The SC kit has no specific compensation. It effectively runs just like a carb. Because of this the imbalance between inner and outer cylinders is no better than the carb.
If you want to improve the balance you need sequential injection.
You can still run the system closed loop, but this will be on the average of the AFR between the inner and outer cylinders.

Carb To Fuel Injection Project- Sc 5 Port Management System
Started by
Cadburymick
, Jan 18 2012 08:59 AM
37 replies to this topic
#31
Posted 04 February 2012 - 02:45 PM
#32
Posted 07 February 2012 - 10:16 AM
I thought the price was a bargin when you look at the price if a new ignition system & carb
it was that and the big improvement in low down torque & tuneability that made me choose this system.
it was that and the big improvement in low down torque & tuneability that made me choose this system.
#33
Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:46 PM
I have had a good week so far picked up my engine bits from machine shop
Crank regrind to +20 main & big ends new big end & main shells
bores honed out
new cam bearings supplied & fitted
total £280
Cleaned and flushed out the block & crank
Fitted crank cam & pistons
more work tomorrow & saturday
Crank regrind to +20 main & big ends new big end & main shells
bores honed out
new cam bearings supplied & fitted
total £280
Cleaned and flushed out the block & crank
Fitted crank cam & pistons
more work tomorrow & saturday
#34
Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:22 PM
Update
I had a good but sometimes frustrating week
fitted the crank rods pistons cam etc put it together with the rebuilt box turning the engine and it locked up
I assumed it was my fault and i had made a mess of the timing chain and the crank was comming into contact with the cam but it turned out to be the crank was catching the central oil pick up pipe
a bit frustrating causing me loads of head scratching and doubting my own ability but a piece of hard wood and hammer sorted it out
Turned my attention to the primary gear end float and that has been a good learning curve
When i first measured it using the haynes manual for guidance i came up with an end fload reading of 024" when it should be 003"-006"
I thought that was the reason for the oil seal leak that was obvious when i stripped the engine.
After research on the internet i found out i was not correctly measuring it and i should use two sets of feeler gauges to measure the float due to gear tilt when pushing in the feeler blade
I also found out i could fit the 'C'clip the other way round using the flat surface on the other side.
Today i went back & checked it all again and using the other side of the 'C' clip and using two feeler gauges my end float is 009" still not right but alot closer to what it should be.
Tomorrow i an going to try a diffrent retaining ring 'C' clip and thrust washers my mate has.
I was shocked how much new thrust washers are to buy
The only reason i double checked is i could not buy a new thrust washer big enough to get the clearance i thought i needed.
I will try to take a few photos of the 'C' clip with its wear marks and how i have done the two feeler gauge check and post them tomorrow.
Info on checking the end float is from calverst.com
I had a good but sometimes frustrating week
fitted the crank rods pistons cam etc put it together with the rebuilt box turning the engine and it locked up
I assumed it was my fault and i had made a mess of the timing chain and the crank was comming into contact with the cam but it turned out to be the crank was catching the central oil pick up pipe
a bit frustrating causing me loads of head scratching and doubting my own ability but a piece of hard wood and hammer sorted it out
Turned my attention to the primary gear end float and that has been a good learning curve
When i first measured it using the haynes manual for guidance i came up with an end fload reading of 024" when it should be 003"-006"
I thought that was the reason for the oil seal leak that was obvious when i stripped the engine.
After research on the internet i found out i was not correctly measuring it and i should use two sets of feeler gauges to measure the float due to gear tilt when pushing in the feeler blade
I also found out i could fit the 'C'clip the other way round using the flat surface on the other side.
Today i went back & checked it all again and using the other side of the 'C' clip and using two feeler gauges my end float is 009" still not right but alot closer to what it should be.
Tomorrow i an going to try a diffrent retaining ring 'C' clip and thrust washers my mate has.
I was shocked how much new thrust washers are to buy
The only reason i double checked is i could not buy a new thrust washer big enough to get the clearance i thought i needed.
I will try to take a few photos of the 'C' clip with its wear marks and how i have done the two feeler gauge check and post them tomorrow.
Info on checking the end float is from calverst.com
#35
Posted 18 February 2012 - 10:54 PM
i will be keen to see the results from this, i think the kit looks great, and in my opinion, its really good value.
#36
Posted 28 February 2012 - 11:04 AM
how's progress coming along
#37
Posted 05 July 2012 - 12:16 PM
any news on this?
#38
Posted 15 January 2013 - 08:36 PM
Looks like interesting project. I will keep my eye on this as im at the same! I have a Spi mini and I have bought the SC 45mm Spi throttlebody kit. My engine wil be a 1380 tuned engine and the works happening right now!! Hope to get the car back in couple weeks!!
Please see my thread!
http://www.theminifo...-road-cooper-s/
Please see my thread!
http://www.theminifo...-road-cooper-s/
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