27 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

Yes, but you won't alter that 275psi by letting fluid out as it's sealed in with the gas. The operating range must be higher, since it'd be sat on its bump stops with no fluid in it. 275 + a corner of a Metro will still be a constant unaffected by the volume of fluid it's resting on.

Like any car a lowered Metty will have a different c-o-g and the front geometry would change more than a Mini's as there's more roll induced camber designed in.

[Lukie-J]

That sounds very confusing!!

Thanks for all the responses. I've read them through a few times and I'm pretty sure I understand it.

I think we'll try letting some out, then drive it for a couple days see how it drives/sits then maybe let some more out.

Will I have to let the same amount out of each corner or is it connected?

Is it split just front/rear?

Or does it all become lower?

How would I let the liquid out? Is there some sort of bleed nipple somewhere?

Edited by Lukie-J, 18 July 2010 - 08:16 PM.

[Lukie-J]

P.S This is the unsuspecting metro.....33K miles!!

[MRA]

It's your Metro, however it looks like it should be in a museum............ 1982ish and appears to have no rust !!! Surely that's unheard of

Once you have let the fluid out you will see what we mean, but beware as they get very unstable once below a certain point, let us know how you get on with it though

[xBR4DLEY]

It's your Metro, however it looks like it should be in a museum............ 1982ish and appears to have no rust !!! Surely that's unheard of

Once you have let the fluid out you will see what we mean, but beware as they get very unstable once below a certain point, let us know how you get on with it though

1983

[MRA]

that is 1982ish.... LOL

[mini13]

as above don't go too far, and watch that fluid it comes out at a fair rate!

do the fronts first, they are seperate, the rears are intconected and will come down together.

Also another reason not to slam it to the floor is that you can end up with the drive shafts not located in the pot joint enough, and they will pop out.

[Lukie-J]

Logbook says 1984! You're right, it doesn't have any rust, and it was a bargain! Which is why it's an ideal project really. Everything should be reversible
(I'm sure you can get the fluid pumped back in somehow)
Thanks for the help.
So do the fronts first, then the rears; got it.

How do I let the fluid out? Is there a bleed nipple somewhere?

What's the best way to make sure that they're both the same?

I will let you know how we get on. Will put some pictures up soon of it with some 12x6 revo's on

Edited by Lukie-J, 19 July 2010 - 07:58 PM.

[mk1leg]

Thats a real clean metro do not butcher it.......lol............

[Stevee]

you cant mod that metro!

its well nice!!

[Ethel]

There are Schrader valves exactly the same as on your tyres. As has been stated the pressure is rather more than your tyres - it'll be like trying to balance a couple of fire extinguishers!

[Lukie-J]

will have to be very careful then!!
Not my car so don't preach to me! just helping a friend out, with a lot of input.

[Lukie-J]

He's got a thread on Retro Rides...and had a very mixed response!
Before pictures are on the first page, after pic on the second page.
(ignore the cheap-tint method, I think it's stupid too!)

Decided to take it to a garage to have it lowered with the proper pump thing.
Still got an inch of travel before the bump stops so I think it'll be OK, doesn't look massively different but handles better and will look slightly better (when he eventually gets some 12x6 wheels)

Edited by Lukie-J, 14 August 2010 - 12:19 PM.