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Clutch/Flywheel Help


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#1 Domino

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 04:22 PM

Thought i would finally be able to drive my kit car after a looooong time building it. Engine starts no problem, but if i try to select a gear the car will grind and won't go into gear. checked the hydraulics and bled the clutch and feels like there is plenty behind the pedal so thought it must be something to do with the plates and flywheel not detaching.

The flywheel does not want to come off at all. Tried the flywheel puller, tried leaving it on for days then adding penetrating oil and retightening. Theres a bit of rust there.

Would some heat applied to the flywheel, clutch plates help to loosen things up?
Any other suggestions would be very helpful.

Pictures are available if that would make things clearer.

D

#2 Boy Racer

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 04:33 PM

Flywheels are a nightmare to extract, i spent 20 minutes jumping on an 18inch breaker bar to get mine undone. just keep tightening the extractor and eventually it'll come undone.

#3 Jammy

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 04:51 PM

Did you have the crank the correct way up, the C clip might have fallen out?

#4 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 05:10 PM

Best thing is to get the slot in the end horizontal, thatway the c clip will never drop...

As for removing it, you're doing the right thing, Get the puller on it, wind it up, and if it does not go, leave it for a while tight, and then come back pull a bit more, leave it etc etc..

Minidaves, has also suggested a 'tap' on the puller main bolt with a BFH, but if the engines in the car this may not be possible...

It'll come off eventually.

#5 dklawson

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 05:30 PM

If the engine is out of the car...

To add to what Guessworks and Minidaves suggest, use the BFH on the center of the puller. BUT, put a large pile of rags or carpets on the floor in front of the puller/flywheel and make sure you are standing to the side when striking. You don't want anything hitting you when it jumps off the crank.

by the way, this may sound like a stupid or obvious suggestion but make sure the center bolt and keyed washer aren't still there and/or tight. Pulling against them with or without the BFH won't work!

#6 Boy Racer

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 05:43 PM

^^ yeah an important point there... i crushed mine with the puller rather stupidly. :thumbsup:

#7 minidaves

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 09:20 PM

or this is the latest from the minidaves camp. get puller on flywheel and do it up tight, makinging sure lock washer is off, then get some loctite freeze and relaease spray (halfords 4.99) designed for rustty bolts, shake it up and then spray the flywheel puller and flywheel the temp reduction helds break the taper, also works well on ball joints too

dave

#8 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 09:50 PM

OOhhh... that one goes of into the memory store for later use :thumbsup:

#9 miniboo

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 09:56 PM

its like doing the rapid heating and cooling thing isnt it?

#10 minidaves

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:00 PM

basically yes it freeze's things rather than heating them its designed for rusty nuts and bolts but works wonderful on tapers etc its basically temp change this stuff can freeze down to -43degrees c and is also good but expensive way to cool your can of coke on a hot day

#11 Sprocket

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:56 PM

whats in the can of this stuff, I would be concerned if it were R134a :thumbsup:

And whats wrong with good old fashioned gentle heat :w00t:

#12 minidaves

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Posted 11 January 2006 - 11:03 PM

its not coolant as in the stuff in your airocn, it is a chemical mix and it costs 4.99 nothing wrong with heat except my public and liability insurances dont permit me to use heat away from the workshop, nor on any componat that may change its properties with heat so things like suspention ball joints etc. heats great

dave




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