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My 1310Cc Engine Build


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#16 miniman92

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 06:57 PM

I've just Pm'd Peter (aka cooperman) and he suggests linishing the backs of the oversized thrusts with some wet and dry so I'm going to give that a whirl tomorrow and see how I get on.

#17 racingenglishcars

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 08:49 PM

... I am just worried about not being able to achieve a uniform finish without any taper which I presume is hard to do by hand?

Ash

I have just used a micrometer caliper to make sure it's even. A feeler gauge to check the clearance afterwards.

#18 miniman92

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:58 PM

After closer inspection it looks as though these so called .005" oversized thrusts are more like .010"

Standard size thrust:

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Oversized thrusts:

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I just cant way it up. Does anybody know if standard size 998 thrust washers are thicker than 1275 ones?

My only theory is that minisport have sent me some .005" oversized thrusts for a 998 and not a 1275?

I tried for an hour to using some 600 grit wet and dry but it doesnt seem to do anything much at all!

Ash

#19 miniman92

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 12:51 PM

Ended up taking the thrusts to EMS in Crewe and Dave very kindly linished the backs of them for me for a £5............ result!

I now have a crank end float of .004".

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All of the pistons are now in...

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Cam and followers are in, the backplate is on, lightened duplex fitted and cam timing checked. Photobucket isn't playing ball so will upload some more pictures later on.

Cam timing is currently at 107.5 and I need 104 (taking in to account chain stretch,) so I need to get hold of a 4 degree woodruff key.

Also checked my idler gear end float and I need a 136-137 thou idler thrust washer, has anyone got one they want to sell?

Once I've got these bits then its just a case of mating the engine to the gearbox and finding a nice modified cylinder head with 22.8cc chambers. A nice cylinder head from the likes of SRE is going to cost around £500 so might have to find one second hand and have the chambers opened up, we shall have to wait and see!

Ash

#20 warning634

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 05:15 PM

A fantastic build, really enjoying this.

Stunning clubman by the way, do u have a link to your build?

Cheers

Kevin

#21 Foxy10

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 07:29 PM

Looks like its getting there pal ;)

#22 Cooperman

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:45 PM

That sure is looking good now. Well done.
It is great to see an engine being built carefully, thoroughly and properly.

#23 TopCatCustom

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:52 PM

I don't want to hijack the thread but I see you are going to use an offset woodruff key for your timing, I was wondering the same for my build, people love vernier timing sprockets but I was wondering if an offset key is just as reliable if not more so than a vernier timing set? I just don't like the thought of 6 bolts flying round on the sprocket holding your timing right, and you can lighten a fixed sprocket more if it doesn't have to be adjustable :)


p.s. As you checked the end float so well did you also check the bearing clearances with plastigauge or any other method? This will be a good thread and your engine build is almost identical to mine which I haven't started yet! (Minisport block too which has been double checked and bore/machining tolerances are perfect!)

Edited by C4NN0N, 02 April 2012 - 10:59 PM.


#24 miniman92

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Posted 03 April 2012 - 03:13 PM

Thanks for all the great comments everyone! In all fairness I'm quite a bit behind where I wanted to be right now due to low funds, but then again sometimes it's a good thing just to take your time with things.

C4NN0N, the main reason I chose a standard lightened duplex and woodruff key is mainly due to cost. I don't see the point in spending all that money on a vernier duplex when woodruff keys are so cheap! To be fair though, I've heard great things about swiftune and piper vernier duplex gears; they are race proven so I don't think reliability is much of an issue with them..... but I see where you are coming from.

I checked the sizes of the crank journals using my vernier gauge, and the crank was tightened down in three stages (20, 40 and then 65 lb.ft) to check for any line bore problems after each cap was tightened down. The crank was nice and smooth and could be turned using finger and thumb on each end...... so everything is good so far!


#25 Foxy10

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 06:44 PM

Have you made any progress pal?

#26 MiniHead95

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 03:32 PM

I know it's been a while since you started this project.. but how did things work out in the end, engine run ok?  :proud:






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