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coil resistance


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#1 cowboy

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Posted 21 January 2006 - 07:27 PM

ok john or dan who can help

i have a non ballast ignition system and i checked the resistance of the coil. the results where 1.5 ohms, now im sure that it should be 3, i cant check with Sunshines because she has a ballast ignition system and her coil is 1.5 ohms as it should be..

i also have a condensor fitted to the coil, anyone know where i can get one from..


and the last problem is at the moment when the car is running, when i am running down the motorway or a dual carriageway, when i hit a certain speed the car feels like it is running our of petrol, and as soon as i take my foot of the gas for a while i can resume at a slower speed.

anyone got any ideas why..

ok car spec

998
twin hs2's fitted with K&N air filters
rc40 exhaust system

i am in the process of changing the head, now i've had it reskimmed, and i will be resetting the twin carbs in work, before i put them back on the car.

hope to have all this done by next weekend so i can go to bingley hall, if not the kids will be crampped, unlucky them

#2 Sprocket

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Posted 21 January 2006 - 09:07 PM

You need the carbs set up right or the rollers it might be running lean at mid to full throttle. Check there is enogh oil in the carb dashpots, both carbs are balanced correctly and the ignition advance is set right to start with. The 1.5 ohms coil is a balasted coil. the 3 ohms coil is a non balasted coil. Remove the coil from the car and leave it in a warm room for a good while till it reaches a similar temp and then measure the resistance. Resistance drops with temperature and when figures are quoted they are usualy at 20 Degrees Centigrade for good comparison.

#3 dklawson

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Posted 22 January 2006 - 03:39 AM

To add to Sprocket's post....

How do you know you have a non-ballast (standard) ignition? Your 1.5 ohm measurement of your coil indicates that it is for ballasted ignitions. It's unlikely to increase in value to 3 ohms when you let it stabilize to 20 degrees C.

Though you may have a fuel problem, it may also be that you are indeed running a ballast coil at a full 12V which will cause it to overheat. This may be part of your car's behavior after long high-speed drives. The fixes would be to install the proper coil if you are running without a ballast resistor... or convert to a ballasted ignition.

The condenser on the side of the coil is probably for noise filtering. Are you sure it's in fact a condenser and not a ballast resistor? Is it a rectangular brick or is it a canister shape?




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