24 replies to this topic

[breskit]

Model:Mini 1000
Year:1977
Struggling to remove the engine

Hi folks. I've tried searching the forum before posting this and you'd be surprised the number of threads returned with 'engine' in them., so I'm sorry if this has been answered before but with no service manual I just need a bit of quick advice on remving my engine. The engine is a standard 1000cc mini - not sure of exact model as I don't have the V5 just yet. The original owner has lost it and I've not yet applied to DVLA for a new one.

So my question(s) is this.

I have started to take the top off the engine and have now removed carb, exhaust manifold, cylinder head, starter motor, alternator, radiator and now need to disconnect things from inderneath.

Can someone advise how I need to remove the driveshafts from the gearbox? I also need to disconnect the gear linkage, but is there a special way I have to do this? Oh, and then the engine mounts.

Finally, is that all I need to disconnect before I can remove the engine? Hoping to get a mate round to help lift it out (no crane!) once it's all disconnected.

Thanks in advance.

Tony B

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My previous exploit here.

[Big_Adam]

If you want the simple method, just split the POT joints (big black things sticking out the side of the gearbox), undo the clip holding the boot on and they slide out.

Just make sure not to drop any of the ball bearings off the drive shaft and you're good to go.

Also check the battery cable, mine was connected to the bottom of the flywheel housing and was a bit of a pain to remove.

[breskit]

When you say split the POT joints, how do they split?

[dribble]

undo the wheels top ball joint, then just pull the drive shafts out the pot joints. Might need i lever bar or pot joint tool, but it should be easy to do.

[JustSteve]

undo the wheels top ball joint, then just pull the drive shafts out the pot joints. Might need i lever bar or pot joint tool, but it should be easy to do.

I found undoing the bottom ball joint was much easier.

[cooperrodeo]

That little lot should weigh about 105kg and you have to lift it quite high.

[Guess-Works.com]

Ideally you will need a crane, without, I suggest removing the drive shafts and hubs completely, as above, it's a lot of weight to lift and jiggle about to get round the drive shafts...

Get hold of a sturdy fence post and straps, sling under the engine and secure then two strong adults can lift then engine out, you will need to lift it about 2ft (60cm) to get clearance over the front valance...

[Guess-Works.com]

ps.. Empty the oil first..

[Timtom]

me and my brother lifted mine. it was jolly heavy but we used a fence post and took all the extra parts off first to lighten it a bit - starter, alternator, etc

[MRA]

You neither need to split the inner CV or remove any ball joints.......... if you have inner CV as opposed to crusifix or Hardy Spicer types then you only need to remove the inner CV from the gearbox, using a large lever or chisel (blunt is best) then sliding it down the gearbox side of the black steel inner CV and the aluminium outer side diff cover a sharp tap will pop it out......

If you choose to cut the boot clip off you run the risk of getting dirt, grit, etc into the joint, also if it has done any mileage at all it will be bedded in to that specific location and orientation disturbing this will result in accelerated wear rates. If the joint is worn the balls can also have a tendency to fall out at this stage.....

[Ethel]

There's a link to a Manual, of sorts, pinned at the front of this section. If you plan on reusing the pot joints, I'd lever them from the gearbox - after draining the oil!

Also get on with sorting that V5, in case there's a load of back duty waiting for you!!

When I've lifted engines "ghetto style", I've used a garage roof beam (braced, if needed) or made a tripod to sling a rope over and used a jack under the sump to do the actual lifting - assuming you have room to push the car clear before lowering.

[breskit]

Thanks for the replies folks.

Having taken another look at the wheel hubs, I think the bottom ball joint looks easiest to take off. Hopefully I should be able to pop the drive shafts out of the gearbox once I have the wheel hub disengaged.

Oil & water is already drained and the enigne has been made lighter by taking off the head, starter, alternator, etc which should leave just the block and gearbox to remove.

I'll try and see if I can get the drive shafts out later tonight (after football!).

[breskit]

You neither need to split the inner CV or remove any ball joints.......... if you have inner CV as opposed to crusifix or Hardy Spicer types then you only need to remove the inner CV from the gearbox, using a large lever or chisel (blunt is best) then sliding it down the gearbox side of the black steel inner CV and the aluminium outer side diff cover a sharp tap will pop it out......

Hmm...as I'm new to all this mini lark, that needs to be explained in more simple terms. As far as I can see there is a drive shaft connected to a CV joint that then inserts into the wheel hub. I haven't a clue as to what type/make it is other than the dirty oily type!

Would I be right in thinking that the castle nut on the outside of the hub doesn't need removing if I simply remove the drive shaft & CV joint as one?

[MRA]

The dirty oily type is more commonly the inner which is a sliding Birfield joint..... the outer CV joint is a non sliding Birfield type and is more commonly a little rusty but can equally be oily and dirty in

If you can find an early 80's Haynes manual rather than the later type which seems to "miss out" a little helpfull info....... you can see what is meant.

However to list it out by hand it will probably be safer / easier to remove hubs, this is in no means necessary, but you would need a 3rd pair of hands.

[Guess-Works.com]

wrong end of the drive shaft....