Don't think so, I have not spotted it doing, but I havn't really looked! The back corner always has a bit of oil on it. Runs fine though.

Tiny Tiny Bubbles From Gasket
Started by
thebullet
, Jul 06 2011 03:28 PM
20 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 16 February 2012 - 06:18 PM
#17
Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:21 PM
I had the same thing and wouldn't believe it was the headgasket as it was a bk450, but when it started blowing oil out onto the fan belt i bit the bullet and renewed the gasket and it cured the leaks
#18
Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:29 PM
Mine isnt at that stage yet and hopefull won't for a while *touchwood*
#19
Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:30 PM
just a short gap
drill say 4 small holes in the thermostat so it dont warm up so much
until you can fix it properly
drill say 4 small holes in the thermostat so it dont warm up so much
until you can fix it properly
#20
Posted 18 February 2012 - 09:54 PM
I changed my stat to an 88 one as it wasn't warming up. Drilling holes is a bit of a bodge, not into bodges ;)
#21
Posted 19 February 2012 - 07:45 AM
The problem may be with the way the head was torqued. The actual requirement is to get a certain tension in the bolts and studs, however the only practicable way to do that is by measuring torque, and unfortunately it is almost completely hit and miss, as the variable friction between threads makes a far bigger difference than you might expect. I suspect that we have all been victims of the same problem at one time or another, as most of us who have been running any older cars for a while will have experienced some kind of gasket problem. It probably explains at least three failures I have experienced over the years, new gaskets, apparently correctly torqued, which failed quite quickly, yet the next gasket lasted for ever in each case. This was a Ford 100E, Triumph Herald and Mini. If only I knew then what I know now......
Anyway, to get the correct tension in the bolts, or as close as is feasible, I would suggest undoing one nut at a time, not forgetting the two bolts if it is a 1275, lightly oiling the thread, checking that the nut runs freely, and retorquing, but NEVER significantly over the recommended torque. Obviously that needs to be done in the correct sequence, as usual. After a short break for a cup of tea, back them all off slightly, one at a time, and retorque again, in the correct sequence. Then again, after several hours, and again after it has been run for 100 miles or so. You may find that doing the last one hot is best.
It is a bit of a pain, because the valve clearances have to be adjusted at least twice, but not after the first two torquings as you are not going to run the engine then, just letting things settle. But it costs very little to do, as long as you are careful with the rocker cover gasket.
Anyway, to get the correct tension in the bolts, or as close as is feasible, I would suggest undoing one nut at a time, not forgetting the two bolts if it is a 1275, lightly oiling the thread, checking that the nut runs freely, and retorquing, but NEVER significantly over the recommended torque. Obviously that needs to be done in the correct sequence, as usual. After a short break for a cup of tea, back them all off slightly, one at a time, and retorque again, in the correct sequence. Then again, after several hours, and again after it has been run for 100 miles or so. You may find that doing the last one hot is best.
It is a bit of a pain, because the valve clearances have to be adjusted at least twice, but not after the first two torquings as you are not going to run the engine then, just letting things settle. But it costs very little to do, as long as you are careful with the rocker cover gasket.
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