195 replies to this topic

[BusheyTrader]

Well the seatbelt mounting was plug welded to the inner sill repair panel then welded down the 4 sides to make sure its strong.

Then the swan neck on my Mig crumbled as I removed the copper tip and it was game over for the weekend...... ? Welding the sill into the car will have to wait a bit longer.

At least the guys were helpful at WeldUk as I ordered another one from them this evening.

Adam

[jagman.2003]

Great work being done here, looking good.

[BusheyTrader]

Thanks for the encouragement......I've stomped in from the garage a couple of times after throwing away homemade repair pieces that took me hours to cut and shape only to blow holes in or grind too thin when dressing down the weld. Rebuild threads like yours help me keep it methodical and work through one problem at a time. It's not one big project, just 1,000's of little ones. This is my first major rebuild so it's a case of cutting and replacing single pieces or smaller areas so I don't lose any reference points.


The Mig's new swan neck appeared the day after ordering so I tested the mig on some scrap sheet to ensure all was well. Awful, all my previous settings were rubbish and the garage was lit up like bonfire night with a 1,000 sparklers as I just blew holes everywhere. No sizzling bacon sound, just machine gun fire. (does it ever sound like bacon? I've never got there)

The replacement metal liner I bought for my mig some months ago is just a push fit at the bottom, not a screw fit as the original pvc one. Refitting the new neck had backed out the liner from it's seal and the gas took the easy option of flowing out the bottom of the hose and not up the torch. Hence the firework show. I've now made a crude leaf spring from sheet steel, pushing up against the liner keeping it in place.

Has the edit option been taken away? No second chance after posting?

Edit: Aha it's reappeared......

Adam

Edited by BusheyTrader, 24 September 2011 - 07:08 AM.

[yeti21586]

Please don't solder the wiring, crimping is the correct why to do it, solder just goes brittle and then can crack and break off leaving you with no electrics or worse if wires arche you could have a burnt out mini.

Me and my dad are in the middle of re-wiring my mini from scratch, and we were going to solder untill warned by a fellow TMF member

Project looks good keep it up, I love seeing minis progress from rust to riches lol

YetI

[BusheyTrader]

Errrr.....I haven't gone near the wiring as everything's been about welding so far, no soldering.

But, I've had classic cars for over 25 years and the most issues you get with them are electrical and down to corroded, dirty or loose connections. Myself and others I know do the opposite to your recommendation and shy away from crimped connections especially in exposed areas. They often work loose from the wires creating problems. A connector that's been soldered on to the wire and has a crimped collar to to help take the strain and vibration can last for years even when subject to a harsh engine bay.

Anyway, just my preference.

[Daviewonder]

Nice project so far Adam, looks like it's coming on steadily.

It's not one big project, just 1,000's of little ones.

I will try and remember this quote for the rest of my life as it makes huge tasks seem much less daunting

Dave

[BusheyTrader]

Thanks Dave,

Sometimes I think coming on steadily = "oh so slow" at times.......

The driver's side inner sill / floorpan repair sections are now welded in from A post to B post. In true belt and braces fashion I butt welded them to the floorpan from above and below even though the weld penetration appeared good first time round. I just wanted to make sure it was good and solid, especially since it anchors the seat belt.

The inner sill is the third side of the Toblerone tube keeping the sills stiff. The problem with Spike is that there wasn't much of the outer sill and doorstep panel keeping the inner sill company . Since the outer sill had as much integrity as a Crunchie bar, most of it just fell off. I welded in a 4mm thick steel bar to brace the door opening only to realise later that it'll only work under tension since it's not an L profile . I cut out and replaced the inner sill at the front, rear and then across the crossmember (lots of Bilthamber zinc paint inside that) to minimise any movement. I'll be welding the new jacking point and front sill stiffener on once I'm ready for the outer sill.

I've now got to sort out the rusty inner sill / floorpan under the companion bin. There's rust on the spot welds under the floor pan but the bin itself and closing plate / stiffener appear to be in good shape. I'm about to cut out more metal from below and have a look.

I forgot to take the pictures before leaving the garage so will post them tomorrow.

Adam

[BusheyTrader]

Couldn't edit my post to enter the pictures.....





I've now got a big hole in the bottom of the driver's side companion bin waiting for fresh metal. The outside of the inner sill underneath it was heavy with rust and close to perforation. Inside the bin seems rust free. (Why is it called a Companion Bin? Very 1950's ) Once I've got this patched up I'll make a start on the doorstep panel to put some strength back in.

Adam

[BusheyTrader]

Floor and inner sill cut out from underneath the companion bin.


view from above


repair panel cut and folded from below


and above


The flanges inside the bin have been wire brushed down to shiny metal, treated with Bilthamber rust convertor as there was the tiniest amount of surface rust and sprayed with weldthru primer. The repair panel has been drilled for plug welding to the flanges and holes drilled for Cleco pins to help keep it in place.

How can cutting and folding a small piece of metal 230 x 165mm, and prepping it for welding take so long? (5 hours |) Maybe I should have cut 3 separate rectangles of metal and welded them together where the folds are in the single piece? Underneath will be hidden by the outer sill and above by the companion bin's interior trim. Ho hum.

Adam

Edited by BusheyTrader, 11 October 2011 - 06:48 PM.

[Hikari Warrior]

Looking good, Adam!
You're doing a cracking job

Tony

[BusheyTrader]

Cheers Tony. Good to see that The Junker will be on the road soon. Impressive stuff.


I wasn't happy with the brace across the driver's side whilst working on the sills underneath. It could only work if it was stretched under tension since there's no resistance if the gap closes up.

Simple solution when I eventually thought of it. I had almost the same length of 4mm bar left over, so I clamped the remainder on the inside of the existing brace to form a "T" shape and welded it in place. I turned up the Mig to max power to let loose some serious heat and make a seriously rigid brace. After learning how to weld 0.9mm sheet steel and blowing so many holes in the process, welding 4mm bar was so easy.

Adam

[BusheyTrader]

The much perforated doorstep panel didn't need much persuasion to fall off plus I cut off the bottom of the quarter panel. The driver's door was refitted on its original hinges so I could position the combined doorstep / quarter repair panel in the right place for welding but it was a very tight fit with next to no clearance at the rear of the door.



Help came from PanelBeaterPeter on the bodywork forum, http://www.theminifo...howtopic=204845 After beating back the A post I've increased the rear door gap to ~1.5mm so far. A bit more work will hopefully put it right without overdoing it.

[BusheyTrader]

Ok,

Using these,



I've persuaded the A post further forward.....The doorskin looks parallel to the quarter panel but I might have to "adjust" the profile of my home fabricated A pillar repair piece as there's not a lot of clearance.

Using the pound coin assessment as advised.



Hopefully that's job done for the door alignment so I can offer up the doorstep for fitting.

Adam

[Eddy029]

Nice car, I've also got a 1994 Cooper in BRG, but it seems I've been a bit luckier on the bodywork!

[BusheyTrader]

Thanks Eddy but I think there's more rust and primer on Spike than BRG paint now.

I know its a Mini cliche but I think he'll eventually wear the more common red / white roof combo once he's completed. I used to pass by a Cooper S in the same colours regularly where I grew up and it stuck on me.

Adam