18 replies to this topic

[scubalegg]

Not long had my 1995 SPI 1.3 and was out driving last night with no problem, bit low on petrol so pulled over and filled up with a jerry can, then went to restart and wouldnt. I couldnt hear the fuel pump starting, checked the blade fuze and it was blown, replaced it and still nothing. Is this the fuel pump gone or is there other fuses or relays i need to check, if so where are they and is there a way to check the fuel pump?

Thanks

[minimat]

Check the inertia switch on the bulkhead passenger side.

[scubalegg]

Check the inertia switch on the bulkhead passenger side.

Thats the little black box by the windscreen wiper motor? If so i pushed it in a few times and still nothing

[minimat]

Try checking the inline fuses behind the airbox if yours has them and the plugs on the blackbox on the servo,the fuel pump relay is in here.

[mini 4o]

hi
Disconnect the wiring at the pump, a duff pump will blow the fuse, check wiring with volt meter
With the ignition on you should have power, after around 3-5 min it should loose power because the engine has not started.

john

[scubalegg]

Taken the air box off, down the back where the metal fuel lines are there is no fuses, only the fuses in the black pastic box to the side of the air box (thats where the blown fuse was), checked the connetors going into the sensor and also the yellow relay(?) with it and all connections seem ok. The purple, green with white strip and green with black strip all got power. The black with green strip number 87 on the yellow relay has no power. This is with the ignition on turning it over and not. Could it be the relay not sending power to the pump?

[scubalegg]

hi
Disconnect the wiring at the pump, a duff pump will blow the fuse, check wiring with volt meter
With the ignition on you should have power, after around 3-5 min it should loose power because the engine has not started.

john

Disconnected the white with brown strip wire and black from the very top of the tank... only wires i can see going to it, so im assuming these are the electrical connectors for the pump and there is only 0.006 volts between these wires even just seconds after turning the ignition on. Could this mean there isnt a problem with the pump but a power issue instead?

[Sprocket]

a 95 SPi will not have ANY inline fuses. They will all be in the 24 way fuse box and the fuel pump fuse is No11.

There are several areas you need to check first. The relay pack, the bulkhead 13 way connector, the inertia switch and its connector, the 13 way connector under the passenger side dash, the wiring that runs along the passenger side floor into the passenger side rear bin, over the wheel arch into the boot.

I have just pulled my wiring loom apart and found scortched wiring for the fuel pump on the 13 way connector under the passenger side dash, and I previously repaired scorched wiring on the 13 way connector on the bulkhead.

The fuel pump wire colours, from relay pack to bulkhead 13 way connector - Brown/ Slate. From bulkhead 13 way connector to fuse 11/ 24 way fuse box - Brown/ slate. From fuse 11/ 24 way fuse box to Inertia switch - Brown/ Slate. From inertia switch to under dash 13 way connector - White/ Purple. From under dash 13 way connector to fuel pump - White/ Purple.

Fuse should be 10 amp from memory. The wiring to the pump is not that fat, so don't go jamming a 20 amp fuse in there!

Break it down into parts and test the parts.

[minimat]

yours has the later fusebox than mine then so ignore what i said about inline fuses,ignore the yellow relays too the fuel pump relay is inside the black box on the servo,somesimes you can slide the cover off and look inside to see if the relay moves,sometimes they stick and need manually moving across.If you can open it up the relay you need to look at is on the bottom right looking at it with the plugs at the top.

[Sprocket]

hi
Disconnect the wiring at the pump, a duff pump will blow the fuse, check wiring with volt meter
With the ignition on you should have power, after around 3-5 min it should loose power because the engine has not started.

john

The Rover MEMS energises the fuel pump for a few seconds when the key is turned to ignition. It then waits for activity on the crank sensor showing the engine being turned over before it energises the pump again.

Testing the fuel pump in this manor will require a second pair of hands. One person using the multi meter to check for voltage at the pump connector (fuel pump disconnected) while the other turns the engine over.

[scubalegg]

I'll do a conductivity test on the black inertia switch to make sure that its not sticking, and will also follow the wire from start to finish to see if there is any burning of the wire, and get someone to turn the engine over so i can watch the meter. Once ive checked all that ill let you know what the problem was or if there still is a problem.

Thanks for your help so far!

[scubalegg]

Checked parts of the wiring and all seems ok, getting between 7.5 and 8.9 volts at the pump when turning over the engine... is this a pretty sure thing that the electrics are ok and the pump is gone?

[scubalegg]

Also i forget to add, ive noticed a clicking when the ignition is turned off coming from the injectors area, sounds like 5-8 really quick clicks in less then a second that ive not noticed before... could this be something todo with it, normal or something else that needs sorting out?
Thanks.

[scubalegg]

More information on the clicking.

The clicking is coming from the unit under where the accelorator cable is connected, the clicking can be started by turning off the engine or repeated movement of the accelorator. The clicking inturn moves a small shiny metal pin highlighted in the pic below.

With the ignition off the the pin sits half way out, turning off the ignition on moves it all the way out, turning off moves it back to half way after the clicks. If the accelorator is moved repeatidly the pin moves fully into the rubber housing.

Could this be the cause of the fuel pump not starting up when the ignition is turned and why the engine wont start, is this another problem or is this normal

Thanks

 IMAG0036.jpg   1.39MB   31 downloads

Attached Files

•  IMAG0036.jpg   1.2MB   18 downloads

Edited by scubalegg, 17 May 2011 - 06:34 PM.

[minimat]

The clicking noise is the stepper motor which is used to contol the idle and the noise is perfectly normal and not related to the non starting problem,you have power to the pump but have you checked the earth wire as well?If this is ok it does sound like the pump has packed up unfortunalty although the voltatge does sound a tad low but i could be wrong,i would expect to see 12v.Maybe sprocket can confirm this.