52 replies to this topic

[Racer_Pete]

thanks

[Ethel]

I think Dave meant perpendicular, not parallel. I've read somewhere that about a metre is considered the optimum distance from the exhaust valves. I've just managed to squeeze one infront of the selector box (my car is GRP, not standard Mini). I reckon this would be better as the pipe is still offset to go around the selector. I'll be cutting a hole so the sensor can be unscrewed through the floor, the cable would be a very tight fit anyway without it.

My thought with sensing just one side of an LCB is you could monitor the most critical pair of cylinders, I'm not sure which that would be, the inners? I guess the downside is something could happen to the other pair and you wouldn't know.


I wonder if you could build a simple comparitor circuit so you could use a lean lambda value to interrupt a temperature sensor signal to the MJ? You might manage to use the MJ auxilliary input for engine warm up as well then, by setting one of the bins to zero or five faults and making that the output from your comparitor.


The sensor bosses are plentiful on Ebay, either as weld ons or in a short length of pipe you could
U clamp in.

[minotaur]

heres a vid

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Justto follow what morley has said Just bought one of these gauge kits rage performance in the states. Got it within 2 days Fedex. Works well. Fits the existing lambda sensor hole if you already have one that is.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 30 May 2011 - 08:36 PM.

[minotaur]

mine arrived after 2 days fedex , incredible!

[Mini Manannán]

bought an AEM for my mini years ago and haven't been for a rolling road tune up since, saved myself a fortune in the long run by profiling the needle myself and monitoring with the wideband.

 

Blasting in from the past but the info is still valid...

 

I've just installed an AEM wideband AFR gauge, we don't have a rolling road here so I figure this is about the next best thing.

 I'm wondering if people are using these with a logger for TPS, MAP, RPM or even SPLOD etc?  If so, which logger, bearing in mind the AEM outputs 0-5v?  I don't want to spend a fortune on a logger but something that could compare the AFR and at least one other.  Oh, and a long shot...  If I could make it output directly to a Mac lappy would be best of all...

[Mini Manannán]

Anyone?

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

I just made a mental note each time

[Mini Manannán]

I just made a mental note each time

 

That's what I'm doing at the mo' and I'm getting dialled in slowly.  It'd be nice to be able to log a comparison though.

[Ethel]

S'pose the cheapest would be to just vid your gauge with a timestamp.

 

http://www.14point7.com/products/idash

[Mini Manannán]

S'pose the cheapest would be to just vid your gauge with a timestamp.

 

http://www.14point7.com/products/idash

 

er... Well the price is OK and it'll run on a Mac    

[Mini Manannán]

I'm getting close on my mixture now after days of averaging out the numbers on the gauge, I'm getting close now, I've established that I need a needle that doesn't exist  

[Rubbershorts]

Hi everyone. I'm highjacking this thread as it seems the most appropriate of the AFR ones. I've purchased the attached sensor kit and have questions regarding the power source. A switched live is required but must not share the following circuits; ignition system, stereo, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump. What does that leave, and how has anybody else wired it in? Secondly,it goes on to say if in doubt use a relay. The wiring diagram is attached with the code for the relay at the bottom. When searching for this online I can only find a 5 spade relay when the diagram clearly has only four spades. Does anyone know if this matters please?

Attached Files

•  instasize_250802205239.jpg   42.5K   5 downloads
•  instasize_250802204657.jpg   28.5K   4 downloads

Edited by Rubbershorts, 02 August 2025 - 09:23 PM.

[Ethel]

5 terminal relays are the same as 4 position relays with a crossover terminal. powering 86 connects 30 to 87 as it disconnects 30 from 87a

[timmy850]

I don't think the power source matters as much for old cars. It says in the diagram to use the power from the ignition switch (but not the ignition system i.e. individual coils on modern cars).

 

I've powered mine from a relay that's switched by the ignition switch. I've also powered it in the 12V accessory port (cigarette lighter) 

 

If you pick on of the fused terminals from the fuse board that gets 12V when the key is on then that will be fine