26 replies to this topic

[danrock101]

Basicly providing you have a lcb or similar and half decent exhaust, then a 1 3/4 su or twin 1 1/2 or weber 40 + a, a 276 duration cam and have a good enough fuel pump and a re-curved dissy and every thing else is in good condition, the only reason it wont produce well over 100bhp is because of the head. I currently have a MED rally head but I only ended up with that because it was second hand, so it was for a decent price, I'll run the engine in then I'll either tweak this one, port my own or get smart performance to do a full race head.
Wether you turbo your engine or not would really depend on what power you want, and what power you want after that. Me personally, as I said, I'm building a n/a motor first then I'll change a few parts in the n/a motor in the future and probably turbo it.

People forget to budget for things like fuel pump and pressure regulator, you're looking at over £100 for these, then you need another £100 (or £50 for a chinese alloy one) for a radiator, another £60 od for a oil cooler if you want to run one. You've probably not got a LCB manifold if you have a 998 so another £50-100, There's loads more stuff but my point is it's fairly easy and cheap ? to covert to turbo if you already have a high powered engine so maybe build a decent n/a a-series then if you want a load more power force it in

Edited by danrock101, 30 December 2010 - 12:12 AM.

[the.stroker]

my 1380 reached over 100 bhp at the wheels , is running stage 4 head,296 cam,webber 45,and a nice full miglia exhaust system to help it breath.

[danrock101]

my 1380 reached over 100 bhp at the wheels , is running stage 4 head,296 cam,webber 45,and a nice full miglia exhaust system to help it breath.

I meant to ask you, who did your cylinder head? lol (I meant to ask before I got the MED one but still interested lol)

[E.L.M.O]

Get the mini Films DVD and build that 1380 100bhp 100lbs or torque motor?

[mattso118]

Get the mini Films DVD and build that 1380 100bhp 100lbs or torque motor?

Could you actually build an engine just on the info given in that dvd? I've heard a few people say it misses out key areas of the build.

[E.L.M.O]

Hopefully not! As this is the reason I was looking to buy it!

[all4sreturns]

Just for info. I have had built a 1380cc block with 276 cam, ported MG metro head, and twin 1 3/4 carbs, so should reach in the region of over 100bhp@flywheel with correct timing, with any luck.
I am not completely sure whether my standard mechanical fuel pump (from the original 1275) will be up to the job, or if I will need an uprated one, plus maybe a fuel pressure regulator?? That's something I will have to look into. And yourself with uprated engines.
Neil.

[danrock101]

my fuel pump was struggling at 58bhp at the wheels think it was a bit of a dud one though, I've heard they're ok up to about 90bhp but at this power I'd personally run a leccy one + regulator

[samsfern]

an electric facet cylindrical type one will do the job, no need for a regulator either, for a naturally aspirated engine.

Edited by samsfern, 30 December 2010 - 11:30 PM.

[Cooperman]

I use a twin Facit road-type pumps, but normally only have one switched on. It handles 11 to 12 mpg on the tests without any problem. I think a single pump delivers 4.5 gallons per hour which represents an excess of capacity. If you were to run a 1380 with, say, a 4.3 diff, 8-port head, twin Webers,, etc, a road-Facit could just about run out of capability on a standing-start 1/4 mile drag. I use the second as a standby pump piped in parallel with completely separate electrical supply.

[all4sreturns]

Excellent, thanks for the replies! It looks like an electric fuel pump needed then !

[samsfern]

at least with an electric fuel pump, you dont have the risk of the mechanical one leaking fuel into the engine/gearbox. You will also need a fuel pump blanking plate as well, you can buy one or their easy enough to make.