4 replies to this topic

[hulahoop]

I'm getting the dreaded rubbing noise when enthusiastically taking roundabouts.

So look to replace rear bushes but thinking that I should do a long term fix by fitting performance bushes i.e lumps of hard plastic.

I can't think what the drawbacks would be on the rear and why you wouldn't want solid bushes on all minis when replacing them.

Perhaps enables the wheel bearing to wear more quickly?






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hula

[dklawson]

I'm not sure I follow you. Perhaps it's the terminology.

The radius arms are the "L" shaped castings which allow the rear wheel to move up and down. They have a bronze sleeve bushing inside one end and a needle-roller bearing on the other. There is no plastic there. The suspension trumpets connect to a nylon plastic cup that goes in a pocket on the arms.

I think what you may be talking about are the rear subframe mounts. I know at some point spacers were added between the subframe and body. There are aftermarket kits that replace these with solid bits. I can't comment about whether or not they're a good investment.

[philster]

solid mounts are only any good if the shell is 100%, as a daily driver i wouldn't even think about it, with all the forces on the shell from our crappy roads, speed humps and the like it puts a lot of stress on the mounting areas, what you usually get if the shell is perfect are cracks in the metal, then the water gets in and they start to rust.

The deflex yellow bushes would be better than solid mounting on a road car, at least they have some give in them and would last a lot longer than rubber.

[hulahoop]

yep, I was talking rubbish. I was going on memory and got a little confused. The Bearings that surround the shaft pin in the radius arm are of course what has worn and these are what need to be replaced.


You're right I dont think replacing the subframe mounts with solid ones is going to offer any improvement whatsoever.

Just a case of ordering two reconditioned arms to fit.

[Dan]

When you get your re-con arms check them very carefully. There's a company out there at the moment supplying the dealers with recon arms which are built wrong. They should have a needle roller bearing at one end and a metal bush at the other. The dodgy ones have needle rollers both ends and won't last as long. The bush is much better than the needle bearing for this application. Also check that you can fill them with grease before you fit them (put the rubber bands on, fit the thrust washers the right way round and tighten the nuts up on the shaft before trying to pump grease into them). Finding out the grease tube is broken or missing after fitting the arm is very very annoying. I speak from experience on that one sadly.