29 replies to this topic

[ACDodd]

Use a wiring diagram from the later MK2 1275, it uses a 1.5 ohm coil with no ballast together with the 65d leccy dizzy

Ac

[mini-mad-mark]

Cheers

[mini-mad-mark]

I said cheers but now I'm confused having re-read what I had already read (I think) that a 1.5 Ohm was for ballast and 3 Ohm for unballasted or have I misread/misunderstood that?

 

Does the 1.5 Ohm coil work unballasted? 

 

I also don't have access to a mk2 Metro wiring diagram only the one I posted or this one: (also blagged from the same online version of Haynes)

 

 Capture.JPG   43.75K   0 downloads

 

(it looks broadly similar just slightly different layout - also I don't really know what a Mk2 metro is - I had a A reg 1983 Turbo for a while !)

 

 

Sorry still unsure what the actual answer to my question is or maybe my original question was incorrect so rephrasing:

 

Can I run the Metro (65D) dizzy with an unballasted coil setup - using a 3 Ohm coil (shouldn't I or should it be a 1.5 Ohm based on your suggestion - but I thought 1.5 Ohm was ballast only)

 

 

[cal844]

Ballast resistor ignition can be deleted, I've done it 3 times now.

You ideally want to remove the ballast resistor wire from the loom, so you'll need to cut the tape from around the loom. (I'd actually advise labelling and disconnecting all for the coil, lights etc from the main loom and pull it through the bulkhead triangulation so you can work on it easily)

Then you just cut gently through the tape from the coil wires back towards the fusebox (the ballast wire connects 6 inches from the fusebox) now remove the ballast wire (Pink/white and marked resistive) now you have 2 choices, you either cut out the ballast connection and remake it with solder, or my choice is to simply cut it neatly and tape over the bare wires. Run a new 12v wire by using a piggy back spade so you can still connect the white and your new wire to the fuse box.

Run the cable inside the loom or as I did on my 2nd conversion was to tape the loom without the 12v wire inside, then cable tie the new wire round the loom. It was too untidy though, so redone the work.

Yes a long reply and I apologise but that should cover all the bases.

Hope this helps

Cal

Edited by cal844, 27 May 2020 - 09:38 PM.

[mini-mad-mark]

The loom doesn't have the ballast set up that was why I was asking - I know I will need the starter relay and a 12v feed for the electronic dizzy adding but I didn't want to add ballast wiring if I didn't need to 

 

Cheers

[mini-mad-mark]

Sorry I just need to clarify that I have understood correctly before breaking something and not knowing what I have done (if it does break) as I am now getting ready to wire the car

 

I don't have a ballast set up in the loom I have and don't want to add one if not necessary which Cal suggests it isn't 

 

So just to confirm if I use a full fat 3ohm  coil with 12V supply to the +ve ( i.e. unballasted) and then send the B/W -ve wire to the Metro electronic distributor (black wire) it wont knacker the dizzy/module by not being sent a ballasted -ve correct? 

 

(and I know I need a 12v +ve feed to the other (red) wire on the dizzy regardless) 

[GraemeC]

That’s fine, the ballast resistor would only be in the +ve supply wire

[mini-mad-mark]

Cheers - can go ahead and think fully about the wiring I need as the current loom is a std unballasted 1978 clubman estate so I need to add the 12v to the dizzy and the wire for the starter relay and modify from the std solenoid inertia starter to the pre-engaged starter/solenoid set up

[Ethel]

I know AC will disagree with me about the Ohms of the factory electronic ignition coil (GCL143), but we should agree on how to wire it up. If your loom is for ballasted ignition you're best of removing the pink/white ballast wire from the coil and the yellow/white from the coil & solenoid. Add a new wire from an ignition live (white wire) that you can tap off at the fuse box  (same terminal, not the opposite end of the fuse where the green wires are). Run the wire to the +ve on the coil & also attach the white wire from the dizzy module. the other dizzy terminal connects to the coil's -ve.

