Ball Joints
#1
Posted 10 March 2011 - 05:40 PM
Also, if i do have to faff, is there a marked difference in the standard ones in minisport and the genuine ones in minisport. (apart from £10)
Also, the minispares ones don't come with grease nipples... what the hell?!
cheers for all help.
Mike
1985 mini mayfair, 1275, mk1 look-a-like.
#2
Posted 10 March 2011 - 06:16 PM
#3
Posted 10 March 2011 - 07:45 PM
#4
Posted 10 March 2011 - 08:37 PM
None of the ball joint sets available come with the nipples, we are just nice enough to let people know whilst making the purchase....
The ones I got from MRA via ebay did.
#5
Posted 10 March 2011 - 08:49 PM
#6
Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:43 PM
Edited by MIRVINE11, 10 March 2011 - 10:46 PM.
#7
Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:53 PM
Whats wrong wih the non-genuine ones? are the genuine ones lapped in?? And how do you add grease then?
1. Probably nothing
2. No
3. With a finger as you put them together and afterwards with a grease gun
#8
Posted 10 March 2011 - 10:58 PM
#9
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:15 PM
Whats wrong wih the non-genuine ones? are the genuine ones lapped in?? And how do you add grease then?
Quote from Keith Calver:
"The ball-joints (swivel pins). How tight the pin should be once the cup-nut is torqued up has been the subject of much discussion. Some say they should be just moveable with thumb pressure - either one or two – dependant on the individual. And how strong your thumbs are! Some say this test should be made with a ring spanner placed over the pin – but how long a handled spanner, and how much pressure? All very inaccurate and un-scientific. Even using the method described in the workshop manual gives varying results (try it – hours of entertainment guaranteed). Checking the ball-joints on a brand new suspension set-up revealed them to be VERY tight indeed.
It also depends on the quality of the ball joints. Some after-market items are horrendously made – the swivel pin ‘ball’ sections having a very ‘ribbed’ finish or badly ground grease path - giving rise to un-acceptable ‘stiction’. Hours can be spent lapping these with grinding paste to achieve an acceptable smoothness in operation. So either sift through a pile of these and pick the better finished looking ones, or buy genuine ones. I would recommend genuine ball-joint kits for any Mini destined for competition use. The extra expense is well worth it. For cars used in competition only, the ball-joints should be set with the minimum amount of resistance achievable without any play. Dual duty Minis should have them set so they are moveable with a short handled ring spanner and little pressure. Road cars need to be tighter to avoid very frequent servicing adjustments."
http://www.calverst....Terminology.htm
http://www.minispare...px?ty=ad&aid=57
Edited by mab01uk, 10 March 2011 - 11:16 PM.
#10
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:40 PM
1. Probably nothing
This summer, as every summer, there will be at least 10 threads from members who have suffered a ball joint failure while driving. If they know the history of their car, when asked they will almost all say the joints fitted were non genuine. It's been the same for the last 6 years that I've been a member, I think that's enough to judge by.
#11
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:45 PM
http://www.minispare...=...5318&title=
#12
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:48 PM
#13
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:51 PM
I'd of ended up ordering the non gen ones if I didn't see this thread
#14
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:55 PM
1. Probably nothing
This summer, as every summer, there will be at least 10 threads from members who have suffered a ball joint failure while driving. If they know the history of their car, when asked they will almost all say the joints fitted were non genuine. It's been the same for the last 6 years that I've been a member, I think that's enough to judge by.
I agree, never saw many failures in the past but seen lots on here in recent years. I have never had a failure on a road or race Mini but have always used the genuine parts........not worth cutting corners to save a few pounds, your life could depend on it.
#15
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:56 PM
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