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Mpi Firing Order Off. Injection Wizards, Help Needed...


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#16 tony kenobi

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 05:16 PM

John, after reading your comment on the pressure plate affecting the timing, how is this?

#17 tpotterror

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 05:18 PM

as far as i remember u cant put the flywheel on the wrong way round, if u recon the timing is reverse ud have to change it the timing chain end which u can do in car but is awkward

#18 tony kenobi

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 05:38 PM

Im near sure it can be put on upside down. It would damage the washer.

Is there a way to check the flywheel by removing the starter motor? Before I start pulling the thing apart?!

#19 Sprocket

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:01 PM

The pressure plate will only fit the flywheel one way. The flywheel will only fit on the crank with the key washer in pisition, one way. The reluctor ring on the back of the flywheel will not have mysteriously moved.

Bottom line. If the flywheel is completely installed with the locating dowels and key washer in there correct position, it is not the problem, so don't start looking for one. If on the other hand, you are completely unsure if the clutch and flywheel have been assembled correctly, you will have to disassemble it and check.

Like I previously said, I have seen the key washer fitted with the groove in the flywheel and crank not lining up. The bolt was FT and the lock tab was knocked over. Basically, the person who installed it was the the real problem, and the engine cutting out with throttle was a symptom.

The other problem that is common is people do not realise that there is a difference between the Valeo and AP pressure plates the presents the reluctor ring in the back of the flywheel to the crank position sensor, at a different angle. Just looking at both types is difficult to see any difference, but it is there. The Injection clutch is a Valeo type. Fitting an AP WILL cause you problems without further modifications to the flywheel.

This is highly unlikely to be your problem if it is the original clutch set up and has not been messed with.

Install the HT leads as they are numbered on the coil pack with number one cylinder on the right and number 4 on the left. Cylinders 1/4 should fire together and cylinders 2/3 should fire together

For an over fueling and backfire problem I would be looking at a problem with the MAP sensor. Get it hooked up to a diagnostic and check that all the sensors are working correctly.

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#20 Sprocket

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:11 PM

as far as i remember u cant put the flywheel on the wrong way round, if u recon the timing is reverse ud have to change it the timing chain end which u can do in car but is awkward



How can the cam timing be 180 degrees out with the dots on the timing gear being in line? This of course all depends on who built the engine, what timing gear has been installed and how it was timed in in this case.

#21 Sprocket

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:18 PM

Im near sure it can be put on upside down. It would damage the washer.


It all depends what you mean by 'can' since the key washer is designed to ensure that when parts are fitted correctly, that it CANNOT be fitted 'upside down'

The problem is if the parts are installed incorrectly. Now if that is what you mean by being fitted upside down or 180 degrees out.............................. :)

Time to pull it apart ;)

#22 tony kenobi

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:24 PM

Taken from another forum, a member there has the same symptoms as mine and found the flywheel on upside down. quoted from there.....

There isn't a woodruff key for the flywheel (unlike the front pulley), however there is a slot in the end of the crank (as on all minis) which allows the keyed washer which goes under the flywheel bolt to prevent the flywheel from spinning on the shaft (in theory) However because the slot goes right across the shaft you can fit the flywheel on either way up.

To be fair to whoever did it, the manuals (even the Rover one) don't really describe this, you have to study the drawings carefully to see the subtle difference between top and bottom. And obviously on carb cars it doesn't matter which way up it goes.

This is whats happened with me. I had slotted the washer into the end of the crank ok, but the flywheel can be 1 of 2 ways.

I hope this makes it clearer.

#23 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 07:03 PM

Fitted correctly the flywheel will only go on one way, this is because the slot in the crank and flywheel is not central, it is offset, admittedly not by much but it's there... Difficulties can arise when changing a clutch in the car where you cannot see the slot end on, and it can appear that the crank is correctly located, but infact it's not... The locating washer goes in, but not fully, and does not engage on the flywheel, meaning when tightened the flywheel is actually still loose on the crank.

#24 charie t

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 10:33 PM

have you bolted ther coil in upside down?
Firing order should be
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#25 Sprocket

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 11:52 PM

Just take it apart and re assemble it correctly :)

#26 Sprocket

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 11:54 PM

have you bolted ther coil in upside down?
Firing order should be
Posted Image



What does it matter which way it is fitted if you fit the HT leads as the numbers on the coil suggest? You cannot go wrong. Evidently you can :)

#27 tony kenobi

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 10:04 AM

Quick update, engine out on Wednesday, I had an oil leak and obvious timing problems to sort, so it made sense. So gave everything the once over, and yes the flywheel was on incorrectly. My lock washer had been damaged and when refitted it had not located the flywheel in the correct position. So new washer and flywheel bolt bought and fitted. I had everything else I had built checked over while I was that far by a local mini specialist and confirmed it all looked fine.

The oil leak was coming from the plate behind the timing cover. Few new bolts and gaskets and fingers crossed should be fine. Also noticed my clutch cylinder had leaked so new one ordered. It has obviously lifted paint on the sub frame so that's for another day.

So 2 years on and I've found the problem. Lesson learned! I'll not get back to it until Tuesday next week, so fingers crossed I get to drive me engine as it should be since I haven't from it was rebuilt. Excited to say the least. Then mot time, my plan is to use it every day, it's a waste for it to be sitting about like a toy.

#28 Ethel

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 10:26 AM

It's a fair bet the oil leak is from the C seal between the gear case & engine.

#29 tony kenobi

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 11:29 AM

Hey Ethel, the oil seal was dry so it looks to be from the plate behind that again, where the oil pump sits. Tool it off and re sealed it, new bolts etc but a small oil leak was least of my worries as long as it runs properly.

Edited by tony kenobi, 10 June 2011 - 11:30 AM.


#30 Manuel B

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 01:47 PM

I'm excited for you !, it's going to feel great to have it running right again, I just went through the same thing, different problem but OVER a year without my Mini and over $3,400.US and 8 months wasted at a "specialist" shop, after they gave up I made videos and borrowed an ACR and with the help of some great people on this and other Mini forums the fault was found, (£29.99 crank angle sensor) At one point I was ready to give up and put it on ebay as a non-runner, but a good friend talked me down off the ledge. I hope you update your results here.




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