21 replies to this topic

[runkthepunk]

Hello

I have acquired a few new engine parts and want to know what the best components are that I should buy

The engine spec is:

1275 A+ bored to + 40 and skimmed to top of pistons
Omega + 40 Flat Top Pistons
Standard 12g940 Big Valve Head
Standard CAM6232 Crank
Standard 1275 Conrods
Dulpex Chain
Standard 1275 Gearbox (not sure about final drive)
HIF44 on Mini Spares Manifold
Pipercross Foam Filter
RC40 Exhaust

not sure about camshaft but I do have a new Swiftune SW5 cam which I could fit

I will need:

Distributor / Ignition system
Flywheel
Clutch

Which Distributor should I be fitting?
Should I go for an electronic ignition instead of points?
Will a standard flywheel be okay or should I try and stretch to a lightened one?
Standard Clutch or an uprated one?

Thinking about getting but will I even need them?

Engine Steadies
Oil Cooler

Sorry if this all sounds daft but am always trying to learn

thanks

Edited by runkthepunk, 06 February 2012 - 08:49 PM.

[Artful Dodger]

what do you want? do you want a sporty town cruiser or a balls out racer?

when choosing cams and lightening parts, its very easy to say, well the lighter / lumpier the better. not so, it depends on the application

[runkthepunk]

what do you want? do you want a sporty town cruiser or a balls out racer?

when choosing cams and lightening parts, its very easy to say, well the lighter / lumpier the better. not so, it depends on the application

Sporty Town cruiser really. I don't hit the revs all that hard and don't want a terrible lumpy car that said however I want a noticeable difference from my old 1275. Thats why I got the swiftune Cam a while back but I never fitted it to my old engine. I wanted to ask though incase it would be inappropriate for this rest of the engine spec

[Artful Dodger]

i have never fitted an sw5 or tried any of swiftunes range but from what i hear the sw5 is a good, non lumpy cam.

i dont think you will be needing lots, i wouldnt fit leccy ignition, stick with points.

the flywheel can stay the same, but wouldnt do any harm fitting a slightly lighter one :) if you lightened it all it would do is make the engine accelerate quicker ( less mass to turn) and make the engine run lumpier as there is less to dampen out the " explosions" inside the bores.

clutch can stay standard. a cooper S clutch will be as good as you will ever need with a road sport engine. fitting a 'grey' rally clutch plate would make it more of an 'on' and 'off' switch instead of a normal clutch

OIl cooler. no, unless you trash the pants off it on a regular occurance.

and if the engine steadys are in good condition and are maintained, they will be fine.


i would think about some head modifications. maybe buy a road sport modified head from places like mini sport or mini spares etc.

with that spec it should run to bad;)

Edited by MiniclubmanGT, 06 February 2012 - 09:16 PM.

[runkthepunk]

Thanks mate nice advice. Also glad to know I can go down the cheaper route of buying standard components

I actually have an 11 stud cooper s head with old style high lift forged rockers that I could use instead of the one thats with it so maybe thats a better choice?

[Artful Dodger]

yeah definatly!

it would make it a bit more lumpy with the high lift rockers but not a crazy amount:) i think that would not be a bad spec at all:P

[bmcecosse]

Cooper S forged rockers are NOT 'high lift' - thankfully........ Is it an AEG163 head??
The SW5 cam is a very 'flat' cam - just has high lift........ It wouldn't be my choice . My favourite cam is the 544 - or I suppose any of the modern copies.....usually known as 286 these days.

Edited by bmcecosse, 06 February 2012 - 10:25 PM.

[runkthepunk]

Cooper S forged rockers are NOT 'high lift' - thankfully........ Is it an AEG163 head??
The SW5 cam is a very 'flat' cam - just has high lift........ It wouldn't be my choice . My favourite cam is the 544 - or I suppose any of the modern copies.....usually known as 286 these days.

I don't know about the rockers then. I was told they are higher lift than normal but like I said still learning but maybe I was lied to. They have markings but are hard to read.

I don't have the head with me I was told however that it is a MK3 Cooper 'S' head, it has a MOWOG number stamped on the mating face of the block that can still be read despite a skim or two over the years but I forget what it reads.

I will try and find out bear with me

Edited by runkthepunk, 07 February 2012 - 12:01 AM.

[Artful Dodger]

pictures:) post some pics of the head, people will be able to tell what it is:P

[runkthepunk]

pictures:) post some pics of the head, people will be able to tell what it is:P

I can't at the moment as the head is up north and I am in London.

As soon as I get chance I will take some pictures and get the number from the head. The number I mentioned is actually near the thermostat I think.

Edited by runkthepunk, 07 February 2012 - 08:59 PM.

[runkthepunk]

Okay I got my mum to go and have a look at it.

The number near the thermostat is 12G1805 and the letter S

A quick search suggests its mk3 cooper s / 1300 GT/ midget and other cars too. Is it a decent head?

It is 11 Stud and has the pipe at the back for the heater pipe?

Single valve springs

Forged rockers but very hard to read the numbers and my mum can't tell whet they say.

The ports are quite smooth and is generally in very good nick. I bought it a year ago and have never fitted it

[Turbo Phil]

If it's a later S head it will have the smaller 29mm ex valves, rather than the earlier head which featured a 31mm ex. {both had the larger inlet} If so the big valve MG Metro head will give the same results.
As anything with the words "Cooper S" is selling for silly money at the moment, If you have a choice of both, I would flog the S head & fit the MG one. I presume when you say big valve 12G940 head, you mean the early MG head with the 35.7mm inlet ? ......

Phil.

Edited by Turbo Phil, 07 February 2012 - 10:14 PM.

[runkthepunk]

If it's a later S head it will have the smaller 29mm ex valves, rather than the earlier head which featured a 31mm ex. {both had the larger inlet} If so the big valve MG Metro head will give the same results.
As anything with the words "Cooper S" is selling for silly money at the moment, If you have a choice of both, I would flog the S head & fit the MG one. I presume when you say big valve 12G940 head, you mean the early MG head with the 35.7mm inlet ? ......

Phil.

Yes its an earlier MG head with the large inlet and exhaust valves I actually have two of them one but one needs to be skimmed/checked first before fitting.

I currently run a later type MG metro head (at least that what I was told) with the smaller exhaust valves. Thats the engine in my car now.

I thought all Cooper S heads including the MK3 had the largest size inlet and exhaust valves? Oh well maybe I will sell it then

Edited by runkthepunk, 07 February 2012 - 10:26 PM.

[Turbo Phil]

The MG heads only changed inlet valve sizes from 35.7mm to 33.3mm when they went unleaded, the ex valve size of 29.4mm was the same on all 1275 engines ever. Apart from the Early S, which had the 31mm.

[runkthepunk]

The MG heads only changed inlet valve sizes from 35.7mm to 33.3mm when they went unleaded, the ex valve size of 29.4mm was the same on all 1275 engines ever. Apart from the Early S, which had the 31mm.

Ah okay then that must be it because I was told it was an unleaded head originally.

I know one of the MG heads is the largest type inlet one as its a very early MG motor but now I am thinking the other might not be.

The rockers on the MK3 Cooper S head I have are the 1.3 ratio forged ones are they worth keeping or sell them with the head?

Edited by runkthepunk, 07 February 2012 - 10:38 PM.