16 replies to this topic

[Mini Cheddars]

Model: Austin Morris 1000
Year: 1979
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible): How do I find out what type of gearbox I have?

Because I don't have a blimmin' clue. I'll be buying this kit in an hour or two and want to know if it will fit on.

I read this thread and this thread for a bit of research into the kit.

I looked for a roll pin punch tool on the site but only saw this. Is it the same thing?

I'm fairly sure my oil leak is coming from there and the guy I bought it from said something about the link having something to do with the gearbox. I think he said rod but I want to be 100% sure before I go out and buy it.

[Mini Cheddars]

Underneath the car.

[pikey7]

you have a rod that connects the shifter to the gearbox? i.e. it's not a bloomin great casting that goes to the shifter?

then try http://www.minispare...=...5775&title= and for the drift, http://www.minispare...=...2482&title=

and as a TMF+ member, you'll get discount.

EDIT: Yes you do have that changer, but that looks a bit more serious than a gearchange seal gone. Can you get it up on ramps, give it a clean, and see if you can spot any clue as to where it's from?

Edited by pikey7, 01 September 2010 - 01:14 PM.

[Mini Cheddars]

Well I was going to pop to Mini Speed because it's only about a 20-30 minute drive down the road. Not too worried about the discount for such little money.

I have someone I could see. He lives 2 minutes away. I'll just pop to his.

Blimey, sounds like an IM conversation.

[Mini Cheddars]

Well I've seen him and he says I need an oil seal gearbox-pot joint.

Edited by Mini Cheddars, 01 September 2010 - 02:32 PM.

[bobs]

He says I need an oil seal gearbox-pot join.

huh?

I'd replace the rod change (gear lever) oil seal first, give it a wipe then see if it's the "pot join" also, If I think I know what he's on about, you'll need to fit new diff output oil seals (bit where the drive shafts seat into the gearbox/diff) for those and it's a slightly bigger job, only because the rod seal is a pain for such a simple job!

For the diff seals, you'll need to pop the driveshafts out and fit http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=35753

They should fit a 1979? I think...

[Mini Cheddars]

He says I need an oil seal gearbox-pot join.

huh?

I'd replace the rod change (gear lever) oil seal first, give it a wipe then see if it's the "pot join" also, If I think I know what he's on about, you'll need to fit new diff output oil seals (bit where the drive shafts seat into the gearbox/diff) for those and it's a slightly bigger job, only because the rod seal is a pain for such a simple job!

For the diff seals, you'll need to pop the driveshafts out and fit http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=35753

They should fit a 1979? I think...

That was my initial intention but I'd stay with the club mechanic's advice rather than my own. Techincal terms are all gobbledegook to me I'm afraid but he did show me where the leak was coming from and what is required to replace the parts I need to replace.

I'll just go to the car, pop the bonnet and take another picture...

[bobs]

I'll just go to the car, pop the bonnet and take another picture...

huh? no really, are you serious?

Take a picture of the bit where the drive shaft (bit that rotates the wheel) goes into the diff housing (rear sides of gearbox) and try to get a good picture of the oil leaking out from there, hard to tell in your original post, then take a picture of the back of the bottom of the gearbox (where the gear stick link rod is going in) get a good angle so you can see the oil dripping out, those are where you should be looking first.

Change your top, you're going to get dripped on... Probably in the face/hair also so a hat is advised.

[Mini Cheddars]

I'll just go to the car, pop the bonnet and take another picture...

huh? no really, are you serious?

Take a picture of the bit where the drive shaft (bit that rotates the wheel) goes into the diff housing (rear sides of gearbox) and try to get a good picture of the oil leaking out from there, hard to tell in your original post, then take a picture of the back of the bottom of the gearbox (where the gear stick link rod is going in) get a good angle so you can see the oil dripping out, those are where you should be looking first.

Change your top, you're going to get dripped on... Probably in the face/hair also so a hat is advised.

There's method in my madness. The guy I saw showed me something regarding the driveshaft and one of the guys with him mentioned how clean the red bit (just left of center) is and that it should be gunky but I'm not 100% sure that's what he was pointing to.



I'll try and get those pictures for you.

I won't be going to Mini Speed today. It's a bit further than I thought it was and I can't find their opening hours on the website.

[bobs]

Yup, that's the driveshaft, so my earlier link is for the seals for it (one for each side), I'd do both (diff output & Rod change seal) as mentioned above then it should stop all leaks.

Search for: "diff output shaft seals" on here, there might be some info on how to do it, alternatively it's all in the Haynes manual.

Your diff is the blue thing at the bottom next to (left of) the red thing he pointed at... I hope you're following? (under the fuel pump, grey round thing on left side of pic)

You need to pop the red bit (pot joints on end of driveshaft) out of the blue casing (diff), remove old seal, wipe, fit new seal, then pop driveshaft back in, repeat for other side.

Sounds easier than it is, I had to take the front wheels off, release the hub from the ball joints (ball joint splitter needed) on each side to get the driveshafts out.

My advice is to look in the Haynes manual first and see if you feel confident about doing it.

[Mini Cheddars]

Yup, that's the driveshaft, so my earlier link is for the seals for it (one for each side), I'd do both (diff output & Rod change seal) as mentioned above then it should stop all leaks.

Search for: "diff output shaft seals" on here, there might be some info on how to do it, alternatively it's all in the Haynes manual.

Your diff is the blue thing at the bottom next to (left of) the red thing he pointed at... I hope you're following? (under the fuel pump, grey round thing on left side of pic)

You need to pop the red bit (pot joints on end of driveshaft) out of the blue casing (diff), remove old seal, wipe, fit new seal, then pop driveshaft back in, repeat for other side.

Sounds easier than it is, I had to take the front wheels off, release the hub from the ball joints (ball joint splitter needed) on each side to get the driveshafts out.

My advice is to look in the Haynes manual first and see if you feel confident about doing it.

Thanks, man. Big help.

I must've taken about 20 or so pics and this is most probably the clearest one I have.



Then I took a picture of where I park the car. I got it near the end of April. I used to have the car parked facing the opposite way (offside to middle of road) until someone tried either breaking in or knocked my door with a car. So now I have a slightly different colour offside door and have it parked the way you see the car parked in the picture. That would be why there's a line the length of the car.



As you can see. Pretty big problem...

The guy I saw earlier will watch over me as I fit the parts. Guiding me along.

Edited by Mini Cheddars, 01 September 2010 - 03:31 PM.

[bobs]

100% it's your Diff Output Seals.

Also get the kit for the rod change oil seal while you are at it.

Doing both should cure a slick BP would be ashamed of!!

[Mini Cheddars]

Thanks dude. Will do.

Seeing as I didn't go today I'm in two minds whether to go to Mini Speed on Saturday with one of my Mini club buddies or go to town, put some cash into my bank account and order them online today. Hmmm..

[bobs]

Sorry, can't help you with that...

[Big_Adam]

Don't forget to drain the engine oil BEFORE you pull of the pot joints.

Just saying is all.