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Engine Running Hot?


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#16 shep_cobain

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 07:01 PM

Any more ideas to try tomorrow?

#17 shep_cobain

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 10:08 PM

Bump?

#18 Cooperman

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Posted 22 April 2011 - 10:19 PM

Just had another look at your photos. The fan position really is not good for optimum cooling. It must sit with the blade tip width completely within the shroud with the blade tips an equal distance all round from the shroud. If it doesn't, centrifugal force will allow some of the cooling air to bleed off before it gets into the shroud and thus reduce the air available for actual cooling.
You could switch to using a 6-blade steel 'export' fan as they are the best for cooling.



Would it cause the temp to get so hifgh though?


It could as you could easily lose, say, 10% of the potential air through the radiator and in this hotter weather it would certainly run much hotter.
Othr than that I can only suspect that the new rad is somehow sub-standard. In early 850 and 997/998 Coopers the rad was smaller in capacity than that fitted to the original 1071/970 and 1275 Cooper 'S' and that used to cause problems as a new rad could be too small, but all standard rads have been as the Cooper 'S' one for years now. If you still have the old rad, then clean it out and try if, after, that is, positioning the fan correctly. I this weather maybe 85 to 9-0 degrees would be about right. I'll let you know what mine runs at after the H2H run on Sunday.

Edited by Cooperman, 22 April 2011 - 10:19 PM.


#19 shep_cobain

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 08:38 AM

Just had another look at your photos. The fan position really is not good for optimum cooling. It must sit with the blade tip width completely within the shroud with the blade tips an equal distance all round from the shroud. If it doesn't, centrifugal force will allow some of the cooling air to bleed off before it gets into the shroud and thus reduce the air available for actual cooling.
You could switch to using a 6-blade steel 'export' fan as they are the best for cooling.



Would it cause the temp to get so hifgh though?


It could as you could easily lose, say, 10% of the potential air through the radiator and in this hotter weather it would certainly run much hotter.
Othr than that I can only suspect that the new rad is somehow sub-standard. In early 850 and 997/998 Coopers the rad was smaller in capacity than that fitted to the original 1071/970 and 1275 Cooper 'S' and that used to cause problems as a new rad could be too small, but all standard rads have been as the Cooper 'S' one for years now. If you still have the old rad, then clean it out and try if, after, that is, positioning the fan correctly. I this weather maybe 85 to 9-0 degrees would be about right. I'll let you know what mine runs at after the H2H run on Sunday.


I'll take out the thermostat and make sure it isn't stuck. I'll try and reposition the fan so its closer to the rad and more even and see how it runs. It's alot cooler in Blackpool today :)

#20 cooperrodeo

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 08:54 AM

Bound to be cooler in Blackpool. It's difficult to see where they are going to get any points from in their remaining games.

#21 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 09:44 AM

Did you say it sqeeks a bit when you start it up?? Make sure the fan belt is on tight....If it is a new fan belt then maybe it got a bit of oil on it when you fitted it and is now slipping. Also when you have it off to check, make sure the water pump is turning freely. I would say its something simple. But anyway its always best to check the easy stuff first before getting to in depth.

#22 shep_cobain

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 11:29 AM

So taken the thermostat out and tested it. It opens so it narrows down that problem. The waterpump has stopped squeeking it may have had some WD40 on it or some other some sort of lube to make it slip.

All i can think is maybe the fan is a problem but surely it wouldn't get to 100c so quickly?

#23 shep_cobain

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:01 PM

So taken the thermostat out and tested it. It opens so it narrows down that problem. The waterpump has stopped squeeking it may have had some WD40 on it or some other some sort of lube to make it slip.

All i can think is maybe the fan is a problem but surely it wouldn't get to 100c so quickly?


Got the thermostat back in, tried getting the fan in the surround more so it was closer to the rad. but its hard. There are two pieces of metal holding the surround in place at the top and they don't look orginal! So its pushing the surround further out. Without them it would be better i imagine, but i need an original steady for the top of the surround, not some makeshift technix crap.

#24 shep_cobain

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 12:54 PM

So taken the thermostat out and tested it. It opens so it narrows down that problem. The waterpump has stopped squeeking it may have had some WD40 on it or some other some sort of lube to make it slip.

All i can think is maybe the fan is a problem but surely it wouldn't get to 100c so quickly?


Got the thermostat back in, tried getting the fan in the surround more so it was closer to the rad. but its hard. There are two pieces of metal holding the surround in place at the top and they don't look orginal! So its pushing the surround further out. Without them it would be better i imagine, but i need an original steady for the top of the surround, not some makeshift technix crap.


I have just been informed that high oil pressure can cause high temps. The cars oil pressure according to the gauge is over 100psi at all times, idling, driving etc etc.

Ive also noticed the voltage is 14+

Are these readings normal and how would i go about lowering the oil pressure.

#25 shep_cobain

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Posted 23 April 2011 - 02:47 PM

So taken the thermostat out and tested it. It opens so it narrows down that problem. The waterpump has stopped squeeking it may have had some WD40 on it or some other some sort of lube to make it slip.

All i can think is maybe the fan is a problem but surely it wouldn't get to 100c so quickly?


Got the thermostat back in, tried getting the fan in the surround more so it was closer to the rad. but its hard. There are two pieces of metal holding the surround in place at the top and they don't look orginal! So its pushing the surround further out. Without them it would be better i imagine, but i need an original steady for the top of the surround, not some makeshift technix crap.


I have just been informed that high oil pressure can cause high temps. The cars oil pressure according to the gauge is over 100psi at all times, idling, driving etc etc.

Ive also noticed the voltage is 14+

Are these readings normal and how would i go about lowering the oil pressure.


Should there be coolant in the top radiator hose?




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