11 replies to this topic

[Brawlyrox]

OK, was looking for some advice really.
I bought the clubman seen in my avatar a while back and was told it had a 1275GT engine. Trouble is we tried all sorts to get it running right and we cant. Pretty much the only thing that we have not changed is the distributor. I.e I tried all the usual stuff and even put a diff carb as the old one seemed to be a problem.
Now can anybody tell me if the 1275GT engine had a significantly different curve to other 1275's if this is the case I should really be hunting for a new distributor. Just to clarify things my engine number is 12H706AAH followed by 021294 (I dunno what this bit means) so according to IME, it could be either a 1275gt or a MK3 cooper S, but may even just be a boggo high comp 1275. So would like help here aswell.
Thanks Nick

[Wil_h]

What curve the dizzy has will make no differance to how the car starts.

You're problem will be either no spark or no fuel. The fact that you are considering changing the dizzy means you have no spark.

Is the coil getting a good supply voltage? And heve you double checked that everything is correctly connected (including plug leads the right way round) and that the timing is approximately right. Retarding it loads will help it start.

Also, how old is the fuel you are using, Minis are quite sensitive to old fuel. If it's more than a couple of months old then tru a bit of easy start.

Wil

[Brawlyrox]

The car starts no problem, the trouble is the car does not like running unless the timing is set to something like 15-20 and then even set this high it spits under load(by spits i mean it makes a spitting noise) Leads are all on correct and it fires fine its just this problem. We are aware that the needle could be causing this but I didnt think it would throw the timing off like this. Ordering a needle today helped chosen by WINSU - VERY GOOD PROGRAMME but still suspicious whether the dizzy is wrong,

Thanks Nick

[Wil_h]

Should have read the original post properly.

Have you checked for air leaks on the manifold and that the vacuum advance is working properly?

[Brawlyrox]

Thats alright Wil, I have not directly checked for airleaks altho I did gunk the engine yesterday and the only apparent airleak is from where I didnt tighten the sparkplugs properly so small bubbles were seen. But after that was sorted still playing up. Also we have blocked up the vacuum advance for the mo as it isnt working correctly.

Thanks Nick

[Herman]

It might be that there is something called "resistor wire" to the coil. If your car has is wired this way and you are using a ballasted coil ASWELL, the car will misfire badly (cough and splutter) when you try and rev it.

Is this a possibility?

Had it on mine (bought it as a project,) and it drove OK until you put the headlights on!

If this is possibly the problem, I'm afraid I can't tell you how to fix it, I took mine to an autosparky evetually... I guess you just identify which is the resistor wire and replace with normal stuf!?

[Brawlyrox]

Thanks I will check that. Strangely its not mis-firing just 'spitting' under load.

[Guess-Works.com]

A 12H706 is most defintely a GT engine, and should have a rod change box and an alternator. Therefore the tuning data for the engine is as follows...

Unfortunately I can't load the picture, but it should have a 25D4 serial no's 41257 or 41214, or a 45D4 41419

[dklawson]

The dizzy will not be the problem per se... not for the problems you're describing. The truth be told, you can swap the 23D4, 25D4, and 45 series dizzys from one car to another (regardless of origin... even swapping from things like Morris Minors, Midgets/Sprites, MGBs, etc.) and put them in the Mini. The car will start and drive fine if everything else is alright. The car may not develop its potential power and it may ping under load, but it's not going to "spit".

You are right to start your tests on the ignition system. However, don't go nuts. Start by making sure the advance weights under the breaker plate are free to move. Also make sure the points cam (square lobe thing) is free to rotate and snap back under spring tension when twisted. This is more important on a car that's been sitting for a long time as these two parts can gum up and stick in place preventing any advance of the spark. Once everything is free to move and oiled, make sure the points and condenser are new and that the gap/dwell is set correctly. Make sure the coil is correct as stated above, and finally set the ignition timing. Go 100% through the ignition system and make sure it is all to spec... then move on to the fuel system.

If you take the air cleaner off, is the spitting you're hearing coming through the exhaust or the carb(s)? If it's coming out of the carbs, check your fuel filter(s), float valves, and carb jets. Running way lean (like a starved carb) will result in small (or large) backfires through the carb.

[Brawlyrox]

Thanks all, to be honest I not once looked into the fuel system. I will go back through tonight and check distributor, plugs leads etc etc then see if the problem is still going. My new carb parts should be here tomorrow I am keen to see if this will make any difference. Thanks for clearing up the distributor issue as we only have this 1 and a 998 one so we couldnt compare between two of the same kind. Cheers GW for letting me finally know I got a 1275gt engine. Its a bit poorly at the mo and I dont know whether to buy a new one or get this one sorted.

Nick

[Jammy]

Perhaps your mini has just been put into shock by the fact that your working on it!

[Brawlyrox]

Very funny its ready for its MOT once this is sorted.