 

Wiring up a pre engaged starter won't affect the ignition.  Operating a pre-engaged solenoid will draw too much current for the ignition switch, but you can use the inertia solenoid as a relay. Just move the starter cable on to the same screw post as the battery cable and use the empty starter post on the original solenoid to power the operating spade terminal of the solenoid of pre engaged starter.

[mini-mad-mark]

Cheers again - no ballast set up in the current loom and I don't want to add one unless necessary

[mini-mad-mark]

Sorry totally confused now. Just to repeat, I don't have a ballast set up in the currrent loom and would prefer not to add one as: 

a) not sure how to get 9v (is ti just a resistance wire?)

b) it is more complex as I will also need to add the 12v cranking feed to the coil for start up unless as you are saying the electronic coil can take 12v all the time? 

 

Summarising what I believe (although as stated I am now getting a bit confused)

-Std coil is 3 ohm with and uses 12v all the time

 

-Ballast coil is 1.5/1.6 ohm coil  and needs 12v during starting and then 9v running - 12v continuous will damage the coil I believe

 

-Electronic dizzy uses "electronic" 0.9 ohm coil I believe (according to MiniSpares website) but does it need ballasted supply or not - you are saying not but I have read that it does

Can it run 12v continuously with out damaging the coil?  And then if the 12v to the coil is OK will that damage the dizzy/module?

 

And therefore if 12v continuous is OK why not use a std coil as I know that doesn't need ballasted (which electronic 0.9 ohm may or may not - sorry i know you are saying not) UNLESS using a std coil does not work with/will bugger up the electronic dizzy/module in which case I only need to know for sure if I can use constant 12v with the electronic 0.9 ohm coil

 

I would prefer to use a standard 12v 3 ohm coil with so I don't need to add a ballast set up for reasons above, IF it will work OK and not bugger up the electronic dizzy/module (which Graeme C thinks is OK)

 

Also for info the dizzy I have only has a red wire (+12v in I believe) and a black wire (fed from -ve coil terminal pulse wire I believe) - no white wire

 

 

Sorry if I'm confusing people I just want to be clear before I connect it all up and then it goes pop and I don't know why it wont start/run

[mini-mad-mark]

Hi All,

I sent a note to Keith Calver who was kind enough to answer.

 

Everyone was right about the 12v and not needing ballast resistance for the electronic coil but to clarify my point Keith states that using a 12v 3 ohm coil is NOT the way to go as the electronic ignition 0.9 ohm coil is needed to work with the 65D electronic dizzy/module  - it was my confusion about the various ohms of the coils and whether I did need a ballast set up so as to not damage the coil and then whether a 3 ohm coil could be used with the electronic dizzy/module - it can't)

 

Here is Keith's response in full in case it helps anyone else (Thanks Keith!):

 

The 65D4 type full electronic ignition is an excellent performer. When they were readily available it's what I used and fitted to all my race engines - personal and customers alike.

The system is based on the conventional type of ignition switched 12v supply. So literally a switched 12v to the coil, and the cables to the dizzy power module connect to the coil. That's it. It is essential that the low resistance coil is used. These are specific to the electronic ignition set-up.

The 3 ohm coil is only for points-fired 12 volt ignition.

Ballast ignition was used to boost cold-start performance, whilst increasing contact breaker life. At start-up the ballast system is by-passed, feeding the full 12 volts to the ignition system at start up, With the ignition key released to work in the 'run' position, the ballast resisted side of the ignition comes in to operation. the lower voltage reduces arcing at the points faces so increases their longevity of performance.

[nicklouse]

Basically the same info the the electrical FAQs http://www.theminifo...tributor-types/

[ACDodd]

Blimey I thought I answered this ages ago!!

Ac

[GraemeC]

Blimey I thought I answered this ages ago!!

Ac

 

You did, right at the top of page 2.