28 replies to this topic

[Guess-Works.com]

Cheap direct drive compressors are hellish noisy, the more expensive belt driven ones are a LOT quieter.

And screw or vane compressors are quieter than pistons...

Like this if you have enough room

Flash Git!!!

I tell you... when you can stand next to the thing, and talk to the person next to you.....

Only down side is, it's like a prestige car, the servicing costs are equivalent to the cost of a small family hatchback...

[Shifty]

Screw is better than vane.

If the vane type goes bang then its really game over, screw will take a bit more abuse!!

Who does your servicing? I do know a couple of companies who may be worth trying?

[Guess-Works.com]

Who does your servicing? I do know a couple of companies who may be worth trying?

Fortunately I have a local ABAC approved service centre, which also seems to be run by a car enthusiast ( apparently use to sponsor a Miglia )... happy days !!

[DAVEY_C]

i was using an aldi compressor untill i got an air cutoff.... with the tank full cutting only lasted about 10 seconds untill the disc wouldn't spin fast enough to cut and after about 30 seconds the tank was empty.... you need a compressor that will deliver a constant air suply, i would go for at least a 150l tank capacity if i were you.

[hustybusty]

I bought a v-twin Clarke 100ltr. Manual says it can be fitted with a 13amp plug. After constantly tripping the main ring I had an electrician install its own 16 amp breaker. It still trips that most of the time. Apparently you can get better breakers that account for the extra electric when it starts up. Really annoying and I never considered having the problem when I was out shopping for one so I would bare it in mind.

Also very noisy but acceptable in the day, I wouldn't run it after 10 though.

[camp freddy]

At the end of the day you should get the best you can afford. my dad got the one last sold
in Aldi, he sprayed his camper and was well impressed with it, use a HVLP gun.
As said always check the cfm of tools you'll be using and compare them with the
compressor stats.

[camp freddy]

this is my compressor, had to fit an independent 30amp feed as it kept tripping the
RCD,

[davidv]

Freddy yours looks good value and does a good respray i think.Few years old but a good work horse.Glad you got it running again.Some of the others are tops but the Cost.He would have to sell the car to get one and paint his nails with it.Good old belt does a good job for most.Secound hand is a good way.Even bust biz sales.I have found a fair few bargains on clearance sales.

[Guess-Works.com]

I agree, good second hand machines are worth their weight, my abac cam off ebay, but the tank I got of APEX for very little money

https://www.apexauct...ieRedirect=true

[NEW GUY]

unfortunately most people who want very occasional use do have to suffer noise other wise the investment out weighs the usage. Yes you possibly will get complaints from neighbours - try to find a friend with a barn.

If you go down the reciprocated route - bare in mind unless it's oil free they use oil and with either or any compressor you could really do with a water spinner then a filter followed by activated carbon filter for painting - Have seen some nice cars done with crude kit.

If your really serious about painting you really need to look at dryers too (does not look like your going commercial)- if it's cold in your Gargage etc.. you can get quite a lot of water in the air. Oh and then there's pressure regulators and possibly a lubricator for air tools do not mix lubricated air lines.

Unfortunately dull as it is I was a compressed air engineer and also have painted cars in my spare time.

Screw is the way to go if you can afford it but most are 3 phase unless you are very lucky to come across a 240 volt unit (price)

HPC are very good - the rest are a bit querky

Hydrovane is possibley the second best option - a good one is bullet proof but they are edging toward crude air quality.

The direct drive thing does bare much relevance - A piston machine is noisey regardless!

As far as the cheaper new portable piston machines go - if you look at the pump units - they usually all look very similar even from specialists and rather than strip them down - we would change the pump unit - time verses cost.

I would just go for a machine mart Job - do not run it constantly if you want to keep it for a long time - They get hot - things like the non return valves (rubber discs) go but are easy to replace.

[NEW GUY]

unfortunately most people who want very occasional use do have to suffer noise other wise the investment out weighs the usage. Yes you possibly will get complaints from neighbours - try to find a friend with a barn.

If you go down the reciprocated route - bare in mind unless it's oil free they use oil and with either or any compressor you could really do with a water spinner then a filter followed by activated carbon filter for painting - Have seen some nice cars done with crude kit.

If your really serious about painting you really need to look at dryers too (does not look like your going commercial)- if it's cold in your Gargage etc.. you can get quite a lot of water in the air. Oh and then there's pressure regulators and possibly a lubricator for air tools do not mix lubricated air lines.

Unfortunately dull as it is I was a compressed air engineer and also have painted cars in my spare time.

Screw is the way to go if you can afford it but most are 3 phase unless you are very lucky to come across a 240 volt unit (price)

HPC are very good - the rest are a bit querky

Hydrovane is possibley the second best option - a good one is bullet proof but they are edging toward crude air quality.

The direct drive thing does bare much relevance - A piston machine is noisey regardless!

As far as the cheaper new portable piston machines go - if you look at the pump units - they usually all look very similar even from specialists and rather than strip them down - we would change the pump unit - time verses cost.

