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Water Temperature Gauges :)


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#1 Tripyrenees

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 12:48 PM

Hello !!

I have an early 80's mini with the single speedo in the center. I have bought a Tachometer and a Vacuum meter and now i wish to add a Temperature Gauge. The only problem is i don't know which one i need. There are two types, electric and capillary, can i put any one of them on ? What connections would i need or modifications need to be done when putting it in ? i haven't the slightest clue about how it works, especially the electric one.

Thank you for any future help :)

Lewis

#2 Ethel

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:16 PM

You can fit either, I'd opt for the electric one, likely to be more durable and easier to disconnect if needed. If it's a kit it should come with instructions, an original Mini gauge can share the voltage stabiliser for the fuel gauge. The original sensor in the head has a 5/8unf thread.

#3 Tripyrenees

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:28 PM

You can fit either, I'd opt for the electric one, likely to be more durable and easier to disconnect if needed. If it's a kit it should come with instructions, an original Mini gauge can share the voltage stabiliser for the fuel gauge. The original sensor in the head has a 5/8unf thread.


An electric Tim water temperature gauge is what it think i'll go for then thank you ! , it says it comes with : Includes sender unit @1/8" NPT , is there anything else i would need for it then, i don't think i have an original sensor everything is blanked, all the little nuts and bolts ...

Thank you

#4 dklawson

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:32 PM

As Ethel said, it is easier to install the electric gauge. However, the mechanical type can be easier to read and more accurate... particularly if you opt for a gauge with 270 degrees of needle sweep. However, accuracy isn't that important on most cars. You really just need to know what is normal for your car and when something changes... you don't need to know within 1/2 degree what the operating temperature is. Installing a mechanical gauge is a lot of work. Remember that you must never cut or break the capillary tube between the expansion bulb and the gauge head.

If you use an electric Smiths temp gauge as Ethel suggested, it will need to be connected to the 10V output of the voltage stabilizer. An aftermarket gauge will typically be connected to a switched 12V supply. If you use an aftermarket gauge be sure that it comes with a sending unit or make sure you buy the compatible sending unit. Do NOT expect the Mini's Smiths sending unit to work with the aftermarket gauge. It will not be calibrated to match.

If you go for a mechanical gauge you may need the spacer/adapter for the cylinder head. The part number for that adapter is 11K2846. It moves the tip of the mechanical gauge's expansion bulb out a bit from the inside walls of the cylinder head water jacket.

#5 Ethel

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:50 PM

I can't remember for the life of me if the head is drilled for the sensor if there's no gauge, I expect it is. You could use an adapter, as DK mentions, drill and tap the head, or fit an adapter elsewhere - later Min's have sensors in the thermostat housing.

#6 ibrooks

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 02:30 PM

An electric Tim water temperature gauge is what it think i'll go for then thank you ! , it says it comes with : Includes sender unit @1/8" NPT , is there anything else i would need for it then, i don't think i have an original sensor everything is blanked, all the little nuts and bolts ...

Thank you


Electric are far less tricksy than capillary and te capillary tubes are downright fragile so yes that's probably be best choice.

It will need a stable voltage supply. As others have mentioned this should already be catered for with the other gauges so you may be able to piggy-back from there or you will need a voltage stabiliser. You can get a solid state one from ebay for around a fiver including postage and these are far better than the original bi-metallic strip ones that were fitted to older cars like your Mini. You could buy one and just use it for this gauge or use it to run all the gauges if the current one is a bi-metallic type. It's worth noting that it will "work" fine without a stable supply but you may see the gauge move as the engine speed increases or decreases and as other electrical equipment is switched on and off. You just need to understand that the temp isn't really changing but the gauges reference scale is changing.

The 1/8npt refers to the thread on the sender that is coming with the gauge. They are a matched pair so you will need to use that one. You will need a hole leading into the water jacket of the engine for that sender to screw into. If the normal hole in the head of the Mini is drilled and tapped then it's likely 5/8UNF which is what the original Mini sender's thread was (again already mentioned). You will need an adapter. Europa sell them for a pound or two (they usually go to Bingley so if you are planning to attend they may be able to arrange to make sure they take one with them and you can collect to save on postage).

Iain

#7 dklawson

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 02:48 PM

Just repeating a minor point here....

The TIM electric gauge will not need to be (and should not be) connected to a voltage stabilizer. The TIM gauge will have its own built in voltage regulator/stabilizer. The TIM gauge should be connected to a full 12V supply as it will say on its instruction sheet. If you choose a Smiths gauge instead, that WILL need to be connected to the regulated 10V output from the voltage stabilizer.

#8 Tripyrenees

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 03:29 PM

Thank you for your help !!

Because i already have 2 Tim gauges it will surely be another Tim one to keep in the same family. I'll try and get the adapter and hopfully there is a hole waiting for it to be screwed in to. Just a shame i live in France, would love to go to some of those mini shows :'( ...

Lewis

#9 Ethel

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Posted 05 January 2011 - 03:50 PM

It may come with a suitable adapter

#10 maggies_minder

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 11:25 AM

im looking at getting one of these guages, am i right in thinking if i use one, then the original water temp guage next to the fuel guage will have to be disconnected unless some form of modification is under taken?

#11 L400RAS

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 11:29 AM

im looking at getting one of these guages, am i right in thinking if i use one, then the original water temp guage next to the fuel guage will have to be disconnected unless some form of modification is under taken?

When I fitted a Tim water gauge, I fitted a new thermostat sandwich plate, with a sensor tap. This allowed me to retain the original factory gauge.

#12 maggies_minder

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 12:11 PM

im looking at getting one of these guages, am i right in thinking if i use one, then the original water temp guage next to the fuel guage will have to be disconnected unless some form of modification is under taken?

When I fitted a Tim water gauge, I fitted a new thermostat sandwich plate, with a sensor tap. This allowed me to retain the original factory gauge.


do you have a link for that sandwich plate?

#13 L400RAS

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 12:17 PM

im looking at getting one of these guages, am i right in thinking if i use one, then the original water temp guage next to the fuel guage will have to be disconnected unless some form of modification is under taken?

When I fitted a Tim water gauge, I fitted a new thermostat sandwich plate, with a sensor tap. This allowed me to retain the original factory gauge.


do you have a link for that sandwich plate?


Sorry, i meant my thermostat housing was tapped for a sensor. This states it only fits 1275cc. Does not state what htread size has been tapped.

#14 maggies_minder

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 12:50 PM

have you got any pics of it? sorry to be a pain.

#15 L400RAS

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 12:54 PM

have you got any pics of it? sorry to be a pain.

Sold the car now, sorry.




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