Anti Run On Valve Advice
#1
Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:14 PM
If anyones got a picture of one fitted that would be better.
#2
Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:17 PM
#3
Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:51 PM
Hi mate tried everything you name it ive tried it my engine is tuned and ive just had it rolling road tuned up at southern mini and metro center and they said it was perfect this is my last thing to try then the minis going in the binAnti run on valves are only needed on cars that run on because their specific tuning causes it even when they are in good health. Most cars, certainly most Minis will not need one. The conditions that cause running on generally point to other problems in the engine, have you tried fixing the problem in any other way?
#4
Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:40 PM
Hi mate tried everything you name it ive tried it my engine is tuned and ive just had it rolling road tuned up at southern mini and metro center and they said it was perfect this is my last thing to try then the minis going in the binAnti run on valves are only needed on cars that run on because their specific tuning causes it even when they are in good health. Most cars, certainly most Minis will not need one. The conditions that cause running on generally point to other problems in the engine, have you tried fixing the problem in any other way?
I just need to know where to buy a anti run on valve and weather its plumbed in before that valve on the servo pipe or after
Just got another quick question how tight should the hub nuts be the 4 that hold the disc and flange on also do they need locktight on them thank you.
#5
Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:45 PM
#6
Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:51 PM
Thanks Dan just had a look at moss there about £70 delivered abit expensive I thought is there anywhere else that does them bit cheaper. Dont supose you know how tight those nuts should be I mentioned do youIf it's in proper tune and all new and clean inside but still runs on, a valve might well be the best thing. Moss stock them. It doesn't really matter if it's before or after the one way valve, but before is traditional.
#7
Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:55 PM
Try somewhere like Holden Vintage and Classic or Car Builder Solutions for the valve but I've only seen them at Moss I think.
#8
Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:57 PM
Thats brill thanks Dan appreciate youre help.Not without a reference book I dont, sorry. They don't need Locktite though.
Try somewhere like Holden Vintage and Classic or Car Builder Solutions for the valve but I've only seen them at Moss I think.
#9
Posted 02 September 2010 - 09:06 PM
#10
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:27 AM
You really really don't need an anti-run-on valve. Fix the problem!
This leads me to ask the question, why were they fitted as standard to the Mainstream coopers? did they get rolled out of the factory with an engine fault? and many many other standard production cars have them fitted. so are all these production cars faulty?
Not trying to be funny, but i had to ask!
Try running your car on a higher octane fuel such as V-power. It may just help.
As a clue to the answer to my question, you will find that the reason most cars that were fitted with this simple device in the early stages was because of the change to unleaded fuels!
Maybe someone else here is old enough to remember these issues (Ethel)
Another old school trick was to advance the ignition until just before the engine pinks. just advance a couple of degrees at a time and test drive it, get it hot then shut it off. Once the engine sounds right under load and it shuts down without running on, leave it at that and forget the "perfect" rr testing. you may even find the performance will improve.
Edited by customcart, 03 September 2010 - 05:39 AM.
#11
Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:18 AM
Now and then when i stop my 93' 1275cc Sprite (carb HIF38) it really sort of shudders almost as if its running for second then decides to stop but dont do this all the time.
#12
Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:34 AM
i use to be able to drive my escort mark 5.5 300 yards after the ignotion was turned off cause it kept running :/ ecu fault
but on a mini its most likely going to be some carbon built up in the chambers or something got sucked into your engine and could of stuck to a piston and is burning still but this would also cause back firing :/
#13
Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:05 AM
Have you got your vacuum pipe on the dizzy still?
May not be the case but just seemed a bit odd that it happened to me.
#14
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:03 PM
Hi ye the tuck mine off to so no not got the vacume pipeMay not cure youre problem but when i got mine rolling roaded at southam he said that i didnt need my vacuum connected to the dizzy and that it just needed blocking off at the carb, so i did that and it used to run on for a second or too. Hooked the vacuum back up and it ran fine.
Have you got your vacuum pipe on the dizzy still?
May not be the case but just seemed a bit odd that it happened to me.
#15
Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:06 PM
Thanks fo everones help with this really appreciate it.
Edited by leepol83, 03 September 2010 - 05:13 PM.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users











