15 replies to this topic

[rendersonique]

Hi folks,
Made a real boo boo putting my engine together earlier by putting the idler gear the wrong way round (large shaft facing towards the clutch) and as a result knackerd my casing when the shaft end decided to make an appearance during the torque down of the casing . Right, its not good I know and I would like to say its a school boy error, but to be honest its the first time I have built the engine without the helping hand of an experienced person so I will deffo say I will check next time and put it down to experience.

All may not be lost as I did get a spare transfer caring when I bought the car. It looks similar but the casing reference number is different. The one i knackerd is 22G1556, and the spare I have is 22G1921. One obvious differnce in the casting is that the part right next to the main clutch seal is flatter on the original, and rounded on the 22G1921. I am going to have to order a new seal and bearings for the replacment if its compatable, but I just wondered if anybody on here knew of any obvious differences?

Any help much appreciated as ever

[AndyMiniMad.]

There should be no difference. The older transfer housings had a smaller hole for the idler bearing I think it was 19mm, The newer ones are 22mm. Looks like your second housing is kaput aswell. Its broken next to the starter motor hole.

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 10 April 2011 - 04:34 PM.

[rendersonique]

There should be no difference. The older transfer housings had a smaller hole for the idler bearing I think it was 19mm, The newer ones are 22mm. Looks like your second housing is kaput aswell. Its broken next to the starter motor hole.

I have put the starter motor in the replacment casing after i saw the damaged casting. I think it will be OK as there is only a small gap. I only use my car during the summer months so I think the chance of anything getting into the clutch housing is very minimal.

Edited by rendersonique, 10 April 2011 - 04:58 PM.

[SomethingNew71]

I did this EXACT same thing not but a couple weeks ago. Guessworks is gonna sort me out. I know how frustrating it was when you were torquing that down and all of a sudden POP tink tink tink as the little metal piece pops out. I don't know that I would use a case with a hole in it though be nervous about something jumping in there cause the mini is so low. Just my 2 cents though....

[rendersonique]

I did this EXACT same thing not but a couple weeks ago. Guessworks is gonna sort me out. I know how frustrating it was when you were torquing that down and all of a sudden POP tink tink tink as the little metal piece pops out. I don't know that I would use a case with a hole in it though be nervous about something jumping in there cause the mini is so low. Just my 2 cents though....

Is sounds a bit bad when I say I am glad I am not the only person to have done this , but I am sure you know what I mean . As far as the hole is concerned I may just work something out for that.

[Guess-Works.com]

What you need to do is look at the condition of the thrust face on the opposite side of the case where the idler gear sits on the spare case... and it's the right diameter...

Also when putting back together, check the endfloat on the idler, this is best done by offering up the transfer case to the gearbox, with the gasket and idler in place, torque up 4 or 5 of the bolts/studs around the idler gear, then using a feeler gauge between the thrust and the idler gear measure the endfloat, should be somewhere between 4 and 7 thou, if it's too small (tight) then one or both of the idler thrusts need to be change for thinner ones, and vice versa, if too wide they need to be change for thicker ones.

[liirge]

I did this EXACT same thing not but a couple weeks ago. Guessworks is gonna sort me out. I know how frustrating it was when you were torquing that down and all of a sudden POP tink tink tink as the little metal piece pops out. I don't know that I would use a case with a hole in it though be nervous about something jumping in there cause the mini is so low. Just my 2 cents though....

Naa, that break in the casting will not be a problem,
Think about the amount of people who drill whopping great big holes into their casings to either lighten the casing or aid cooling of the clutch, and the amount of people missing the bung on the end of the starter gear extrusion.
In fact I have a casing in the exact same condition im going to be using on my engine build. If you are still worried about it, what i suggest you do is put a piece of foam to plug the hole slightly. This is foam idea is used in old massey Ferguson tractors to plug the hole for the timing marks.

[Ethel]

You could probably repair that, if the bearing & thrust faces are undamaged. It will just need sealing to be oil tight. Worth a go with some thread lock.

[rendersonique]

What you need to do is look at the condition of the thrust face on the opposite side of the case where the idler gear sits on the spare case... and it's the right diameter...

John,
Do you mean this:

[Guess-Works.com]

Yes, looks a bit worn but not bad enough to dump. all depends how it shims up.

[rendersonique]

Yes, looks a bit worn but not bad enough to dump. all depends how it shims up.

Your probably aware but my idler gear has two large spacers with a circular groove on both faces (presumably for oil movement). Are there shims to pack the idler out, and if so how would I check that all is OK. Sorry for the barrage of question Just one other question....how do I get the roller bearing out of the casing?

Edited by rendersonique, 12 April 2011 - 07:17 AM.

[liirge]

Yes, looks a bit worn but not bad enough to dump. all depends how it shims up.

Your probably aware but my idler gear has two large spacers with a circular groove on both faces (presumably for oil movement). Are there shims to pack the idler out, and if so how would I check that all is OK. Sorry for the barrage of question Just one other question....how do I get the roller bearing out of the casing?

Those spacers are the thrust washers, they are the shims, you need to measure the width of the washers with a micrometer and the idler gear endfloat with a DTI or feeler gauges and from that you can work out what sized washers you require to get correct tolerances stated in your Haynes or Workshop manual for the end float, the washers are quite expensive but this is an area that is really not worth scrimping on. The idler bearing is a tricky one, if you look on the current last or previous page of my project (Retro Rally in my Sig) you can see the method I used, if you dont have access to a welder then do a search on here and there are a couple of other methods people have tried and succeeded with, personally I've only ever managed to do well with the welding option.

[Guess-Works.com]

There are numerous ways of getting the bearing out, but the best way is with a blind bearing puller... unfortunately these are not cheap bits of kit...

eg... http://www.machinema...ring-puller-set

[rendersonique]

This may seem a silly question, but what happens if you don't get the tollerences right on the idler gear and end float. Does it just wear quickly, and if so what will happen to it eventually?

[MRA]

If too tight it can overheat (locally) and destroy the case, gear etc...
If too loose it can smash itself apart

Straight cut drops can be looser