have to wait for another hot day to see how he does.




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