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1330 With 100Bhp


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#1 hughzy69

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 09:40 AM

Hi guys have read a few post with people claiming they have got close to 100bhp if not more from there 1330

I to am building my own 1330 and was wounding what sort of things would I need/consider to also get as close to 100bhp as possible with out the turbo etc.

Regards Tom.

#2 City

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 10:12 AM

hello tom im running a 1330 witch i put on the rolling road 88bhp at the wheels with wheel spin in the rollers so you could say 90 ish .dont know what that would be at flywheel got to be over 100 bhp.ive had mine 8 years and it has not missed a beat nice and relible what cam u going to b using

#3 hughzy69

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 10:15 AM

Thanks for reply, I'm going for a 276, stage 3 head, 2:76 diff and s/c drop gears with a dry deck kit too. And also running twin 38mm yamaha bike carbs

Edited by hughzy69, 27 August 2011 - 10:16 AM.


#4 minicb

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 11:08 AM

You will need to go for a heavily modified head and twin su carbs or a 45 weber ect ect

my 1293 with 276 cam, rally head 1,5 LD rocker and dellorto 45 carb ect i'm getting 90 at the fly wheel

Edited by minicb, 27 August 2011 - 11:10 AM.


#5 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 11:27 AM

A 2.76 diff? Really?? Thats going to kill your performance!! unless your car weighs less than a biscuit tin.

Im runing a 1380 that cost me over £3k to build and its runing a reliable 98bhp at the flywheel. So thats around 80 at the wheels...You will get around a 20 per cent loss through the drive train even with straight cut drop gears....yes 20 per cent...

Yes it is possible to build a 1330 with 100 bhp at the flywheel but its going to need a wildish cam and lots of your £££££....Remember to make sure the bottom end is strenghtened to cope with the extra power. Balanced and lightened everything is the way to go.

#6 MJWarren

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 02:15 PM

Itd probably have to be something like......

Big valve head probably a stage 4
286/296 cam
1.5 rockers
twin SU's or a weber

Like Andy says bottom end is quite key id have a Centre main strap, and the crank and rods balanced, no need for Straight cut gears in my opinion.

Why not go 1380?

#7 jaydee

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 02:21 PM

With a 1330 you can fit liners or rebore it.
A knackerd 1380 block will be scrap.

#8 1275GTS

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 02:32 PM

My 1330 gave 85 at the wheels on the dyno at Southam mini centre. They rebuilt the engine. Heres my spec.
Piper 285 cam, 1.5 rockers, fully lightened and balanced, big valve head, twin 1.75 carbs (HS6's), stage 2 maniflow exhaust manifold, 17/8" maniflow twin box exhaust, close ratio GT gearbox with centre pick up and uprated diff pin and grey clutch. Its great fun to drive and can be driven at 20mph in 4th with no problems.

#9 Cooperman

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 03:25 PM

You will need at least a 286 cam, a big-valve and well gas-flowed head, comp ratio of around 11:1, twin 1.5" SU's or a 45DCOE Weber carb, a really good exhaust such as a Maniflow 1.75", a custom-curved or programmable distributor, fully balanced in order to pull the 6500 rpm you'll need, good inlet manifold, etc.
Forget the very high diff, you'll need a 3.2 or 3.4 in order to keep it all 'on-the-cam' which will mean a lot of revs in top when cruising, but the engine will be built to really rev.
The SC gears won't make much difference except that you'll need ear plugs on any sort of journey.
You will, however, really need a close ratio gearbox in order to use that 100+ bhp.
Expect to re-build more often than with a lower-powered unit, possibly at around 15000 to 20000 road miles - less if used in competition.

#10 Cooperman

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 05:38 PM

Yes, twin 38 mm carbs will flow sufficient mixture as 38 mm is equal to 1.5" in round figures.

#11 minimender

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 06:44 PM

You will need at least a 286 cam, a big-valve and well gas-flowed head, comp ratio of around 11:1, twin 1.5" SU's or a 45DCOE Weber carb, a really good exhaust such as a Maniflow 1.75", a custom-curved or programmable distributor, fully balanced in order to pull the 6500 rpm you'll need, good inlet manifold, etc.
Forget the very high diff, you'll need a 3.2 or 3.4 in order to keep it all 'on-the-cam' which will mean a lot of revs in top when cruising, but the engine will be built to really rev.
The SC gears won't make much difference except that you'll need ear plugs on any sort of journey.
You will, however, really need a close ratio gearbox in order to use that 100+ bhp.
Expect to re-build more often than with a lower-powered unit, possibly at around 15000 to 20000 road miles - less if used in competition.

agree with above but personally would use a 3.6 or 3.7 diff
that would make first a bit low though so yes, close ratio box and it would fly

#12 Cooperman

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 10:43 PM


You will need at least a 286 cam, a big-valve and well gas-flowed head, comp ratio of around 11:1, twin 1.5" SU's or a 45DCOE Weber carb, a really good exhaust such as a Maniflow 1.75", a custom-curved or programmable distributor, fully balanced in order to pull the 6500 rpm you'll need, good inlet manifold, etc.
Forget the very high diff, you'll need a 3.2 or 3.4 in order to keep it all 'on-the-cam' which will mean a lot of revs in top when cruising, but the engine will be built to really rev.
The SC gears won't make much difference except that you'll need ear plugs on any sort of journey.
You will, however, really need a close ratio gearbox in order to use that 100+ bhp.
Expect to re-build more often than with a lower-powered unit, possibly at around 15000 to 20000 road miles - less if used in competition.

agree with above but personally would use a 3.6 or 3.7 diff
that would make first a bit low though so yes, close ratio box and it would fly


I have a 286 and everything else you could think of and has well over 100 bhp. I use a 3.9 final drive as it's a rally car and all I want is acceleration up to 7000 rpm in top, which is about 98 mph. A 3.2 would be too high on a SC box and a 3.44 still gives a high 1st.

#13 hughzy69

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 10:01 AM

So what would you be recommending if I'm running on 12's?

Also could I not just keep the ratio that is standard in the 1275 box?

Edited by hughzy69, 28 August 2011 - 10:02 AM.


#14 retroracer1275

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 10:19 AM

mine was running 93 at the wheels a few months back, but doesnt feel the same now it may need a re tune

1330
stage 4 head
649 cam
weber 45 on a 6" inlet
lightend and balanced
s/c drops
3:44

#15 MiniLandy

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Posted 28 August 2011 - 12:36 PM

Hahahaha another "I want 100bhp" thread. Brilliant.

Pete, I reckon you should just write up an article of engine specs for a few different applications (Rally, Race, Daily Driver etc) and give people like the OP a starting point. Get it stickied in this forum. :thumbsup:




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