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Fibreglassing Process Questions! And What To Buy?


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#16 maggies_minder

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 09:06 AM

i think the general rule, if you dont want to/cant afford to spend a fortune, is get the best you can stretch too.

#17 hen.hughes1

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 09:08 AM

I don't know what the best is though, higher RMS power? Also, is bigger always better?

#18 hen.hughes1

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 09:16 AM

Ah I'll just go and get them, if I don't like them I'll just get other ones one day :P I like fiddling about with stuff like that anyway! Fibreglassing day today so I will post pics of my experiences :) might be a hash up, might be good you never know! :proud:

#19 Ruckus

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 10:37 AM

Go for a good brand and spend the most you can, the bigger cone will give better bass up front... which is a good thing.

For the money those JBL's look pretty good.

#20 Ruckus

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 10:39 AM

i have covered all sides including the back/bottom with PJ's, except where the speaker will sit (on top). so the backs will become "solid" once ive F/G'd it.

the plans to whack them up against the kick panel. im not after sound prefection (as you can probably tell :lol: ) i just want to be able to here my music over the engine.


I think you will have a problem as they look way to small, the speaker will not have any air and will not be able to move = no bass.

#21 hen.hughes1

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 09:34 AM

UPDATE!!

So I did it yesterday, but the cardboard round the side isn't solid this morning. It's been about 15 hours now and it's still sticky and hasn't gone hard, maybe I didn't use enough hardener? The fibreglass inside isn't rock solid either?

I was thinking of mixing some more resin with lots of hardener and then brushing that on.

I fibre glassed the inside also, however it's not the best job as I have some folds in it where it kept sticking to my gloves instead of the inside of the pod, so I am going to put another layer on each one on the inside.

#22 Ruckus

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 11:31 AM

More hardener :)

#23 hen.hughes1

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 06:20 PM

will a couple of coats with more hardener do the trick then? As in will it harden the already part dried resin? Not worked with this before you see!

#24 Ruckus

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 06:21 PM

Yep that should work after an after fix :)

#25 Ruckus

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 10:00 PM

Yep that should work after an after fix :)


Sic ! "as an after fix" sorry spealing fail...

#26 freshairmini

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 08:51 PM

Ruckus those enclosures look brilliant. i was just wondering on where they would attach to?

#27 Brams96

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 06:15 AM

will a couple of coats with more hardener do the trick then? As in will it harden the already part dried resin? Not worked with this before you see!


If you mean just putting hardener directly on the sticky resin you've already applied then no that wont work. You have to mix the hardener in with the resin before it sets.
When you mix it put about 50ml of resin & add about a 20mm long squeeze of the hardener, it should turn a nice bright pink when mixed & get warm. You'll get to know what works after a couple of goes with it. I use those paper disposable cups you get in coffee machines to mix mine in. If you have too much hardener it will get quite warm and you will have to work quickly. Once you put another layer of properly mixed resin & fiberglass over the mould the original sticky coat won't matter.

Tips: If the fiberglass is sticking to your gloves then use the little mixing stick to hold it down while you pull the glove away.
Remember when filling get it as smooth possible then you dont have to sand as much back ;)
Once you have the mould to how you want it, mix a small amount of resin in with the body filler, which will make it slightly runnier, then apply it to the mould. This gives a smoother finish which is slightly harder.

#28 hen.hughes1

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 05:02 PM

Thanks for the tips. I'm starting to think that I won't need to use filler after all as it's all set nice and in a good circle. After a thin layer of some sort of foam, and a layer of the carpet I removed from the rear of an old Dihatsu Grand Move we scrapped, they should look good. One question on the pods, do I need to make any holes in it like ports in a sub? As I'll need to anyway for the wires to come out, if not then I'll silicone the hole once the wires are through. And any dash rail mounting tips?

Cheers guys, will post pics of how they look at the moment when I get home.




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