19 replies to this topic

[mailman]

Awesome thanks, I was hoping you'd reply. I've read yout Step by Step Guide a few times to wrap my head around it. I couldn't post there though as it's a FAQ (which is good, don't want it cluttered).

Yea it's an engine that is complete but hasn't been run yet as I've been waiting for a mate with a timing light to be free. I'm torn between whether it'd be easier install the kit now, when I know that the engine is at 8BTDC on number 1. Or, whether it will be easy enough to find the right timing point again once it's been run. I suppose if need be I can rotate the engine through to the correct timing and do it at the same time I retorque the head and check ocker clearances?

[KernowCooper]

Its important running in a new camshaft not to let the engine idle over, so avoid any attempt at trying to set the timng on initial start up, I'd do the timing staticly and then start and run the engine to run in the cam,and when you've got time then fit the electronic ignition.

[mailman]

Ok, thanks for that! So as long as the static timing is pretty close then it's not going to do any major damage or anything during the first 20-30min at 2000-2500rpm?

On a related note, do you recommend some sort of fan or something aimed at the nearside wheel arch to assist cooling whilst stationary? Or will the engine fan suck enough air?

[cal844]

set the car up, TDC etc with the points fitted, once you have the car at TDC, mark the dizzy and engine (screwdriver and hammer works a treat) then line the dizzy up with the mark on the engine that you made with the screwdriver and hammer. that should be enough to start the car. now, rotate the dizzy small amounts until you are happy with how it sounds. then tighten the bolt on the clamp and have a drive to check it under load.

[Lotusman33]

Hi Everyone
I have a question?

I have a Mk1 mini which has been off the road for 7 years while I restored it, I replaced the 850 with a 998 Cooper block and fitted a brand new positive earth wiring loom.
I have converted the car to negative earth by doing the regulator conversion (Actually did this before the rebuild along with fitting an alternator).
At the time I fitted a Accuspark 25D electronic distributor and matching coil (Red).

Now here comes my error,
I used the manual to connect all the new wires so connected the White wire to positive on the coil and white and black to the negative. I then did the same with the Accuspark connecting the red to positive and the black wire to the white and black wire in the loom which connected to the original distributor.

No spark.....
I then read the thread I used to do the conversion all those years ago and realised I should have swapped the white and white/black wires around on the coil, so I am guessing I have blown the module?

Now my question is when I buy a new module for £40 where should I connect the red and black wires?
Should red still go to the positive side of the coil which is now the white/black wire or should I connect to the negative side? The reason I ask is the black module wire has a male spade to connect to the original white/black distributor wire.
Hope that doesn’t sound to confusing?
Another option is I can buy a positive earth module for the same price?

Any help would be appreciated
Dave :)