20 replies to this topic

[coopdog]

i am going to order parts for a rebuild soon, i am completly stripping the engine getting it rebored and putting a new head cam an carb on,
this is the list i have so far
what else do i need?
also do i need a different gasket kit for the gearbox or does this come with the engine gasket kit?

C-AEG580 - CAM FOLLOWER ISKY TYPE HI-GRADE TAPPET SET O...

GLP139 - OIL PUMP 1000CC A PLUS SLOT DRIVE

GUG701589CS - ENGINE BLOCK GASKET SET 998 A+ GENUINE UNIPAR...

AJM1250MS - HEAD GASKET SET 850/997/998/1100 ALL SMALL BO...

2A14 - PUSH ROD 850/998,11OO

C-AJJ3385 - MINISPARES MOLYBDENUM CROSS PIN DIFF

C-AHT54 - OIL PIPE HITECH CENTRAL PICKUP GEARBOX

GFE166 - OIL FILTER SPIN ON TYPE 1973 to 1996 (GFE443)

thank you
callum

[james.c94]

Bearings? Both mains and big ends

[coopdog]

Bearings? Both mains and big ends

yeah was looking but dont know what i need :/

theses the right ones?
http://minispares.co...id=34338&title=

and these
http://minispares.co...id=38342&title=

thats pre a plus^^^
cant find the right ones :/

and also what does it mean by +20 with the mains?

Edited by coopdog, 14 March 2012 - 11:16 PM.

[james.c94]

Bearings? Both mains and big ends

yeah was looking but dont know what i need :/

Grab the vernier and measure, it will be the standard size minus 0.010 or whatever, can't remember off the top of my head, but it will be the standard size or standard size minus what's been removed when it was reground. Or just measure up and them post on here and someone should be able to work it out :)

[coopdog]

Bearings? Both mains and big ends

yeah was looking but dont know what i need :/

Grab the vernier and measure, it will be the standard size minus 0.010 or whatever, can't remember off the top of my head, but it will be the standard size or standard size minus what's been removed when it was reground. Or just measure up and them post on here and someone should be able to work it out :)

measure what?
also willl the crank need to be reground or anything ?

[Cooperman]

You won't know whether the crank journals need re-grinding until you inspect it closely. Have a good look at both big-end and main journals and see if they appear scored. If they are it will need to be re-ground to the next size down. If in doubt take it to the machine shop which will be doing your machining and ask them for their opinion. Once you know if it needs a re-grind you'll know what size bearing shells you need.

Unless they are bent I can't see why you would need new push rods.

You'll also need new crankshaft thrust bearings, but whether you need thicker than standard ones will depend on the crankshaft end float when you do the trial build prior to final assembly. Use new standard thrusts for this, then measure the end float with a DTI. If the float is more than 0.005" you need +0.003 thrusts on one side of the centre main cap. If 0.008" or more you need +0.003" thrusts both sides to bring it back to 0.002" end float. The correct end float is important.

Unless you are going to be using the car for serious competition, a 998 does not normally need a cross-pin diff unit. Just fit a top-quality diff pin with new planet gears.

You will need a gasket set for engine to gearbox, plus a 'red' crankshaft seal.

I never use anything other than standard chilled-iron cam followers. Those Isky ones are expensive for a road going 998 engine. (just trying to save you some cash!).

What cam are you using and what head? Unless you are going to have a well gas-flowed head there is not much point in doing a cam change. Best cam for a road engine would be a Kent 266 or MG Metro.

Strongly advise a duplex timing chain and sprockets, timed in with offset woodruff key.

Make sure you measure and calculate the comp ratio and have the head skimmed to give what you want - I suggest about 10.2:1.

I hope this helps, but ask anything else you need to know.

All the best,

Peter

[Cooperman]

Sorry, just realised you are building a turbo 998.In that case a cross-pin diff might be a good idea in view of the extra torque. I still think you don't need Isky followers.
My comments about compression ratio should also be ignored as you'll need it quite low for a turbo. What boost pressue will you be using?

Sorry for the confusion,

Pete

[coopdog]

Sorry, just realised you are building a turbo 998.In that case a cross-pin diff might be a good idea in view of the extra torque. I still think you don't need Isky followers.
My comments about compression ratio should also be ignored as you'll need it quite low for a turbo. What boost pressue will you be using?

Sorry for the confusion,

Pete

i will be using like 6-12psi max,
you you think i should just buy normal size bearings but if they dont fit buy sligfhtly bigger?

http://minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35431&title=

an those ccam followers?
and how many do i need?

im just looking to buy as much as i can so i dont get held back when rebuilding :)

Edited by coopdog, 15 March 2012 - 10:58 AM.

[dklawson]

I am a bit confused why you would need new cam followers if you are not replacing the cam. Cams and their followers wear together. If you replace one, you generally replace the other. Are you changing the followers just to save weight or something? As for the number, there is one follower per valve... therefore (8).

You really should not buy parts like pistons, or bearings until you have disassembled the engine and had the components checked by a machine shop. There is no real advantage to buying the parts in advance if you have to return them and pay a restocking fee. The machine shop will tell you if the crank is useable and/or if it needs to be reground.

For budgetary purposes, plan on buying everything you can think of. If you are lucky, you won't need all of it and will have money left over in the budget.

[coopdog]

I am a bit confused why you would need new cam followers if you are not replacing the cam. Cams and their followers wear together. If you replace one, you generally replace the other. Are you changing the followers just to save weight or something? As for the number, there is one follower per valve... therefore (8).

You really should not buy parts like pistons, or bearings until you have disassembled the engine and had the components checked by a machine shop. There is no real advantage to buying the parts in advance if you have to return them and pay a restocking fee. The machine shop will tell you if the crank is useable and/or if it needs to be reground.

For budgetary purposes, plan on buying everything you can think of. If you are lucky, you won't need all of it and will have money left over in the budget.

but i am changing the cam :L
right so i should leave the bearings till lst and get them to do it?

[dklawson]

I would inspect the crank as Cooperman said and make your own measurements but I would not purchase any bearings (or other parts that require machined fits) until the machine shop tells you what they have found. They are likely to have better instruments for getting accurate measurements, they may find flaws that you were not looking for, and they will have the ability to inspect the crank for cracks.

Sorry... I saw in your list that you were buying followers but I missed the opening text where you said you were also installing a new cam.

[coopdog]

yeah the plan is buy all the gaskets and things,
and when im getting the boaring done get them to sort of the crank and bearings

[coopdog]

also what engine mounts shall i get?

[Turbo Phil]

Do you have a haynes manual ? If not I would strongly suggest getting one,. If you get one of the older ones it has the full gearbox stripdown/rebuild to. Have a good read through.
No offence, but you need to be fully aware of what you're undertaking doing a full rebuild, especially if you're planning on a dding a Turbo. It will need to be built right if you want it to last.
It's not just a matter of changing a few gaskets etc You need to check everything for wear & assess its condition, everthing must be built up to provide the correct clearances.
Good luck with your project.

[Cooperman]

As Turbo Phil says, if you are going to turbo-charge the engine, the calculations in respect of compression ratio and the choice of a suitable piston is critical.
To run at +12 psi you'll need dished pistons to get the CR low enough.
Make sure you fully understand every aspect of engine building and turbo engineering before spending too much cash.