59 replies to this topic

[liirge]

Out of interest and a follow on from another thread

did you lap the ball joints in when last changed?

[Jordie]

what always seems to be over looked in these incidents is the brake hose.

If the wheel / hub etc as come away from its "normal" position under force/speed, it will have put stress on the brake hose, which could then lead to a possible failure in the future.

[Surfbluegarage]

hmmm good point jordie...

[Cosford Cowboy]

How long ago did you "adjust" your ball joints, ive seen it on here about the failures caused by adjusting an already worn out part that then causes a failure.

[tiger99]

Cosford Cowboy,

Very good point, and that is the reason why some joints end up being too tight, and break. The ball wears oval, and if you take out free play in the central position by removing shims, it is absolutely guaranteed to be much too tight when deflected to a large angle by suspension movement, so eventually (probably quite soon!) you get a fatigue fracture.

Because of the work involved in stripping the joints down to adjust shims, it is stupid penny-pinching not to replace the ball and seat abd do the job properly. In any case you need to renew the locktab, and the easiest way of getting a new one is in the kit.

I should add to what I said before that because the lower joint has a spring to prevent it rattling (the lower joint can become unloaded vertically during suspension movement) you should shim it up without the spring, to get good feel. With the nut torqued up, it should wiggle freely to every extreme position. Then you unscrew it, put the spring in, and with the same shims, torque it up to the same setting. You will then need a lot more force to wiggle it, but it still should be able to be deflected fully by hand, although it will feel somewhat tight.

[Boycie]

Most ball joints I see that fail.. have been installed incorrectly

In fact, an original joint that has been well-greased regularly and showing just a little play is probably safer than one that has been fitted too tightly/ without grease etc.
There were some repair kits of dubious quality floating about a few years back.. not sure if these have completely gone through the system yet.

[Shifty]

Ball joints and front suspension are always a worry.

Unless i'm 100% certain of the history or know the car I always like to pull apart and check.

I've found 2 or 3 cars where the retaining nut isn't tight and has been only been held by the locking tab. On stinky the front hub nut was only held by the split pin.

In the past I'm guilty of shimming them nut nowadays(especially considered the quality of newer parts) I just replace.

[Cosford Cowboy]

Its normally adjusting them that causes the issues, as the shape causes tight spots that bind up.

[Ethel]

Maybe tie rod bushes are also an issue if it let go under braking. Perhaps we could arrange with the OP to have the failed joint analysed if there's anyone on TMF who could arrange it - engineering student?

[Cosford Cowboy]

Now that would be interesting.

[Remylebleu]

taking it the garage friday, £110 for 3 ball joints, inner cv joint, new brake hose, plus pick up and check of front end, suspensions, knuckles, joints, the lot......that sounds good to me?

[Cosford Cowboy]

Why only 3 ball joints ? I cant think of a reputable garage that would only fit 3 !

[Remylebleu]

how many ball joints is there?

[Cosford Cowboy]

one on the top and bottom of both hubs so four, then there are 2 track control rod end bearings, or track rod ends.

[Remylebleu]

well hes changing four then, i just assumed there was 3