27 replies to this topic

[RustyFuknut]

I have read your guide about an hour ago, nothing short of fantastic. any suggestions on how to get it to fasten onto the rollbars? im really lost as to how to do this : /

All the best

Tom

[mini_basser]

That's the thing...with kickpods etc it's all well and good as you have something to glass against. Same with sub enclosures: you tend to have a couple of a solid faces which you can attach a frame to allowing you to stretch the fleece/mat out

Idea: make up a triangle of thin wood batons that slots inside the shape of the cage. (don't forget to account for trimming after) Then add some depth with some more batons; just enough to get close to the wheel arch. This effectively gives you a frame work of wood. Remove this and lay some fleece/material inside it, stretching it and stapling it to the batons. Apply the resin and let it cure, then add a couple more layers to thicken it out.

Hopefully when you go to put it back in the car it will still fit as you havn't built outwards at all with the fibreglass. Attach a 12mm MDF baffle to the glass build and cut a hole for the speaker

If you make it a tight enough fit, it should almost wedge in place on it's own. You could get away with something like velcro or maybe a couple of small self tappers as well?

Not sure if that would work as I havn't done a huge amount of FG work, but it's an idea!

[RustyFuknut]

Would it be possible to just make a carpeted MDF housing thats risen enough to accomodate the speaker? im not sure how speakers work but if its in a sealed box does it need air ports?

This would be alot easier for me than resin

Thanks for the info

[mini_basser]

I guess MDF should work fine...I just think it could be harding making it look smart and fit in place well enough

Some speakers "prefer" playing into the expanse of your average car door, but many are fine with being in sealed boxes

[RustyFuknut]

Think I will do it that way as it seems like a good option for me, I may use resin at a later date but for now seems way to complicated for me to do.

thanks alot for the info

oh yeah..would these 2 speakers be OK just running from the head unit? If so, I still have the speaker wires hanging down in my boot, how are they routed? could I just snip them off half way and put them in the 2 front speakers until I can sort out the rest of my I.C.E?

All the best

Tom

[cooper_shaz]

Hi Tom

An idea based on above info.

If you can slide a piece of MDF in behind the roll cage, make it bigger than the opening (about 20mm) and make the speaker mount board sit over the front of the roll cage (bigger by about 30mm) a couple batons in between
about 2mm narower than the rollcage, you could effectively sandwich the cage between the enclosure which would hold it..

some sponge or carpet around the batons would halp if locate.

L brackets between the back board and batons would pull it together.

As for sound quality, the bass is coming from the rear, so i reckon it would be ok,
but I guess it is really a case of trial and error.

Hope you work it out... when you do, would be good to see pics of what you did in the end.

Good luck mate...!!

[mini_basser]

That's not a bad idea at all actually. Only possible problem is mounting depth between the front and back...I'd imagine the cage isn't hugely thick

And it's "bass" by the way

[RustyFuknut]

aye, mounting depth worries me a bit, I think I may angle it a bit (level with the cage near the door and as it go's away, raise it up a bit. The speakers will point down a bit but this doesnt matter does it?

Tom

[cooper_shaz]

You could always add a couple rings made from MDF to increase the space a bit, It will not really matter too much about the angle, but upwards facing will direct the sound better toward you.

:cheese:

Also no problem running these from the head unit.

You will probably find the existing speaker cables running along the floor, you may have to split the loom wires (carefully). Have a look at the colours in the boot and you can identify them easily when you see them.

But just as easy to re-wire in a couple new cables, saves the hassle.

[RustyFuknut]

bit of a noob question but how are head units removed? and how many wires should be comming from it? and what are they all for?

Tom

[mini_basser]

I lobbed a simple CD HU in my Clio a couple of days ago...had to re-wire some of it as the previous owner had done such a bodge

To remove the current you need some keys. However, almost every brand has a different shape! Can you see any holes or slots on the side or top of the unit (you might have to remove the face)

Wiring wise, a basic unit will need :

Constant live
Ignition live
Earth

(then you have mute wires, illumination as well as a remote for connection amps)

On top of that you have 8 speaker terminals: obviously front and rear left and right, positive and negative

[RustyFuknut]

cant see any slots anywhere : /

its open at the back though, maybe its pushed out from the rear or something?

Tom

[cooper_shaz]

Nah it wont push out, well it should not..

on the side of the unit are 2 covers

these will pop off and you will probably find 4 holes there, get 4 nails and push them into the holes and then you will be able to slide the unit out..

Have highlighted the cover in the picture below..

Re-wiring there is normally a guide on the stereo..

Or you will basically have speakers, power (1 permanent, 1 switched) elec ariel/remote switch, earth and thats aboout it.
maybe a couple phono leads for connecting to an amp..

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