Ive just timed in my Calver ST (RE13 OT) cam, I waited for a DTI from flea-bay, Bought a timing gauge wheel from Mini Spares. Spent a long time setting all the kit up took all the readings as per the instructions on Calvers Corner. Had set the duplex Vernier gear up on dot to dot. And guess what, No adjustment required. Thats right.... None..... all that time and effort not to mention ££££'s and the dot to dot setting was bang on at 104.5 deg ATDC. After having a moan though!! Glad I checked it. I now know that the cam will perform at its best.

Mini Sport Mild Road Cam
Started by
sx_turbo
, Sep 28 2010 10:44 AM
20 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 29 September 2010 - 06:34 PM
#17
Posted 30 September 2010 - 07:13 AM
it is a mini sport regrind cam, the original cam was a 998 a+ cam, so has the fuel pump lobe on it,
the oil pump i'm using is brand spanking new and is slot drive because the cam is slot drive.
the cam was originally bought because she wanted a nice torquey 998 engine, it originally had a 12g295 head on it also when she first used the cam, and to be quite frank the engine ran like a bucket of *******.
her ex bf's father told her this was the route to go down for torque, and set it up originally and built the engine for her, it always pinked and could barely break 60mph, when i adjusted the carb with a colour tune and adjusted the timing on the dizzy it ran a lot better and could break 60mph, but was still really flat.
(a hif 38 with a cooper manifold and rc40 exhaust was used aswell)
i am rebuilding this engine as a stop gap until her tuned 1100 is done, which will be having a much different and much better setup.
the 12g295 head wont be used on this engine as we will be using that on the 1100, this engine is having the a+ leaded head put on it, so performance isnt really gonna be much on this engine i'm building
the oil pump i'm using is brand spanking new and is slot drive because the cam is slot drive.
the cam was originally bought because she wanted a nice torquey 998 engine, it originally had a 12g295 head on it also when she first used the cam, and to be quite frank the engine ran like a bucket of *******.
her ex bf's father told her this was the route to go down for torque, and set it up originally and built the engine for her, it always pinked and could barely break 60mph, when i adjusted the carb with a colour tune and adjusted the timing on the dizzy it ran a lot better and could break 60mph, but was still really flat.
(a hif 38 with a cooper manifold and rc40 exhaust was used aswell)
i am rebuilding this engine as a stop gap until her tuned 1100 is done, which will be having a much different and much better setup.
the 12g295 head wont be used on this engine as we will be using that on the 1100, this engine is having the a+ leaded head put on it, so performance isnt really gonna be much on this engine i'm building
#18
Posted 30 September 2010 - 02:20 PM
Sounds like Minisport all over! Cheap crap that they don't know anything about!
#19
Posted 01 October 2010 - 01:51 PM
The old 510 was a great cam in a 1275 'S'. In fact the 'works' used it in their rally cars for forest events on a lot of occasions. I used one in a 998 bored out to 1061 a while back, and with an original 295 head, gas-flowed, and a few other 'nice bits' it gave 68 bhp at 6000 rpm. It was a very smooth engine right through the range.
The correct timing for the 510 is 110 deg ATDC. Set it to 108 if also fitting a new chain and it'll be fine.
By the way, I've seen an aftermarket cam time in, dot-to-dot, at 9 degrees retarded. That is a not insignificant amount
'Do it right' is always good advice.
The correct timing for the 510 is 110 deg ATDC. Set it to 108 if also fitting a new chain and it'll be fine.
By the way, I've seen an aftermarket cam time in, dot-to-dot, at 9 degrees retarded. That is a not insignificant amount
'Do it right' is always good advice.
#20
Posted 01 September 2011 - 12:40 PM
just thought i would update this thread, should have done it ages ago really,
but, i did end up dialling the cam in properly, and it turned out that bmc had actually done there jobs and got the tdc pointers bang on lol
so after about an hour of fiddling, it turned out the stock dot to dot method would have been sufficient, but i am glad i done it that way as the engine is nice and smooth
but, i did end up dialling the cam in properly, and it turned out that bmc had actually done there jobs and got the tdc pointers bang on lol
so after about an hour of fiddling, it turned out the stock dot to dot method would have been sufficient, but i am glad i done it that way as the engine is nice and smooth
#21
Posted 01 September 2011 - 05:42 PM
If it was a BMC cam - I would fully expect it to be right with dot to dot. But a Minisport regrind........ well. Glad it was right - I've always used dot method - and then checked by measuring the overlap at TDC on the valves, and never found anything amiss. I suggest the first engine (the 'flat/pinking' one) possibly had the cam installed one tooth out!
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