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#16 2000lukey

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 08:14 PM

Hi,
Can't offer any help with the faults on the DTA, but I would be interested to know what the fault is when you get to the bottom of it,

I could give you some figures of resistance etc off my sensors to check that?

Did you get a coms lead and cd with you DTA ecu when you bought it? I have not received this and wonder if it was meant to be included?

Cheers. Luke

#17 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 06 June 2015 - 10:44 AM

Should have a few updates today. Ill post pics up later

#18 RED HOT

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 08:34 AM

Patiently waiting here john....... but we need pictures



#19 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 08:39 AM

Pretty dill and uninspiring photos but a few of it how it stands now non the less. Inside on the dash still needs a bit of work. Out in these photos. Hoping to have it ready for a dyno run in northampton next Monday.

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#20 cptkirk

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Posted 23 June 2015 - 10:31 AM

Holy crap, you've gone all out on that steering wheel, kudos.......... Looks like I might need to start upgrading mine.



#21 RED HOT

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Posted 24 June 2015 - 12:09 PM

That steering wheel certainly has game!

 

Just noticed that your exhaust exists at the opposite side to mine. I wonder when and why they changed this. For curiosity reasons, have you got a close up of the engine bay?



#22 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 25 June 2015 - 04:36 PM

RED HOT- I also noticed that whilst having a gander through your thread. Not sure why they would of changed it. to be honest I think z cars make a lot of it up as they go along so I wouldn't be too bothered about it. I'll get a picture up for you though non the less. Wouldn't mind a few close ups if yours too mainly in and around the turbo to make sure my pipes are all in the right place. Also, which model garret turbo I'd that which you have used on yours? That will be my next upgrade.

#23 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 25 June 2015 - 04:46 PM

I'm afraid that's the best I've got for now. I'll get some more when I'm at the garage tomorrow.

Screenshot_2015-06-25-17-41-03_zpseiqdes

#24 RED HOT

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Posted 26 June 2015 - 10:52 AM

Looking at that picture there are a few slight changes, the exhaust is probably down to cost savings as mine looks to have more pipework being that it loops back on itself before entering the back box; not that it will make any difference to how it works really, but your way does allow more room for the air filter. !

 

How is your expansion tank plumbed in? the location I've plumbed mine into has been blocked off on yours; the blue silicone pipe section on the right hand side.

 

Not quite sure why your turbo oil return has a piece of silicon hose on it either, my standard turbo had a hard pipe that went from turbo to sump in one piece.

 

What's that in the window behind the passenger seat also? Just trying to piece together your charge cooling option...

 

With regards to a close up of mine I don't think I have any of the old set up that will show you what you need, if its with regards to the boost / vacuum pipes I used this little diagram as mine were totally wrong when I got it:- http://i822.photobuc...zps4dd09c5a.jpg

 

I'm currently running a Garrett GT2560r which is a Nissan S14-15 turbo so keep an eye out for those if that's what route you decide to take. There are other option that are easier to fit like the Volvo 19/20G I believe, some of these just require a different Volvo manifold (usually 5 pot, but the end pot can be cut off and welded closed and then bolted straight on), but the exhaust will still need to be modified a tad I'm sure. If you go Volvo turbo make sure the manifold is made in japan.

 

If you go Garrett or any other aftermarket turbo then be prepared to make a lot more changes, I've had to fabricate the manifold, modify the coolant & oil feeds, adapt the oil coiler pipework, oil drain to sump needs modding also as well as the exhaust and charge cooler piping.


Edited by RED HOT, 26 June 2015 - 10:52 AM.


#25 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 01 July 2015 - 07:28 PM

My expansion tank is plumbed into a t piece joiner in the hose up near the thermostat. Not sure why they've done it that way round.
It's a rad in the window for the charge cooler. Needs relocating though as it's going to get minimum air flow there. Think I will have to move the air filter as well for the same reason.
Yeah, I've seen the bigger volvo turbo units. That's probably the easiest way to go although the garrets are great turbos. I've owned an s13 and s15 before.

Have you got a pic of where you piped your hose from the bottom of the fuel pressure reg to the intake? Also are you using the standard map sensor located just under the fuel rail?

#26 RED HOT

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Posted 02 July 2015 - 10:37 AM

I did wonder if it was a charge cooler rad but the lack of air flow in that area confused me, but it seems that's a work in progress along with the air filter; something I need to work on also but its pretty tight so even some simple ducting is going to be a squeeze!

 

I'd love an S15, BIG soft spot for those.

 

I don't have the standard Volvo fuel rail, well I do but its been modified and the FPR removed and replaced with a fuel lab one elsewhere in the line, that said its still not connected to the inlet manifold as apparently the ecu controls the fuel flow! I wasn't aware of this until I plumbed it all in and it ran like a bag of nails with the vacuum pipe connected and Ok with it disconnected. An email and a few calls to Z-Cars gave me the above info. Is yours not connected either then?

 

I believe I'm running the standard map sensor, I've not changed it and its not something I've checked to be honest either, I'll have a look tonight and confirm. pretty sure I read somewhere that the early phase 1 engines didn't have them or 1 rather than 2 on the later models; I can't remember now!



#27 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 03:57 PM

No, mines not connected. I was inder the impression that when the intake pressure builds you need the vaccum pipe connected to draw more fuel in to suit.
I took it to a dyno last Monday and the bloke running it said it would need one. I'll try and contact z cars about this.

Also, I've sprung an oil leak around the gearbox seal where the drive shaft enters. Passenger side on ours, not sure about in a volvo car.
Have you got anyone you use for parts or a registration number you use when requesting information on engine parts? Or maybe a specific volvo breakers? Reg off the doner car would be ideal. I want to make sure I'm getting the right bits when I order things from autoparts stores. Also I've noticed parts for the t4 engine as early as mine are extremely hard to come by. I need a top cam cover. Lost mine like a moron and didn't think too much of it. Now however I cannot find one for love nor money.

#28 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 03:59 PM

Also sorry for poor grammar etc. I scribble most of this out on my phone.

#29 BlueminiJohn

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 04:08 PM

Being as you like them, that was my s15, Rb25 engine and running gear, apexi turbo.
Wish I'd never sold it :(

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Edited by BlueminiJohn, 04 July 2015 - 04:13 PM.


#30 RED HOT

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 04:42 PM

Nice 15, you don't see many in that colour. 

 

I was under the same impression as you which is why I purchased a fuel lab one and modded the fuel rail to run it. I'm having mine mapped again on Friday so will see what they say; if its required I just need to put the vacuum on. Let me know how you get on with z cars though. 

 

I don't have a top cam cover either, never got one with the car and I've been searching for years; got a box full of ones that don't fit! 

 

I don't have a reg or regular parts supplier I'm afraid. The few bits I have bought for the car have been from the local dealers and they've been very helpful. 

 

I haven't checked the map sensor yet either, been a bit Pre occupied but the rear bulkhead will def be removed next week so I'll check then. 






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