27 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

That's a shame John. There is nothing I can add to the advice given above.

Yes, its a shame that I have to rectify with a new gasket etc. But just one of those things really. Its a days worth of work including driving and resetting valve clearancance etc etc

[mk=john]

Hi
Today I removed the cylinder head etc, and have removed all the cylinder head bolts and what I found was very surprising. All of the threads holes for the shorter studs go through to the water jacket!! The holes for the longer studs are all blind threaded holes.

It is obviously like that intentionally as the whole of the hole is open to the jacket (not corroded) (a through hole). I am thinking there can be to reasons for this:

• The engine builder made a huge blunder if he has worked on the threaded holes at the top of the block.
• This this is an early 1960 engine, perhaps they were made this way and the threads on the studs needed to be sealed. And perhaps a design change meant that future engines would have blind holes for all of the cylinder head studs.

But the thing I am worried about, is what do I do now? Will the `Red Hermitite' sealant mentioned by Cooperman earlier in this thread seal the threads?

Thanks
John

Edited by mk=john, 11 March 2012 - 06:33 PM.

[minidaves]

humm i would proberly use stud lock on the threads to seal them

[Cooperman]

Hi
Today I removed the cylinder head etc, and have removed all the cylinder head bolts and what I found was very surprising. All of the threads holes for the shorter studs go through to the water jacket!! The holes for the longer studs are all blind threaded holes.

It is obviously like that intentionally as the whole of the hole is open to the jacket (not corroded) (a through hole). I am thinking there can be to reasons for this:

• The engine builder made a huge blunder if he has worked on the threaded holes at the top of the block.
• This this is an early 1960 engine, perhaps they were made this way and the threads on the studs needed to be sealed. And perhaps a design change meant that future engines would have blind holes for all of the cylinder head studs.

But the thing I am worried about, is what do I do now? Will the `Red Hermitite' sealant mentioned by Cooperman earlier in this thread seal the threads?

Thanks
John

That is indeed very odd. The red Hermetite should seal it all up. I've never encountered this before, even on early cars, but the '11th bolt' on the 'S' often broke through to the water jacket and a smear of sealant usually sorts this out.
All you can do is to give it a try really.

[mk=john]

Well
It's very odd to me also. I have another spare MOWOG engine from an early car (I cant say how early), and all the stud holes on that are blind holes. i checked today.
For the engine in my car, it seems this was intentional, wether it was an early design flaw rectified on later engines I just dont know. I have no reason to think why the engine builder would make these through holes, that would obviously be a huge mistake on his part.

I will try the Red Hermitite to seal the threads, as that is my only option. Will do that next weekend and keep posted

Cheers
John

[mk=john]

Actually, checking on the internet, it seems that lots of diffrent types of engines have the head bolts or studs which go through water jackets, and they all stipulate using sealant if they do.

I am kinda now thinking this was intentional on my very early engine, and modified on later engines to have blind holes as having all five shorter studs breaking through would have been highly improbable.

Edited by mk=john, 11 March 2012 - 09:12 PM.

[dklawson]

If you cannot find the compound that Cooperman suggested, look for Loctite-569. It is a pipe thread sealant used on both tapered and straight threads. Degrease the stud and the tapped hole, apply a drop to the female threads and a drop to the end of the stud and thread the stud in finger tight. Allow an hour or so for the sealant to set then proceed as normal. The threads will be sealed and you will be able to remove the stud later if you want... albeit with a bit more torque.

[mk=john]

I have found the compound cooperman suggested. I have ordered it on Ebay

[Cooperman]

That will work fine.
Let us all know how you get on with the job.

[tiger99]

Yes, either of the sealnts mentioned will do the job correctly. Red Hermetite used to be available in Halfords and probably every car spares shop, probably still is. Pipe sealant can probably be had from a plumbers merchant, or a car spares shop. Please don't use Loctite Studlock, as one day you may break a stud, and need to get it out again. Studlock will theoretically allow it to come out, but with a lot of torque, and if there is only a broken stump, that may be rather difficult....

At least one of my Minis, the 1976 model, had some stud holes which broke through into the water jacket, so I assume it is quite normal. Either the castings or the drilling depth, or both, may have been a bit variable.

[mk=john]

Hi
Thanks for the info all of you.

Tiger99, thanks for info about your 76 mini. I guessed this must have been design intent on this particular block on my car, but now after reading on the internet about all the many other brands of engines that can have the studs going through the water jacket, I am happier!

Cheers
John

[mk=john]

Hi
I have now replaced te cylinder head, and I have used new studs, using `hermitite red' on the threads to seal them on the block. I took the car out for a 50 miles run this morning, and the leak has now gone, so I am much happier.
Spark plug colour is buiscuit brown, runs like a gem!

Now that the car had done 50 miles since cylinder head replacement, its time to retorque it and reset valve clearance......thats a job for tomorrow.

Thanks for the help. I'm now well happy!
John

[dklawson]

That's great news John! I hope you have lots of nice spring weather to enjoy driving the car.