I would just go for a machine mart Job - do not run it constantly if you want to keep it for a long time - They get hot - things like the non return valves (rubber discs) go but are easy to replace.

camp freddies machine is a good classic example - will go for ever and turns over more slowly than the new stuff - more of a thudder than a high revving two stroke style alumium modern thing.

Hey if any one wants machines servicing and looking at - including pipe work in and around Northants.I could do that - I've worked for the three of largest distributors in the country for many years - and was one of the top installers. I've also specked systems and supplied kit.

Sorry still getting used to this forum - did not mean to repost like this

Edited by NEW GUY, 23 November 2010 - 11:09 AM.

[sonikk4]

I bought a v-twin Clarke 100ltr. Manual says it can be fitted with a 13amp plug. After constantly tripping the main ring I had an electrician install its own 16 amp breaker. It still trips that most of the time. Apparently you can get better breakers that account for the extra electric when it starts up. Really annoying and I never considered having the problem when I was out shopping for one so I would bare it in mind.

Also very noisy but acceptable in the day, I wouldn't run it after 10 though.

Can relate to this, was recommended by the Machine Mart tech guys to install the 16 amp blue plug which i did and although it still blows the fuse every now and then it is better. The unit itself is very noisy and even under my bench with a cover over the front still loud but thats life and now that i no longer use it through a separate water trap it runs my high speed grinder, Desoutter windies and DA sander fine. Also good for stone chipping.

[NEW GUY]

I was a 16th edition electrification one of many qualifications require in M and E as a compressed air engineer (not in that game now) - some electricians insist on arguing this (I have had one argue a brand new motor was had it (kept tripping) before we put a huge circuit braker in just to prove the point (dangerous) it's (START UP SURGE) They often do not understand what is happening mechanically that influences the electrical side and it takes a good meter to pick up a voltage spike and the hold the value as it happens quicker than you can blink. This is not the answer just proved the motor was not at fault was the supply.

A compressor will pull a big load when it first starts - common sense - some more than others (That's why most industrial stuff is now variable speed, massive money savings running a huge motor at lower RPM when less air is required rather than running a motor flat out but opening and shutting an intake valve = on/off load then shutting down on a timer and drawing loads of current on start up. Digressed a bit into big industrial screw compressors then.

Anyway - raising fuse ratings or plugs to compensate is a dangerous game. The circuit breaker will still hold in while significant damage occurs during a fault and compressors do eventually burn out motors. A 13 amp cable with 32 amp breaker is not advisable (although a lot of slightly bigger domestic compressors still require 16amp - basically it's boils down to the hp of the motor- but a compressor should run at the amps stated - It will pull more on start up but not more than the max amps. I can not remember the max hp any more but it's not much more than 1.5HP. I could usually physically tell buy the size of a motor or the size of the tank or pump.

The correct way used to be to fit a type D motor rated circuit breaker. Which will allow a machine to pull a bigger load /or delay for surge on start up (can not remember the exact details) It will still protect it at the correct amps under normal running conditions - is actually listed in the install notes in some manuals definitely HPC and Ingersoll rand[/b]

Things have moved on a bit now a lot of bigger machines are now variable speed - I'm talking the size of a fridge freeze to the size of a single garage.

Some smaller portable piston compressors have a capacitor or two to bump start the motor but some times the valve between the head and the receiver/tank (rubber disc /non -return valve is leaking) The noise you would hear on start up - Which sound like leaking air (hissing as the piston goes up and down) "that's normal" - but if it's doing that all the time it's running. Means when she kicks back in with air in the tank the motor is working against compressed air - it should work a bit like a decompression lever on a four stroke single motor cycle. Although it would also mean it struggles to make pressure from an empty tank. All compressors have a form of non return valve to stop the motor starting loaded

All will cause tripping. Unfortunately a lot of companies staff are not properly trained to fix some machinery - nor are a lot of smaller compressor companies. I've seen small companies employ guys with no experience. It's actually very very involved when you get into the really big stuff (very expensive and dangerous) hence years of training.

Boring I know.. well it's nice to know something even if the basics are almost forgotten.

Hope that makes sense and not to confusing is easy to misunderstand random ramblings

How about S155 steel or T6 steel for drive shafts?? trying to suss out metal properties at the minute

Edited by NEW GUY, 23 November 2010 - 09:47 PM.

[hustybusty]

Anyway - raising fuse ratings or plugs to compensate is a dangerous game. The circuit breaker will still hold in while significant damage occurs during a fault and compressors do eventually burn out motors. A 13 amp cable with 32 amp breaker is not advisable (although a lot of slightly bigger domestic compressors still require 16amp - basically it's boils down to the hp of the motor- but a compressor should run at the amps stated - It will pull more on start up but not more than the max amps. I can not remember the max hp any more but it's not much more than 1.5HP. I could usually physically tell buy the size of a motor or the size of the tank or pump.

The correct way used to be to fit a type D motor rated circuit breaker. Which will allow a machine to pull a bigger load /or delay for surge on start up (can not remember the exact details) It will still protect it at the correct amps under normal running conditions - is actually listed in the install notes in some manuals definitely HPC and Ingersoll rand[/b]

Thats helpfull (to me at least, thanks)