Dont say that adam - thats another engine out job

Clutch Pedal Rock Hard
Started by
KSTANDSTEVE
, Nov 06 2010 09:18 AM
21 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 14 November 2010 - 01:53 PM
#17
Posted 14 November 2010 - 04:36 PM
Dont say that adam - thats another engine out job
Not really, just have to jack part of the engine up for the last two bolts. You're really exhaust all other options at this point. You hit it, heated it, pulled it, swore at it.
I'd just bite the bullet and get on with it.
Also, just thinking, as its just occurred to me. You couldn't supply a picture of your clutch from top, might spot something you missed or someone else might.
#18
Posted 14 November 2010 - 07:35 PM
just had this problem. It was the plunger sticking after being sat a while. You need to get at the split pin that holds the clutch arm pivot pin, remove it, the pin. Before you do this though, remove the 2 big nuts that adjust the throw. Once the arm is out, check for wear on the ball of the arm and the pivot pin itself and replace as necessary.
Use some decent silicon spray oil (not wd40.. it's rubbish) to lube up the plunger, wipe it down, cover in coppaslip, reassemble the arm and with a big tube slipped over the arm, work it in and out to free it up. Give it a load more oil when it loosens up, reassemble and check the gap on the large nuts, and away you go. May I suggest putting the pivot pin in from the rear too so if it goes again then you can get the split pin out easier (you'll see what i mean when you try to remove that pin... it's a git.)
no need for engine out unless the clutch itself has gone.
Use some decent silicon spray oil (not wd40.. it's rubbish) to lube up the plunger, wipe it down, cover in coppaslip, reassemble the arm and with a big tube slipped over the arm, work it in and out to free it up. Give it a load more oil when it loosens up, reassemble and check the gap on the large nuts, and away you go. May I suggest putting the pivot pin in from the rear too so if it goes again then you can get the split pin out easier (you'll see what i mean when you try to remove that pin... it's a git.)
no need for engine out unless the clutch itself has gone.
#19
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:06 PM
Will try the arm refurb first before removing the clutch housing.
So when I remove the 2 nuts and the arm will the plunger come out?
So when I remove the 2 nuts and the arm will the plunger come out?
#20
Posted 15 August 2012 - 10:42 AM
Any resolution on this? I'm having the same problem
#21
Posted 15 August 2012 - 11:25 AM
Some sort of penetrating fluid and a hammer usually works.
Spray all around the clutch arm where it pivots on the clutch housing
Then tap the clutch arm back towards the engine. Can use the pedal to push it back out again.
Then tap back towards the engine..
keep repeating, this plus lube should free it off.
The alloy housing reacts with the steel arm / mechanism..seizes them up
Spray all around the clutch arm where it pivots on the clutch housing
Then tap the clutch arm back towards the engine. Can use the pedal to push it back out again.
Then tap back towards the engine..
keep repeating, this plus lube should free it off.
The alloy housing reacts with the steel arm / mechanism..seizes them up
#22
Posted 15 August 2012 - 11:44 AM
The problem on mine was just that. The mechanism was just sticking. Some wd40 and working the rod in/out worked a treat.
Basically my throw out nut was stuck hard against housing so when i was pressing the clutch it couldnt move anywhere. When I freed it up it was fine.
Basically my throw out nut was stuck hard against housing so when i was pressing the clutch it couldnt move anywhere. When I freed it up it was fine.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users