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Brake mods


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#1 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:19 PM

This is something you should only do if you are confident about what you are doin, I have done this before and know how much I can take off the calliper before it breaks through to the fluid galleries. 6 x 10" Wellers are the only wheels that I am aware of that this can be done with, I tried it with a set on 6x10 minilites and i needed to remove too much material from the calliper for it to be safe.

Firstly take the wheel off and pull the split pin out of the castle nut in the centre of the hub, then undo the castle nut. Undo and remove the 4 bolts that hold the drive flange to the disk, the flange should come away from the hub when this is done.

Because I used 1/4" spacers I needed to change the studs to longer ones to allow for the spacer. To remove the old studs knock them out with a hammer. Fitting the new studs is the same, put them in the hole and knock them home with a hamer, making sure the domed end is sat flush against the back of the flange.

Re-atach the flange to the disk and re-fit the castle nut and taperred washer that goes behind it. Tighten the flange bolts up as tight as possible with your ractchet. Tighten the castle nut up to (according to Haynes) 188-200 lbs ft. In other words, tighten it as tight as you can, then get a long breaker bar and tighten it more, until the hole lines up in the CV joint for the split pin with the cut outs on the castle nut. ONLY tighten the nut until they line up, NEVER loosen it till they line up. Then pout the split pin back in and bend it over.

Next put the spacer on, then the wheel. Hold the wheel in place by hand and turn it a little bit. You will feel it binding on the calliper. Remove the wheel and look to see where the marks are on the calliper there will be some at the top and some at the bottom. With a grinder take away the offending material a small amount at a time, trying the wheel frequently to see where it still binds. Once you are confident you have taken enough material off the calliper then re-fit the wheel and tighten it down with the wheel nuts and check the clearance again. Rotate the wheel a few times and check that it isnt touching the calliper at any time. I aim to leave around 2 - 5mm clearance between the two. If you look from the right angle you can see the gap between the wheel and calliper clearly, it means you have to stick your head in behind the wheel tho.

Once your happy that it isnt touching anywere, then the jobs done. I used a 1/4" spacer and stud kit this time to do mine, but last time i did it, I used a 3/4" spacer and stud kit. It makes the wheels stick out a little bit further, but you hardly need to take anything off the calliper, if any at all.


Remove the split pin

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#2 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:21 PM

Follew by the castle nut

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#3 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:22 PM

Then the flange bolts

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#4 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:23 PM

And remove the flange

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#5 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:23 PM

Studs removed from the flange

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#6 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:24 PM

With the new longer studs in, bolt everything back up

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#7 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:25 PM

Put the spacer in place and hold the wheel on and turn it to see were it binds, then start to grind the calliper a bit at a time

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#8 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:26 PM

Frequently checking to see if it is still binding

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#9 Bluemini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:28 PM

Once finnished, you should be able to see a gap like this on all the areas ground back while the wheel is rotated

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#10 Pavel

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 03:46 PM

Looks scary but at least you can run 10"s now!!! :)

I can ALMOST fit a 10" steelie using those screw on 1 1/4" spacers that I have for my metro wheels...

#11 marksmini

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Posted 14 April 2004 - 07:38 PM

think this will be made into a FAQ...

nice work, loves the step by step pic's, thats what real count when telling how to do something,

10s are great ....




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