11 replies to this topic

[binge]

Right, Got my car back 2 days ago from the garage.

The paint jobs a bit shabby, and everything was bodged. BUT the engine is in, and thats the main thing.

My mayfair is now running a 1275 a series Engine.
Theres a few things that are strange though

The heater gets hot, then after being on for some time, it goes cold.
Now, I changed the actual heater over when I had the old engine, for a heater what I KNEW worked because it came from a mini I drove and it was HOT was the heater.
It was strange on my old enigne, and its still not working right on the new engine.

Any ideas? :erm:



Also, its running the 998cc Manifold, carb and Exhaust at the moment. Am I going to see much of a performance Increase when I get a proper Stage1 kit designed for the 1275, One with a twin branch manifold rather than the single branch thingey ive got at the moment?


And finally, The clutch, The pedal is dead until about 2" from the floor, then it works as a clutch.
Ive tried bleeding the clutch, and nothing, Its in the pedal I think. Can I adjust the pedal?



Ta muchly!


<|Ben|>

[Sprocket]

is this an engine where the heater take off is on a sandwich plate underneath the thermostat housing???

[funkygibbon]

The heater problem could be air in the system. My mini did this but only at idle. the heater would go could but as soon as you started driving it would heat up again!

Stage 1 should make a good difference on your engine. i would imagine the 998 carb/needle and exhaust is holding back the power a bit.

Is the new engine from a Metro or a Mini? the metro has a different clutch housing set up and when putting a metro engine in a mini you have to change the housing and slave cylinder for the mini one?
Could be causing the problem??

[miniboo]

got any pics oif the work and the bits you think are a bit shabby?

[blacktulip]

the heater problem could well be the air lock, when you refill the system your meant to open the heater valve otherwise it will cause the air lock.

[chairchild]

the heater's deffo got an airlock - to solve it, open the heater valve, take off the radiator cap, and run the engine for about 20 minutes - filling it up when needed. After about 20 mins, put the cap back on, and enjoy a nice hot heater!

Fitting a stg1 kit will add upto 23% more power, and you'll get better economy to boot! But only bother buying the ones that include a needle for the carb, otherwise it'll run like a bag of turd


As for the clutch, it may be the slave cylinder that's dead - they always like to do that! If bleeding it does nothing at all, and "pumping" the pedal also does nothing (which would indicate a dead master cylinder) then it's the slave. I keep every single one I can get my hands on, because it's such a common fault!

[binge]

Well, ive got a dripy gearbox too. So I think im going to go to Mr Clutch, see if they can do my clutch and sort out the gearbox leak.


Right below the clutch on the bottom of the gearbox theres a hole in the bottom, it has a Splitpin hanging out of it. The Ball end is inside the engne and the two legs are sticking out.

I cant pull it out and I cant push it in. Its just hanging there.
No idea what it is. But I think the oil is cumin from here.



As for the clutch, The pedal is actually dead until about half way. it dosent even move the arm which pushed/pulls the cylinder for the clutch. Its well weird


it also HATES mid range revs, goes all Lumpy. Defo needs a correct exhaust and a good tune up.


<|Ben|>

[minimanclive]

That split pin is supposed to be in the flywheel housing. don't push it in or it'll get caught up in the flywheel. If you've got oil coming out of there it's a sure sign the flywheel housing oil seal has gone.

As for the clutch it could be the hole in the master cylinder pushrod worn oval. This has happened on mine and i've got an inch of pedal travel before it starts to operate the master cylinder.

[Leonard]

oil in the clutch housing could well lead to a slipping clutch. the lumpiness is due to the wrong needle/setup, and the 998 exhaust will limit the power alot. drippy gearbox is standard on minis.

[binge]

It actually does kinda of have a slippy clutch. Dosent wheelspin all that great. :erm:


So, How much would Mr clutch charge to do my flywheel Seal?

assuming they can do that sort of thing.

<|Ben|>

[Guess-Works.com]

To be honest I would be surprised if Mr Clutch would actually have the know how or tools to do that... but there's always a chance...

PS look to pay about 200 notes.

There's absolutely no point getting a stage one for a 1275, until you have an HIF44 carb, as the needles are for a .1" Jet (B spec) where as the 998 carb you have is an HS4 with a .09" Jet ( A spec ), and that is about the only difference between a stage one for a 998 and a stage 1 for a 1275. It's only since they started including the needle that there's been two, which again is a bit of a con, as the needle is dependant on more than the exhaust and inlet.

Before you do anything, get an HIF44, and check the needle number, probably be a BDL which is a good needle to start the tuning process from.. Fit the Stage 1 then, and get it tuned properly at which point you should get an appropriate needle for your engines specification.

There will also be a very good FAQ on tuning comming from the Doc's shortly so watch this space..

[minimanclive]

I'm not sure i'd trust any fast fit type place with my Mini. I've heard about too many bent floor pans as a result of them jacking Minis up on the floor pan.

There's a special tool to remove the seal without having to remove the housing itself, and another special tool to fit a new seal.

What you need is a small garage, the type that's been around for years that's likely to have the leyland special tools.