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#1
Posted 27 April 2004 - 05:28 PM
thanks Alex.
#2
Posted 27 April 2004 - 08:36 PM
I will do a good job for a fair price , do you want to come to North Wales ? :wales:
#3
Posted 28 April 2004 - 12:28 PM
With the arches, near where I live you can get the paint colour mated and they put it into a spray can so its easy to apply, what are you doing with yours?
If you havent already you may need some hi lo's as as with mine the knuckle's plastic cups were shagged and the car sat too low on the wider wheels and with 13's it might be more of a problem. Any slight bump = major rubbing and creaking!
Good luck and get to it!
#4
Posted 28 April 2004 - 12:29 PM
#5
Posted 28 April 2004 - 07:10 PM
Alex
#6
Posted 28 April 2004 - 09:22 PM
The 13-inch wheel/tyre combination brings out the worst in everything Mini suspension
and brakes orientated - but to many the aesthetics far out-weigh all other considerations.
And there are many considerations.
Those who believe they are fitting this combination for increased grip and handling capability on a road
car need to think again. Most of the 13-inch tyres are manufactured for heavier
cars. This means a harder tyre compound is used. A Mini simply doesn't get the
tyre up to its proper operating temperature, so the increase in grip originally
hoped for doesn't materialize or isn't maximised. Wayward handling (unless suitable
suspension set-up has been applied), heavy wayward steering, and exaggerated
bump-steer are further consequences. These are caused by the offsets employed,
necessary to get suspension clearance. 13-inchers are generally wider than standard
rims, so the wheels are made with the greater portion of the extra width applied
to the outside of the wheel, effectively pushing the wheel further out away
from the car. This causes a greater leverage to be applied to the already poor
bump-steer geometry of the Mini. The wider tyre needs different geometry settings
to ensure the full footprint is road-surface bound as the lower, stiffer side-wall
does not distort as easily as the 10-inch tyre types. Excessive camber - positive
or negative - will cause the tyre to loose contact with the road surface when
cornering or with extreme steering in-puts. This then causes the tyre to follow
any deviations in road surface.
The offset dimensions employed can also mean wheel spacer shims are required in certain combinations to gain
clearance, and even the steering rack may need replacing with the one used on
the Sportpack cars - and these are definitely not cheap, costing in excess of
£100. These have built in lock-stops to reduce the turning circle to prevent
the tyre scrubbing the inside of the rear of the inner front arch. Again, the
types and styles are legion, so doing a comprehensive and accurate whose needs
what is impossible in a few pages.
The increased footprint increases drag - responsible for reduced top speed, reduced acceleration, increased
fuel consumption (all neatly illustrated by the difference in performance figures
between the Sportpack cars and the 12-inch shod variants, the 13-inchers suffering
6mph slower top speed and 0.6 seconds slower 0-60 with less mpg).
This larger footprint-induced grip/drag increase will help with braking, but
only if the brakes are equal to the task. The wheel diameter also gives a greater
('longer') leverage working against the brakes. The combined larger footprint
and greater leverage means fitting 13-inchers to a drum-braked Mini is an absolute
no-no. They simply over-come the applied friction capability of the shoes. Disc
brakes are a must. Even the 7.5-inch S type discs are a little marginal in my
opinion/experience unless steps are taken to maximise their performance envelope.
The 13-inch combination is a good deal heavier in most instances than the standard set-up so up-rated
dampers are an absolute must.
Having considered, dismissed or navigated round the aforementioned problems and are still serious about fitting
13-inchers, one thing is certain - body surgery will be necessary.
#7
Posted 28 April 2004 - 10:19 PM
thankd
ALex.
#8
Posted 29 April 2004 - 03:04 PM
You want RAC Hi lo's and Kabaya Gas-A-Justs from what I have read as they are the best compromise for value for money and performance. Minispares do the whole lot as a package for £142 plus postage. Avo adjustables are also good, just bear in mond you need something that is at least 20% upgraded on standard to cope with your big rims arsing everything up :grin: I would also recommend you get some new suspension knuckle joints and uprated bushes, if not mountings as well.i would like advice on what surpenstion upgrades to make, as it is currently all standerd apart from solid subframe mounts, i want to get hi-lows and some uprated shocks but i dopn't know which to go for.
thankd
ALex.
I hope you have deep pockets because unless you can do it yourself or know of someone that can do it cheap, the labour is likely to cost the same as all the bits added together. Hope that helps.
12's, 13's whats an inch anyways, whats the difference ... well when I'm half a second to sixty faster, kicking your ass is the difference :tongue: Up 2 u though
#9
Posted 05 May 2004 - 10:09 PM
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