21 replies to this topic

[KSTANDSTEVE]

1990 mini checkmate 998cc
Verto clutch

Ok firstly thanks for the help re bleeding the cutch. I resorted to "backfilling" the master cylinder by taking the top brake pipe off. This seemed to help flow thru the system and bled fine.

Now I have another problem. The clutch pedal has gone rock hard!

To back track I have had the engine out and fitted a new clutch and thrust bearing. All has been refitted and thought I was on the last leg of the rebuild.

After the engine was built up it has stood for about 6 months but doubt the plate has siezed onto the flywheel in such a short time.

I just hope its not another engine out job!

Any thoughts?

Steve

[Big_Adam]

Start from the top down I say.

Take of the clutch slave and get a friend (aka goon who can follow commands) and tell them to push the clutch SLOWLY, and feel if the slave piston moves. If it does, then move onto the clutch arm, which if its stuck will require lots of WD40 and swearing to shift.

[ado15]

Given the hydraulics bled through OK, it has to be something downstream of the slave. The slave could be seized, or the release lever, or the plunger through the end casing.

Firstly, disconnect the slave push rod from the release lever and gently push the clutch pedal. If it moves the push rod, your slave is OK. Be careful not to push too far though!

Then see if you can get a bar on the release lever and try to operate the clutch by hand. If you can't get on this, try to remove the lever pivot pin to see if is was seized.

Also, check the centre throw out nuts are adjusted correctly.

[KSTANDSTEVE]

Will a wife do

I take it I should remove the pin connecting the slave push rod to the clutch arm first?

Oh should have said the slave is brand new.

I havent touched the throw out nuts they are as pre rebuild - read somewhere that you dont have to adjust these on a verto clutch??

Edited by KSTANDSTEVE, 06 November 2010 - 09:39 AM.

[ado15]

Will a wife do

Usually, but mine doesn't take commands too well!

I havent touched the throw out nuts they are as pre rebuild - read somewhere that you dont have to adjust these on a verto clutch??

I would always reset these after changing anything in the clutch release mechanism (plunger, release bearing, etc).

[KSTANDSTEVE]

Will a wife do

Usually, but mine doesn't take commands too well!

I havent touched the throw out nuts they are as pre rebuild - read somewhere that you dont have to adjust these on a verto clutch??

I would always reset these after changing anything in the clutch release mechanism (plunger, release bearing, etc).

How do I adjust these?

[electricjim]

going on the year of your mini check the washer bottle first, if this is located right above the clutch arm and may have started leaking which would lead to corrosion and eventual seizing of the arm itself, i had this problem last month and yes the clutch pedal after 3 presses went rock solid.

i actually freed my arm by oiling the joint and leaving it for a while them working it with an improvised tool, i keep the joint oiled now and it seems to be ok, how ever i do now have a spare clutch arm and pushrod, be careful not to get any oil on the slave servo boot cover as i split mine and had to change it which involved a bit of fiddling around.

[KSTANDSTEVE]

Ok just checked as above. Disconnected the pin and pressed slowly on the pedal and the slave cylinder rod moves out fine.

So problem lies from lever arm onward.

I will try and free this as you say.

Also need to adust the throw out nuts.

I have noticed that there is no gap between the inner of these nuts and the clutch housing - not sure if thats right?

[ado15]

I have noticed that there is no gap between the inner of these nuts and the clutch housing - not sure if thats right?

Well, there is the basis of your problem.

I suspect the first time you pressed the pedal the clutch released, but either the lever or plunger has seized. So the next time you pressed it, the throw out nuts are already at full stroke.

[alex.gatton]

I've just had a very similar problem with my mini, after leaving her for six weeks whilst I was at uni...

For me, the reason was that the master cylider push rod was extended beyond its normal position. The clutch was disengaged, even though the pedal was up and rock solid.

In my case, took about 20mins:

- Push the rubber dust cover off the master cylinder push rod, clean the shaft with emerey paper and lubricate with copious amounts of copper-ease, and then replace the cover
- Squirt plus gas, or WD40 over the joint, where the push rod meets the clevis pin

At this point, you need to gain access to the bottom of the rod, so you can hammer the end back into the cylinder. I did this by:

- Jacking her up, remove the front right wheel
- From under the car, judge the trajectory of how the rod enters the cylinder, and drill a pilot hole into the thin metal side panel that is the front section of the wheel arch
- Using a small screwdriver, check that you have the right trajectory, and then file/drill the hole big enough to accomodate a suitable drift - in my case, a socket shaft
- Now give her a whack with a large hammer, and persevere! Took a good dozen blows for mine to free up!

And that was that... At least with this method you've got an access hole should the problem occurr again...

[electricjim]

i made this to gain access to the arm to work it, still had to remove the air vent and washer bottle first though

[KSTANDSTEVE]

Thanks for replies

Its prob going to be weekend now before i get back onto this.

What would cause the lever to jam? Bit worried even when i free it it might happen again.

[KSTANDSTEVE]

Anyone?

[KSTANDSTEVE]

OK just having another go at this.

The slave cylinder push rod is removed easily leaving the clutch lever jammed in the end of the clutch housing. So here is the problem.

I have sprayed the lever with release oil but it seems jammed in the "clutch pressed in position"

The arm does move slightly in and out but only fractionally.

I have tried a block of wood as a lever but cant get it to release.

Could drill the inner panel as suggested above but it does seem pretty solid.

Any ideas?

[Big_Adam]

I think you're getting to the point where its going to be simpler to strip the clutch out and sort it.