19 replies to this topic

[AC&SONS]

I have been trying to grease the front ball joints on my son's 1977 Mini 1000 but it wouldn't seem to go in. I took the grease nipples out and they were clear but when I put them back in, it was just forcing the grease out from around the sides of the nipple.

I remember when I used to do my own Mini years ago that the grease would squeeze out of the rubber cover when it was full

Is there any way to clear the grease ways inside the ball joint seat to allow the grease to go all the way in other than taking the ball joints off, which I don't really want to have to do, but I also don't want to run the car without knowing that there is plenty of grease inside the joints.

There isn't any play in the joints at the moment, so I want keep it that way by pumping in some grease.


Any help would be great.

Thanks

[bmcecosse]

Strip them - inspect and clean, reshim and then check the grease goes in.....

[Artful Dodger]

new grease nipples? cost pennies:)

[Pigeonto]

Probably shimmed a little on the tight side, I had the same and it stops the grease going in

[Gr4h4m]

also give the centre of the nipple a push with something pointed they can sometimes stick shut.

[tiger99]

Don't drive it until the ball joints have been correctly shimmed. They are almost certainly far too tight, and are extremely likely to snap, which will at best cause damage, and at worst could be fatal.

If they are perfectly shimmed, no end float but still free moving with finger pressure, a good grease gun will struggle to pump any grease through, but some will come through eventually. If they are slightly worn, they are easy to grease. A thou of end float is ok, and you can just feel that. It allows a film of grease between the surfaces, too tight does not, and contrary to popular belief, actually increases wear.

I used to get upwards of 60,000 miles from joints which were set up looser than some people here recommend, twice as long as I got from the factory originals. But they must not be loose enough to knock or rattle, of course.

[pogie]

Not sure if this is your problemm but there are a bunch of ball joints going around that do not have the grease path ground onto the side of the ball and so do not except any grease. I was warned about these at Minispares when I asked for some "genuine" Rover ball joints last year.

See here - http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=36102

Edited by pogie, 04 February 2012 - 08:57 AM.

[AC&SONS]

Thanks for all the info. guys; I will dismantle them both, clean them out and check the shims etc and the grease paths.

I want to make sure that everything is spot on because it will be my son's first car so it goes without saying that everything needs to be safe as possible.

I'll keep you posted

Cheers

[mikey72]

We did that with my daughters.

For the cost it was easier just to strip everything down, new gaiters on the drive shafts (using a cone), new steering gaiters, new ball joints and track rod ends, and new discs and pads in our case.
Sorted for a few years now.

I did the water pump, thermostat, and belt at the same time, and flushed everything through, and new antifreeze.
New set of plugs and points.

She's never had a problem with it, so I reckon it was worth doing when we had the chance.

[AC&SONS]

I stripped the suspension down today to check the ball joints; one was quite loose and the other was tight. they both looked fairly worn so I have decided to renew them. I also have removed the lower arm and pin and will renew the bushes on this as well whilst everything is stripped down.

The other item I have removed is the tie rod to renew the rubber bushes on this. When I took it off, I noticed that there is a slight bend in it near the end that fits onto the subframe; is this normal? The car seems to track OK with no pull to either side and the tyre wear looks normal, so I have no reason to think that anything is out of line. I have put a photo on to show what I mean. If I was to get a new one and it was straight; assuming it would be longer; I presume this would affect the tracking? If so, I am tempted to put the old rod back on and just renew the rubber bushes; any ideas?

Thanks

[tiger99]

Don't use that tie rod, and don't try to straighten it either. It is scrap. Every time you brake with a bent tie rod it tries to straighten, and every time you accelerate, it tries to bend more. Sooner or later, it suffers fatigue failure and snaps.That will do damage, even if you are going slowly, and at any reasonable speed it can be fatal..

[AC&SONS]

Great, thanks for that; I will fit the new rods.

How will this affect the tracking?

Will I have to get it set up at a tyre fitters or is it something I can do myself?

Cheers

[bmcecosse]

Just hammer it straight -done it many many times in the past. Never ever heard of one breaking in almost 50 years of Minis..... They get bent with folks putting a jack under them.

[Bungle]

someone has jacked your mini up on the tie bar mounts at the front of the subframe

as the car goes up and the wheels down the tie bar rests on the jack and bends on the end just like that

[tiger99]

I know of two which broke because they had been bent and straightened, and one which broke because it remained bent, plus several more where the bolt broke due to being too loose or too tight. Don't take chances on suspension components, it is not worth it.