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New Electronic Ignition. Now He Won't Start!


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#16 ministe

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 07:27 PM

Anymore ideas on this? Still haven't sorted it out. :thumbsup:

#17 ministe

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 06:42 PM

Right guys, I've taken a video of the noise the car is making...


Once the ignition is turned the lights go out. The noise is definitely coming from near the dizzy.

I've tried turning the distributer a few degrees anti-clockwise but it was no better.

Any ideas? :)

#18 monkey

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 07:00 PM

I think that clicking noise would be the starter solenoid clicking. Are you sure all the connections on the starter solenoid/motor are all correct still?

#19 lrostoke

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 07:08 PM

That clicking sounds like solenoid, even with timing out I would expect starter to try turn thats not getting that far.
Keep ignition off for now not needed for following test.
As a test get a beefy screwdriver and join it across the two large threaded terminals on the solenoid. This will byepass solenoid and starter should spin. Just be careful with the screwdriver cause if it touches any earth points it will short .
If it doesn't spin it suggest bad battery connection or earth or flat battery.

Edited by lrostoke, 07 March 2011 - 07:11 PM.


#20 TronVader

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 07:44 PM

I have a 78 Mini and have just installed the electronic ignition on it. 25D Dizzy

I am not really great with cars, but the guy who did the majority of the restoration work, said that this part would be easy. He won't give me any further info, and has been very hard to contact recently.

I have all the parts installed, I have the + of the dizzy attached to the + of the coil, the - of the dizzy on the - of the coil, then a new wire running from the fuse to the + on the coil...

Now where I am confused is there should be a third wire running to the + of the coil correct? Where does it run to? The starter solenoid?

Right now only the ignition relay clicks when I try and start the car. There is power to the coil, but nothing more. Any info here would be GREAT! I will try turning the dizzy as suggested above, but if there is any new information on what worked, I would appreciate the knowledge!

I have tried using the diagram Posted Image, but confused as to where the wire actually connects. If there is an actual photo of this, I would appreciate it greatly!! Thank you.

Edited by TronVader, 09 April 2011 - 07:48 PM.


#21 tommy13

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 08:36 PM

Right guys, I've taken a video of the noise the car is making...


Once the ignition is turned the lights go out. The noise is definitely coming from near the dizzy.

I've tried turning the distributer a few degrees anti-clockwise but it was no better.

Any ideas? :thumbsup:

The noise you are getting is indicative of a flat battery. I know you have tried jump leads, but are they any good? (cheap ones are useless in my experience). You could try connecting them again, directly to the engine for the earth and onto the solenoid ( other end of the main battery lead)for the positive. This should by-pass any bad connections between the battery and starter.
If you have a voltmeter attach this to the battery and note the voltage when the starter is engaged, it should remain above 9 volts.

#22 ministe

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Posted 07 May 2011 - 04:18 PM

Update on this...


I've finally got the car to start. A new battery and a new battery earth cable got him sorted. But now the car wont run by itself. :D

The only way to keep him running is to keep my foot on the accelerator pedal and this will only just keep him ticking over. Also, the rev counter is still flickering when you first turn the ignition on.

Any ideas guys?

#23 ministe

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 06:10 AM

Cheeky bump.

#24 lrostoke

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Posted 08 May 2011 - 08:19 AM

Have you checked the timing ??

#25 ministe

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 02:54 PM

Ok, a long time ago but I've finally got him running again.

A mixture of a new battery, new battery and engine earth as well as adjusting the dizzy while the car was running has worked!

However, he seems slightly underpowered and no longer likes running withe the choke out? Is this simply due to the setup of the carb? I ask this because the rev counter needle still flickers when the ignition is turned.

Any help is appreciated, and thanks for helping getting my mini back on the road!

#26 ministe

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Posted 30 June 2011 - 08:51 PM

bump?

#27 ministe

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Posted 02 July 2011 - 08:57 AM

Another bump!

#28 ministe

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Posted 02 July 2011 - 10:28 AM

Here is a quick video of which wires go where on the coil. Could someone check this out please!?


#29 lrostoke

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Posted 02 July 2011 - 12:52 PM

Its pretty hard follow a shakey vid.

But from what I can see the conversion is same design as all the others out there.

Britpart / ebay / Aldon

All of these require a seperate 12v feed to that red wire that goes to the dizzy.

Off your fuse box run a new wire from the fuse with the white wire and green wire. Connect the red wire off the dizzy to this wire. Do not connect it to the coil.

On the coil the positive side looks ok appart from the red wire off the dizzy being connected to it.

the negative side of coil the white/black wire goes down through the loom and connects to the black wire on the dizzy.




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