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Replacing Rear Suspension Cones!


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#16 Bungle

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 04:36 PM

i don't think it's short shocks stopping the suspension being raised

as you can see from your pic as you jack the car up the wheel does come down

the suspension cone doesn't look flat so it's a cheap hilo that doesn't adjust very far or the knuckle and cup have worn

#17 A362 TTU

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 05:41 PM

i don't think it's short shocks stopping the suspension being raised

as you can see from your pic as you jack the car up the wheel does come down

the suspension cone doesn't look flat so it's a cheap hilo that doesn't adjust very far or the knuckle and cup have worn

Thanks very much, the Hi Lo appears to be at the top of its adjustment (a good inch of thread is on show).

How can I find out about what's causing my issue. A wether it is he hi Lo or knuckle and cup.

To be honest I know where the hi Lo bit is but not the knuckle/cup.

#18 jpw1275

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 06:37 PM

From your suspension cone follow along the hi lo and the knuckle joint is at the end which fits into your radius arm, would be easier to check with your wheel off buddy

Cheers james

#19 A362 TTU

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 08:44 PM

From your suspension cone follow along the hi lo and the knuckle joint is at the end which fits into your radius arm, would be easier to check with your wheel off buddy

Cheers james


Had the wheel off but back on now (car is my daily).

Will have a look at them bits as soon as I get the chance. What am I looking for? How will I know they are my issue?

Thanks for the help guys

#20 Spitz

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:23 PM

Knuckle joints/cups are cheap.
If the cup is worn through it will indeed drop the ride height .
You will need to undo the shocks at the top to replace them.
The fuel tank doesn't have to be totaly removed ( low fuel level is a good idea though ). You can losen/remove the strap, remove gas cap and fuel filler rubber grommet, and wiggle the tank out of the way enough to get at the top nut of the shock.
( make sure you have enough "slack" in the rubber fuel line on the bottom and that the clamps are tight )
( also...have something supporting the brake drum so that the whole arm doesn't drop when you remove the top shock nut )

Make the "hi-lo" as short as possible, drop the arm down and the 'hi-lo" and the rubber spring should come out.
The knuckle is located at the other end of the rod...towards the front of the car. The joint it's self will probably come out with the rod.
The cup will be left behind. You may be able to pull it out with pliers, but usually you end up having to break it into pieces.
I have good luck with a propane torch and melt it somewhat...it shrinks and comes out easy.
Lightly grease the outside of the new cup when it goes in.

#21 A362 TTU

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Posted 14 March 2012 - 11:11 PM

Wow thanks for the detail spitz. Will look for wear tomorrow.

So I just need this x2 if it is the offending part?
http://www.minispare...=0&tc=1#submenu

#22 tiger99

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 12:36 AM

Before putting the new knuckles in, check their seating in the radius arms. It has been known for the ball to wear right through the cup, and then right through the arm. If that happens when you are on the move, it is very bad, because the tyre may lock against the wheel arch as the suspension collapses.

Serious wear behind the cup means that the arm is scrap.

#23 Spitz

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 03:02 PM

Wow thanks for the detail spitz. Will look for wear tomorrow.

So I just need this x2 if it is the offending part?
http://www.minispare...=0&tc=1#submenu


That's correct. ( cost a little more than I thought they did....still good preventative maint. though )

If you're "inspecting" for wear....you'll already have things apart....so have the new ones on hand and replace would be my suggestion.
In the picture of the product in the link....it's the larger bit on the left that is the plastc(nylon) cup that may be worn through. This will leave the metal ball in contact with the metal cup of the trailing arm possibly causing wear. ( although I've never seen one bad enough to throw away...even parting out 45 year old MINIs )

#24 freshairmini

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 04:10 PM

Yeah they are more expensive those ones, My guess would be that they me be New Old Stock, hence the bigger price.

There are the £4 ones: http://bit.ly/xxYjBt

#25 A362 TTU

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 05:01 PM

Yeah they are more expensive those ones, My guess would be that they me be New Old Stock, hence the bigger price.

There are the £4 ones: http://bit.ly/xxYjBt


Does that include everything i need for £3.24 lol, cant go wrong for about a tenner if so!.?

Thanks again people :)

#26 craigr91

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Posted 18 March 2017 - 09:08 AM

Thread revival alert!

20170318_090350_zpsls97xwyb.jpg

Is this half of th eold rubber cone still connected to the subframe?

Thanks

#27 Spider

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Posted 18 March 2017 - 09:15 AM

Not normally!

It'll likely be rusted in place.



#28 craigr91

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Posted 18 March 2017 - 09:23 AM

So it needs breaking off?

I didn't strip the frame and after searching, looking a pics I thought that it was the metal part of the ripper cone

#29 THE ANORAK

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Posted 18 March 2017 - 10:04 AM

Yes it is. It should just pull out.

#30 craigr91

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Posted 18 March 2017 - 11:01 AM

Yeah it doesn't just pull haha, I'll work some magic later

Thanks




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