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MOT failure questions


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#1 redfish0

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 02:21 PM

My mini failed its mot. I have 3 pages of stuff to do :'(
One item on the list says "nearside innner front cv joint insecure".
Being a noobie sorry, I've never changed a cv joint before so I dont know much about them. Does this mean its basicly knackered and needs replacing? I didnt think it would have a mounting bracket which is the only other thing I can think of.

Another on the list is steering rack insecure. There's also a bit in the advisory part that says both ball joints on the end of the steering rack have slight movement. Is this a new/refurb steering rack job?

Thanks.

#2 miniboo

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 02:24 PM

you can change the steering rack ball joint without changing the whole rack. I think you can buy just the end bits.

#3 Big_Adam

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Posted 20 February 2006 - 01:34 AM

if the steering rack insecure. take off the old U-bolts and cheack the platic bit still on them this stops the rack moving also you could replace them with a bit of inner tube with two holes punched in it. i know i've heard that from someone. the ball joints you should just be able to take a shim out to and re grease them then that should be fine.
on the CV joint.....................i haven't a clue.

#4 Dan

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Posted 20 February 2006 - 03:44 PM

Inner CV joints (probably a pot joint depending on how old your car is) are pretty easy to change. It probably is best to change it but it depends on exactly what is meant by insecure. It might just be that it isn't popped onto its circlip properly. Get the car securely up on stands and have a look at the joint. Drain the oil first in case it's so insecure that it'll fall out when you touch it, if that happens the oil's going to be coming out all over you! Try to knock the joint in towards the gearbox housing and push the driveshaft hard into the joint to see if you can get it to lock into place.
If it turns out you do need to replace it all you need to do is release the bottom swivel hub ball joint on that side (replace the top arm rebound rubber with a wooden wedge or a nut first to hold the suspension up solid) and pull the joint out of the box (you may need to lever it out to get it off it's clip, remember to drain the oil!) and then knock the drive shaft out of the joint. At this point check to see if the circlip has come out of it's groove or gone missing entirely, new circlips are available from Mini specialists. If the clip is the problem then you can probably re-use the joint, if not just fit a new one. They're pretty easy to deal with.
If you have joints other than pot joints then it'll need slightly different attention so shout out if you do and someone will respond.

As for the steering rack, try just tightening up the nyloc nuts on the bulkhead first but it probably is the Nylon strips that have gone missing as Adam says. They are just thin shims of Nylon about 3" long by 1" wide with 1/4" holes punched at each end, these locate over the U-bolts and the strip wraps around the rack to hold it firm. Pretty easy to fabricate but I think the original is still available. When tightening the rack you must try to keep the same amount of threads showing above each nut on the end of 1 bolt if you understand what I mean, so that the U-bolt doesn't turn around the rack as you tighten it and stays balanced.
Be careful with your U-bolts as they are NLA and they aren't just standard exhaust clamp types as you'll see, they have a flat section in the middle to spread the load over the rack casing and avoid denting it.

Ask your MOT inspector whether he's talking about the track rod ends or the steering rack track rod ball joints. If it's the track rod ends then you need to replace these which is simple enough but if it's the steering rack ball joints you may well need a new rack. Some racks have re-buildable balljoints that you can service if you can get hold of the shims (not the same as swivel hub ball joint shims) but apparantly some don't and in either case it's a lot easier to re-build them off the car so your rack will be coming out one way or another.

#5 redfish0

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 12:01 AM

Thanks for all the advice. I've been looking at the rust failure points :'(
oh dear oh dear. Here comes some photos.

http://gallery98629....et/c867647.html

If anyone has any good tips for sorting this, it would be appreciated. I'm assuming its repairable.

#6 miniboo

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 07:15 AM

thats a fair old bit o rust!! will take a fair bit of working to get it sorted. inner and outer sills and rear bins and floor by the looks of it

#7 Jammy

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 07:59 AM

That is a fair bit of rust, but no where near unrepairable! Bit of time and practice and it'll look brand new!

One peice of advice though, you should never jack up a mini on its floor (unless using a long peice of wood, etc to spread the load), always use the subframes (unless very badly rotten!) when just using a jack.

#8 redfish0

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 06:41 PM

I've got quite a bit of work to do if I want to keep it on the road. Oh well.

My girlfriends dad said that there are floor panels that will probably replace a fair bit of the rust. I think m-machine look like they might have them but I cant see much for the estate. Are van or traveller ones just the same?

#9 camp freddy

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 09:36 PM

try this link for mini sport,they list van panels


http://www.minisport...s-products.html

Don't look too bad compared to my mini (bootifull 'listed under projects) take a look.


It's all good fun!!!!

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#10 redfish0

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Posted 21 February 2006 - 10:52 PM

Well i've had another hour or so out there knocking rust out. The holes are getting bigger. The bucket on the passenger side almost has no bottom left in it now.

I feel quite cheated although unusually, not absolutely furious. All of the area's I've knocked out have been full of filler, fibreglass or bathroom sealant. Its quite disapointing because the previous owner said the sills and floors had been done to get it though the mot. It wasnt just me that had been tricked by the sounds of it, even the mot place.

Thanks for the link for panels. I've emailed them to find out if van/traveller panels fit.
Thats a fine bit of rust you have there too. ;D

I think I have a name for my mini too now. Fillerpa. :ph34r: ^_^

#11 redfish0

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 01:40 PM

Well I've had a look on m-machine and minisport. According to m-machine, traveller panels are the same as estate panels. ;D

Only problem is, I can tell which panels I actually need. e.g, on m-machine here, http://www.m-machine...oor Repairs.htm Theres a funny rounded square on the back of each panel. I dont remember seeing an area like that on my mini.

Can someone help me and give me an idea what panels I actually need please? Its quite confusing when your new to all this (especially on minisport where there are no photos).

Thanks.

#12 camp freddy

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 11:20 PM

If you go on the' mini spares' web site they have a downloadable catalogue I think
that has pictures of panels in it :w00t:

Carl.

#13 minidaves

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 11:28 PM

location some of us body repairers/restorers may be able to help as for panels yep can get most of them no issue

dave

#14 redfish0

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Posted 28 February 2006 - 01:48 PM

Does anyone know if theres there a good book, website or something that will show how to replace the floor?
I've just got a haynes restoration manual but it doesnt have anything about replacing a floor though :w00t:(

Thanks

#15 redfish0

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Posted 03 March 2006 - 09:38 PM

Anyone? There must be something out there. ;)




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