PLEASE HELP I have a 1995 3 liter automatic mini I ran the petrol downvery low weeks ago since then ive had to jump start it by pouring a little bit petrol in the cart and start it up but wont start normaly could plese tell my why with a full tank of petrol and new batery it it wont start Ive been to 2 garages with it including a speclist and they dont seem to know or simply cant be botherd.
PLEASE HELP wont start
Started by
Racing Green
, Jan 28 2006 03:33 PM
17 replies to this topic
#2
Dan
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 03:42 PM
Where are you having to pour a bit of petrol? Sorry it's not very clear what you mean. And what's a 1995 3 liter Mini?
#3
Sprocket
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 05:25 PM
Is it carb or SPI (single point injection) also as dan says 
#4
Racing Green
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Learner Driver
Posted 28 January 2006 - 05:49 PM
The carbereter is what I mean
#5
MAGA7INE
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 06:32 PM
Does it turn over and not start or won't budge? Auto's have starter inhibitors that sometimes play up if left for any length of time. They prevent the car from being started in gear. Check this out first, make sure the gear selector isn't just slightly in drive and preventing the car from starting and give some more details so I can help further:)
#6
Racing Green
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 06:42 PM
No it wont turn over you got to keep putting petrol in the carbereter for it to start it all startsed when I let the petrol run dry since then it hasnt started properley
#7
Sprocket
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 07:49 PM
how does it start if it does not turn over
#8
MAGA7INE
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 08:03 PM
OK, that helps. If it won't turn over, it's almost certainly the starter inhibitor. Also look at these.
First, try looking for a fuel filter, I found 2 on our 67, one hidden on the rear subframe. If they were nearly blocked then they dry out, the solvent action of the petrol may well dislodge the rest of the junk in them blocking it and preventing petrol from reaching the carb. Humor me and change any filter anyway. If it doesn't have one, fit a clear one so you can visually confirm the presense of petrol.
If that does not work, take off the pipe from the pump to the carb, hold it over a suitable container and turn the engine over making sure that the coil is disconnected, you don't want any stray sparks. This should tell you if you are getting petrol to the carb.
If not, or if it's a dribble, then either the lines are blocked or the pump is dead, the rubber lines have collapsed, the metal lines are kinked or corroded.The pump should be a mechanical one mounted on the back of the block. It may have been replaced by an electric one. If so, check the pump is getting 12V with the ignition switched on.
Check the float and needle valve is operating properly, (you will probably find a haynes manual useful here).
Check the jet moves in the carb, that the choke cable is opening the choke correctly.
If this all checks out OK, then the problem is electrical. A lot of faults that appear to be fuel are usually electical.
Check the inhibitor is not the fault, make sure the coil is getting a full 12V with the ignition on.
When the fuel lines are safely back on and any petrol vapour or spillages are gone, take the lead from the coil out of the distributor and check to see if you have a good strong spark by cranking the engine over and holding the lead in insulated pliars or similar against the block.
Then repeat with one of the leads. Take the cap off, look for closed up points, burned point faces, worn cap, rotor arm etc.
The only way to crack this is to get the old haynes manual out and work through this methodically. This sort of thing is unfortunately a lost art to most garages used to modern cars and most don't want to know then tell you they can't find the problem.
First, try looking for a fuel filter, I found 2 on our 67, one hidden on the rear subframe. If they were nearly blocked then they dry out, the solvent action of the petrol may well dislodge the rest of the junk in them blocking it and preventing petrol from reaching the carb. Humor me and change any filter anyway. If it doesn't have one, fit a clear one so you can visually confirm the presense of petrol.
If that does not work, take off the pipe from the pump to the carb, hold it over a suitable container and turn the engine over making sure that the coil is disconnected, you don't want any stray sparks. This should tell you if you are getting petrol to the carb.
If not, or if it's a dribble, then either the lines are blocked or the pump is dead, the rubber lines have collapsed, the metal lines are kinked or corroded.The pump should be a mechanical one mounted on the back of the block. It may have been replaced by an electric one. If so, check the pump is getting 12V with the ignition switched on.
Check the float and needle valve is operating properly, (you will probably find a haynes manual useful here).
Check the jet moves in the carb, that the choke cable is opening the choke correctly.
If this all checks out OK, then the problem is electrical. A lot of faults that appear to be fuel are usually electical.
Check the inhibitor is not the fault, make sure the coil is getting a full 12V with the ignition on.
When the fuel lines are safely back on and any petrol vapour or spillages are gone, take the lead from the coil out of the distributor and check to see if you have a good strong spark by cranking the engine over and holding the lead in insulated pliars or similar against the block.
Then repeat with one of the leads. Take the cap off, look for closed up points, burned point faces, worn cap, rotor arm etc.
The only way to crack this is to get the old haynes manual out and work through this methodically. This sort of thing is unfortunately a lost art to most garages used to modern cars and most don't want to know then tell you they can't find the problem.
#9
Racing Green
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:10 PM
MAGA7INE
I will try all what you said its true what you said about garages
Thank You VERY VERY Much
Racing Green
I will try all what you said its true what you said about garages
Thank You VERY VERY Much
Racing Green
#10
Sprocket
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:18 PM
Are we sure this is a carb and not injection?? :fear:
#11
Dan
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 09:55 PM
Yeah, a 1995 carb Mini would be a very strange thing indeed!
#12
Jammy
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Posted 28 January 2006 - 10:39 PM
A 1995 mini with original carb engine would be a strange thing!
#14
MAGA7INE
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Posted 29 January 2006 - 05:48 PM
OK, well that means most of what I posted is not really very useful...sorry, you did say a carb....
Try the basics excluding the carb stuff first. Also, has the car been banged at all getting on or off a trailer? I beleive your car has something called and inertia switch, (I have one on my carb turbo car), which shuts off the electric to the fuel pump if you have an accident or it's knocked. Look where this is situated and reset it by pressing the button. 99 times out of 100 it is this that stops injection cars from getting fuel.
Def check the starter inhibitor as well. If this isn't it, post again
Try the basics excluding the carb stuff first. Also, has the car been banged at all getting on or off a trailer? I beleive your car has something called and inertia switch, (I have one on my carb turbo car), which shuts off the electric to the fuel pump if you have an accident or it's knocked. Look where this is situated and reset it by pressing the button. 99 times out of 100 it is this that stops injection cars from getting fuel.
Def check the starter inhibitor as well. If this isn't it, post again
#15
Sprocket
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Posted 29 January 2006 - 06:44 PM
Inertia switch is on the bulhead at the back of the engine bay to the right, next to two yellow relays. It's black, has a round rubber top. Push the top to reset. There is also a fuel filter on the rear subframe under the car, same side as the tank, if this is blocked then fuel will not get to the injector.
The inertia switch will stop the fuel pump only and nothing else, the inhibit switch on the auto transmission will stop the starter from working and nothing else.
The inertia switch will stop the fuel pump only and nothing else, the inhibit switch on the auto transmission will stop the starter from working and nothing else.
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