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The Rebuild - Track Orientated This Time.


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#91 Artful Dodger

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 10:28 PM

Nice, you going to get the shell blasted? It makes a much cleaner and nicer surface to work with and makes the end result a lot more pro! You can get them primed as well at the same time so they don't rust up.:P


Also, you want to run some ally bracing on the boot lid do it holds the curved shape. They flatten out otherwise.

#92 kcchan

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 10:43 PM

I won't get the shell blasted. I can't afford it. All the metal is clean metal, it's just got a mix of red and grey primers with areas of black making it look a real mess. I've started to coat everything in grey and it looks so much better in one colour.

I'll look into bracing the boot lid at some point. I just can't believe how flimsy it is. I guess you get what you pay for.

#93 kcchan

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 04:45 PM

Got one of my doors reskinned today with my Ali skins. Laid a bead of silicone between the mating surfaces.

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The other needs a repair to the bottom which I'll do if I don't run out of gas

#94 Artful Dodger

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Posted 16 April 2013 - 04:52 PM

Fair enough, I'm sure it will be Mega anyway!!!

Yeah they are super thin and light!!:D


Door skins look ace, bet they are much lighter!

#95 kcchan

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 06:35 PM

Rewinding back a little bit. Here are some of the photos that I took.

Heres some of the goodies that I got that came in very useful:
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Sliding window conversion for my doors. I welded in some 2mm thick angle:
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My rear subframe is pretty much finished now. It's been seam welded, drilled a little for good measure, painted and built up:
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Need some longer backplate bolts.

With the help of my best friend I made these boxes for the roll cage:
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Welding the straight edges on a nice flat surface is easy. Unfortunately when it came to welding the actual cage, it wasn't as neat as I would have liked so I'll grind the welds down and try again but that could be some time. Its difficult to weld round the notched tubes so I'll try it on some scrap first. I can see why companies charge so much for fitting.

#96 kcchan

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 06:52 PM

Heres a couple of the cage partially in:
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The front cage bars don't look even in that photo but I think it's just the photo. I took every precaution to make sure it was all even.

#97 kappa

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 08:46 PM

PM'd



#98 mad mk1

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:36 PM

I like your work mate! I am about now for a bit, let me know if you need any more NUTs mate! 

 

Simon.



#99 johnnyblaze

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:38 AM

seeeexxxyyyy welds mate, 



#100 domdee

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Posted 30 May 2013 - 04:53 PM

great thread. hurry up and post more



#101 kcchan

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 09:18 PM

Things have gone quite quiet, life gets in the way a little but I've done a tiny bit. A mate at work has a laser cutter so I drew this up. Some of the switches/circuit breakers need moving but I'll call this MK1.
 
IMG_0998_zps36ce09b7.jpg
 
IMG_0999_zpsc63e3ce0.jpg
 
IMG_1001_zps60bada05.jpg


#102 stevenford_uk

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 01:50 PM

Looks good, love the steering column mounts and the rear shock turrets. If you plan on MSA registering the car don't touch the welds on the cage with a grinder...they will not pass it if its been ground down.



#103 lucas1amps

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 05:21 PM

read all the way though your thread and also have read a copy of the mag cracking work keep it up :) 



#104 domdee

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 12:10 PM

does someone work on aircraft here? a few familiar looking nuts and switches



#105 mini93

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Posted 27 November 2013 - 07:33 PM

I gots to critisize... the Philips head screws on the switch panel arent all lined up the same, nor the lock nuts >_<

 

Other wise, looking swanky!






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