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Anti Run On Valve Advice


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#1 leepol83

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:14 PM

Hi ime going to get a anti run on valve to cure my problem of running on. Where do you buy them from and where do you tee it in to the servo pipe befor the valve thingy or after

If anyones got a picture of one fitted that would be better.

#2 Dan

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:17 PM

Anti run on valves are only needed on cars that run on because their specific tuning causes it even when they are in good health. Most cars, certainly most Minis will not need one. The conditions that cause running on generally point to other problems in the engine, have you tried fixing the problem in any other way?

#3 leepol83

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 07:51 PM

Anti run on valves are only needed on cars that run on because their specific tuning causes it even when they are in good health. Most cars, certainly most Minis will not need one. The conditions that cause running on generally point to other problems in the engine, have you tried fixing the problem in any other way?

Hi mate tried everything you name it ive tried it my engine is tuned and ive just had it rolling road tuned up at southern mini and metro center and they said it was perfect this is my last thing to try then the minis going in the bin :) I just need to know where to buy a anti run on valve and weather its plumbed in before that valve on the servo pipe or after

#4 leepol83

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:40 PM

Anti run on valves are only needed on cars that run on because their specific tuning causes it even when they are in good health. Most cars, certainly most Minis will not need one. The conditions that cause running on generally point to other problems in the engine, have you tried fixing the problem in any other way?

Hi mate tried everything you name it ive tried it my engine is tuned and ive just had it rolling road tuned up at southern mini and metro center and they said it was perfect this is my last thing to try then the minis going in the bin :) I just need to know where to buy a anti run on valve and weather its plumbed in before that valve on the servo pipe or after



Just got another quick question how tight should the hub nuts be the 4 that hold the disc and flange on also do they need locktight on them thank you.

#5 Dan

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:45 PM

If it's in proper tune and all new and clean inside but still runs on, a valve might well be the best thing. Moss stock them. It doesn't really matter if it's before or after the one way valve, but before is traditional.

#6 leepol83

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:51 PM

If it's in proper tune and all new and clean inside but still runs on, a valve might well be the best thing. Moss stock them. It doesn't really matter if it's before or after the one way valve, but before is traditional.

Thanks Dan just had a look at moss there about £70 delivered abit expensive I thought is there anywhere else that does them bit cheaper. Dont supose you know how tight those nuts should be I mentioned do you

#7 Dan

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:55 PM

Not without a reference book I dont, sorry. They don't need Locktite though.

Try somewhere like Holden Vintage and Classic or Car Builder Solutions for the valve but I've only seen them at Moss I think.

#8 leepol83

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:57 PM

Not without a reference book I dont, sorry. They don't need Locktite though.

Try somewhere like Holden Vintage and Classic or Car Builder Solutions for the valve but I've only seen them at Moss I think.

Thats brill thanks Dan appreciate youre help.

#9 bmcecosse

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 09:06 PM

You really really don't need an anti-run-on valve. Fix the problem! It's caused by something glowing bright red inside the chamber - and so igniting the mixture. This is NOT RIGHT ! It may be the plugs - have you tried others ? It may be sharp edges on the combustion chamber - or carbon deposits - or even sharp edged exhaust valves - or retarded timing - or weak mixture - but something isn't right. Why not just kill it with the clutch - or by opening the throttle wide !! ?? If desperate - some Metros had these fitted - I certainly wouldn't be paying £70!

#10 Yoda

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:27 AM

You really really don't need an anti-run-on valve. Fix the problem!


This leads me to ask the question, why were they fitted as standard to the Mainstream coopers? did they get rolled out of the factory with an engine fault? and many many other standard production cars have them fitted. so are all these production cars faulty?

Not trying to be funny, but i had to ask!

Try running your car on a higher octane fuel such as V-power. It may just help.

As a clue to the answer to my question, you will find that the reason most cars that were fitted with this simple device in the early stages was because of the change to unleaded fuels!

Maybe someone else here is old enough to remember these issues (Ethel) :)

Another old school trick was to advance the ignition until just before the engine pinks. just advance a couple of degrees at a time and test drive it, get it hot then shut it off. Once the engine sounds right under load and it shuts down without running on, leave it at that and forget the "perfect" rr testing. you may even find the performance will improve.

Edited by customcart, 03 September 2010 - 05:39 AM.


#11 bunch1980

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:18 AM

When you guys say run on do you mean the engine stays running after ignition has been switched off?

Now and then when i stop my 93' 1275cc Sprite (carb HIF38) it really sort of shudders almost as if its running for second then decides to stop but dont do this all the time.

#12 Stevee

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:34 AM

Bunch thats normal, a mini ticks over roughly about 850 RPM so thats very quick takes a min to slow down

i use to be able to drive my escort mark 5.5 300 yards after the ignotion was turned off cause it kept running :/ ecu fault :)

but on a mini its most likely going to be some carbon built up in the chambers or something got sucked into your engine and could of stuck to a piston and is burning still but this would also cause back firing :/

#13 BenH

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:05 AM

May not cure youre problem but when i got mine rolling roaded at southam he said that i didnt need my vacuum connected to the dizzy and that it just needed blocking off at the carb, so i did that and it used to run on for a second or too. Hooked the vacuum back up and it ran fine.

Have you got your vacuum pipe on the dizzy still?

May not be the case but just seemed a bit odd that it happened to me.

#14 leepol83

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:03 PM

May not cure youre problem but when i got mine rolling roaded at southam he said that i didnt need my vacuum connected to the dizzy and that it just needed blocking off at the carb, so i did that and it used to run on for a second or too. Hooked the vacuum back up and it ran fine.

Have you got your vacuum pipe on the dizzy still?

May not be the case but just seemed a bit odd that it happened to me.

Hi ye the tuck mine off to so no not got the vacume pipe

#15 leepol83

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:06 PM

I think I will get some new plugs ngkbp8 i think as ime running ngkbp7 at the mo and just run it with my kenlow fan on all the time as it doesnt do it when thats on.
Thanks fo everones help with this really appreciate it.

Edited by leepol83, 03 September 2010 - 05:13 PM.





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